What Tire Brand you have? - Page 43 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #421 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 07:10 AM
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Bridgestone 960 as 225-45-17 soft sidewall tire, much better with 40psi all around

I switched to Yokohoma Sdrives much happier with that choice more performance oriented


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post #422 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-09-2009, 02:44 AM
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Mine came stock with the Bridgestone Potenza RE050A, 215/45-18, treadware rating 140 ..... they didn't make it to 15K.

Being unemployed at the time, I decided to be practical and go to the complete opposite end of the treadware spectrum and had Discount Tire put on a set of Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum, 225/40-18, treadware rating 600 ..... haven't had them long enough to extrapolate how long they'll last, but I was immediately struck by how unbelievably quiet the Kumhos are at "normal" highway speeds of 70-80 MPH, and it wasn't as though the Bridgestones had been particularly noisy.

I'm sure these Kumhos wouldn't meet many people's performance standards (i.e., not soft enough), but I've been happy with them so far and, if the treadware ratings are accurate and indicative of the driving I do, then I probably won't have to buy a new set for another 50-60K.
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post #423 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-15-2009, 01:56 AM
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I bought it used with Continental ContiExtremeContact All-Season, 215/50-17, they're decent tires. I cant complain considering that here in Chicago the Winter sucked, now spring sucks...hopefully summer will be better.
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post #424 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 09:48 AM
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I just got a used 2004 6s and there's a mix of Yokes and Michelins on the car. In looking at the repair records, it looks like the tires were replaced at least twice, and there's 79k miles on the car. Never having owned a Mazda, and at least 30 years removed from driving a fwd car, it sounds like the 6 either chews up tires, or the previous owner was doing something wrong. Any thoughts/suggestions?
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post #425 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 10:28 AM
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QUOTE (tomsoni62 @ Apr 18 2009, 06:48 AM)
Quote:
I just got a used 2004 6s and there's a mix of Yokes and Michelins on the car. In looking at the repair records, it looks like the tires were replaced at least twice, and there's 79k miles on the car. Never having owned a Mazda, and at least 30 years removed from driving a fwd car, it sounds like the 6 either chews up tires, or the previous owner was doing something wrong. Any thoughts/suggestions?[/b]
Any FWD car will cause wear of the front tires at least twice as fast as it causes wear on the rears. Some Mazda6's have caster/camber/toe-in such that the outside edges of the front tires wear out even faster; some don't; but if you do not rotate your tires frequently, your fronts will wear much faster than your rears.

There are two schools of thought about how to live within those parameters. One school says that you rotate your tires frequently to keep the wear even. The other school says just let your fronts wear down to the indicator bars, then move the rear tires to the front and put a pair of new tires on the rear. (There is a third school that says always put new tires in front; that school is wrong, but it gets repeated a lot, anyway.) I subscribe to the wear-out-front, replace-rears school.

For safety, you always want to have the pair of tires at the rear to have: (a) the better dry grip -- usually inversely proportional to the Treadwear number on the sidewall, and (b) the deeper grooves/channels for water evacuation. This can cause a dilemma when the less-worn tires (deeper grooves) have the higher Treadwear rating (less grip). In that case, I usually recommend putting the tires with the better dry grip at the rear, on the theory that in most cases, the front tires will have "wiped" the pavement mostly dry fractions of a second before the rear tires reach the same spot of pavement.

The reason you want more grip at the rear is the same reason that most bicycles are set up so that the right -- in most people the stronger hand -- handbrake stops the rear wheel and the left (weaker) handbrake stops the front wheel. If you grip hard on only the front wheel brake of a bicycle, the front digs in and the rear is likely to rotate right over the top and throw the rider. If the front wheels of a car dig in while the rear wheels lack sufficient traction to bite, the rear end of the car is likely to come around in front of the stationary front wheels.

The final consideration in this calculation is mixing all-season and non-all-season tires. Generally, all-season tires have 20 to 40 percent less friction (stopping power) on wet pavement than non-all-season tires do, due to the chemical alterations to the tread compound of all-season tires to lessen their tendency to shed water: that means that they ride on a film of water whenever the pavement is wet. You need to take that into account, then, in deciding which tires to put at the front and which to put at the rear.
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post #426 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 11:08 AM
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they are about 230 per tire
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post #427 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 03:56 PM
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I currently have Cooper Zeon ZPT in the factory 18" size. When I replace them, I will probably do so with Yokohama Avid v4s' in 225/40/18.
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post #428 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 09:27 PM
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Took off the 215/55R16 Toyo CT01's on the Crown Victoria knockoffs on Sunday and mounted the 215/50R17 Hankook Ventus K104's that have been sitting in the attic on OE Crown Victoria rims, and drove off to Riyadh. I could hardly bear the noise on the way, and the combo weighs a ton. So on Monday I took off those, then stripped the 16 Chinese knockoffs that used to live under my Miata for the past few months off of the dreadful 225/50R16 Potenza 050 runflats, bought a brand new set of 215/55R16 SP Sport Maxx's, and drove back to Jeddah. Now I'm wondering why I'm even putting up with the Miata

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post #429 of 564 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 08:44 PM
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The Pilot HX MXM4s are gone. Can't see paying those eye gouging prices so I'm going with the Falken ZE912s over the Sumitomo HTR ZIII. Its the same damn tire by Sumitomo(says it right on the Falken) and its cheaper. Same performance for summer driving. Besides its always summer where in paradise.

Falken 912


ZIII

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post #430 of 564 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 02:02 PM
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QUOTE (Lavaboy @ Apr 30 2009, 05:44 PM)
Quote:
The Pilot HX MXM4s are gone. Can't see paying those eye gouging prices[/b]
The price the consumer pays for a replacement Pilot HX MXM4 is many tmes the price that Mazda pays for the tires it fits as OEM on the cars. Part of the pricing model of tire manufacturers is to sell tires to car makers as OEM fitment at cost or even below, on the theory that many car owners will blindly replace the tires when worn with the identical model. The tire maker then recoups from the replacement market the margin of profit that it discounted to the car maker. "Eye gouging" is one way to describe that practice.

QUOTE (Lavaboy @ Apr 30 2009, 05:44 PM)
Quote:
I'm going with the Falken ZE912s over the Sumitomo HTR ZIII. Its the same damn tire by Sumitomo(says it right on the Falken) and its cheaper. Same performance for summer driving. Besides its always summer where in paradise.[/b]
Your screen name is Lavaboy and you write of "paradise"; may we infer from that screen name and comment that most of your driving is in Hawaii? It rains there, right? Does not snow a lot, I suspect. You really have no need for light snow capability in that case, and need not live with the compromises it imposes. See this post (click). The all-season ZE912 and the non-all-season HTRZIII are not the same tire.
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