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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:28 PM
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My winter wheels were sold by the dealer and seems to be made by DTD.

I think it's those wheels : https://www.quattrotires.com/wheel/d...u...88i-x44755

My tires are Toyo Observe G3-ICE 225/55R17. And I've got matching TPMS in there.

By the way, my tires are not studded, but that's an option.

I'm happy with this setup.


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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:59 PM
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My winter setup:

17"x7.5" MSW Type 86 Gunmetal wheels
225/55-17 97H Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 tires





To be totally honest, the Blizzaks are great in the snow/sleet/slush, but like most other winter tires, they're not the best on dry pavement, nor very quiet.

I got them because they were included with the wheels, but when I replace them, I'll probably go with the Michelin X-Ice Xi3. I had the Michelins on my last set of winter wheels/tires (for my '10 6). The snow traction IMO is just as good, but they feel more stable, secure, and fun-to-drive when the weather is dry, and aren't as loud either.

Edit: You will need TPMS sensors, but I've gone for years without them and I've had no problems with either the car or the wheels/tires. The light on the dash will be on, but I hardly noticed it after a while, and it had no adverse effect on the handling or other electronics. I check my tire pressure once per week religiously anyway, so I saved a few $$$ not getting the sensors...


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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 02:06 PM
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^^^ Pretty sweet looking too!

If he's on 225/55 then yeah, 255/50 will be just as good for you to stay on OEM.

I'll admit that the Blizzaks I run are pretty loud too, but I love their quality and have got a LOT of use out of them. I can't get myself to pay the extra ~$30 per tire to get Michelin.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:01 PM
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I really think you guys are going very wide... what with, as much as, 255 section width.

I think you would want to maintain the same overall tire height; 205's or 215's, for me, would be the most I would go.

Narrow winter tires are said to be the best. Of course dry-road performance, not as much. And you do have to look at load rating, too. Too much of a reduction versus your OEM all season tires.... may be problematic.

Life is a bunch of compromises, I guess.

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT View Post
I really think you guys are going very wide... what with, as much as, 255 section width.

I think you would want to maintain the same overall tire height; 205's or 215's, for me, would be the most I would go.
225/55 is the OEM size for the 17" tires, so I don't see any issue with that.

205/60 or 215/60 is also a good alternative size, since they both stay within the 2% tolerance for wheel diameter and circumference.

255/50 could work also (since it's also less than 2%), but IMO I'd go a narrower treadwidth with a taller sidewall, for a better ride and traction on snowy roads.


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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 05:21 PM
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Didnt read this entire thread, so this may have been mentioned already...mazda more reliable , boxer engine is prone to head gasket failures, and FWD is typically good enough for most people in snowy climates. If you must have awd, skip the AWD and get a 4wd with part time transfer case. Less maintenence and headaches

Subaru also had a huge recall due to weak valve springs, requiring half retarded dealer mechanics to tear the entire engine down and put it back together, often with less than desirable results

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 05:27 PM
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The Subaru boxster engine is burried in the engine compartment, no doubt between the frame rails. Access struck me, last time I looked in one, as poor.

The Subaru AWD system is reputedly one of the best out there. I agree, though, that part time 4wd is the simplest there is, and if it were not a Subaru, I would totally agree. I just don't think Subie's system has been problematic.

Not sure AWD or 4WD is really necessary or that much better. Tires are the key. FWD cars are typically very good in the snow.

CVT transmissions... don't like 'em. Mazda has thoroughly conventional 6 speed auto, if you do not opt for the 6MT in the Sport.

Subies sound gravelly, generally, because they tend to NOT have equal length exhaust headers. Me, I don't care for that sound. Some like it.

The Mazda is stellar for underhood access. If that intake manifold ever has to come off - NP.

Subie's with direct injection have a bit of a rep. for requiring walnut shell blasts at interval. When you consider how hard it is to get the manifolds off.. well, not fun in my estimation. Mazda's have zero rep for requiring intake valve decarbonning...

Before I bought my Mazda6 Sport, I looked at Subaru, decided I liked Mazda's simplicity more, along with a whole host of other attributes.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcoulombe View Post
My winter wheels were sold by the dealer and seems to be made by DTD.

I think it's those wheels : https://www.quattrotires.com/wheel/d...u...88i-x44755

My tires are Toyo Observe G3-ICE 225/55R17. And I've got matching TPMS in there.

By the way, my tires are not studded, but that's an option.

I'm happy with this setup.


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Thank you. So how does the TPMS work for programming when you swap wheels? Do you have to program it when you swap wheels? So in spring reprogram TPMS on "summer tires" and in the winter reprogram TPMS on "winter tires"? Thanks for the help
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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This group has been great, thank you so much. Another downside I just found on the Subaru's was the 2020 Legacy will be standard with auto start stop. I hate that more than just about anything on a car. The support you guys have shown and the help you have provided has been tremendous. I think I will wait about a month but so far its looking like 2019 Mazda6 Signature, Soul Red, Parchment interior and then finding a winter tire/wheel setup. As I mentioned before I always loved the Mazda6 since 2014 and I didn't choose it over my Legacy in '16 so I think I should go for it this time. Also my first car was a 2002 Mazda Millenia. What a great car that was, no major issues until 144k miles when I lost the timing belt pulley, but can't blame Mazda, that was 44k miles past their recommendation and it had a non interference motor so I didn't wreck anything. Just replaced the pulleys, belts and other things while it was torn apart and it was running great again. Looking forward to joining the Mazda family again in the near future and am happy to be a part of this forum.
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorsnwheels View Post
Thank you. So how does the TPMS work for programming when you swap wheels? Do you have to program it when you swap wheels? So in spring reprogram TPMS on "summer tires" and in the winter reprogram TPMS on "winter tires"? Thanks for the help
Super simple. From the manual : https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manu.../05120202.html
Quote:
When changing tires yourself

If you or someone else changes tires, you or someone else can also undertake the steps for the TPMS to complete the ID signal code registration.

After tires have been changed, switch the ignition ON, then back to ACC or OFF.

Wait for about 15 minutes.

After about 15 minutes, drive the vehicle at a speed of at least 25 km/h (16 mph) for 10 minutes and the tire pressure sensor ID signal code will be registered automatically.
I would not run my winter setup without TPMS. That's a personal preference. In the last 7 years, I had at least 3 or 4 punctures plus 2 valve stem failure due to corrosion (on the winter tires). Each time, the TPMS light went on. To me, that's peace of mind. But I understand that people survived without TPMS for many years...


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