Brake issues, continued - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2018, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Brake issues, continued

I've owned my 2014 touring for about a year now. One of the first things I did was to replace the front brake pads and rotors due to a pretty severe shuddering under braking. I've read about people having this same shuddering even when the cars were newer at less than 30k miles.

So anyway, I've put just under 20,000 miles on the these new pads and rotors. Yesterday, the wife and I took a day trip to the mountains of NC and the brakes got a bit of a workout. Once they got warm I was getting shuddering again! This is with aftermarket Raybestos ceramic coated rotors. I'm not terribly hard on brakes, but I do bed them in when first installed. I am certain this shuddering isn't from pad material buildup or anything like that.

I am really curious what is causing our rotors to warp so easily? Fortunately, these brakes are super easy to work on and I can swap rotors quickly, but <20,000 miles is absurd. I'll go with some el cheapo rotors from RockAuto next and see how long they last.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:40 AM
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I have my 2016 for 41,000 miles. Changed the original pads at 25,000 miles, no warp on issues. I drive fast and brake hard. I did bed them in after I got the car. Replaced the pads with Wagner ceramics. No issues.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 03:29 AM
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 08:34 AM
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Yep. I've written on this here, and how to avoid it, several times.

In virtually EVERY case judder is NOT caused by a warped rotor. It's caused by improper brake bedding-in before heavy use, resulting in uneven transfer of pad material to the rotor.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I know these rotors aren't warped and it has to be uneven pad material deposits. However, I did bed these suckers in hard after installation. Same process I've done on all my cars and bikes since I started changing my own brakes about 20 years ago. Maybe I didn't let them cool properly afterwards, who knows. Never had this kind of shuddering after less than 20k miles on any car I've wrenched on myself though. So combined with the unusually high number of folks complaining about the same thing makes me wonder what else is going on here.


Regardless, rotors are cheap so it's easier to just replace them.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
Yep. I've written on this here, and how to avoid it, several times.

In virtually EVERY case judder is NOT caused by a warped rotor. It's caused by improper brake bedding-in before heavy use, resulting in uneven transfer of pad material to the rotor.
If it is due to improper bedding-in, why does it seem to happen at a higher frequency with this car than other cars?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, bit of a thread bump to my own thread. The last time I was in the brakes to replace rotors I noticed the caliper guide pins were awfully hard to remove, even though I always grease them properly. Just to eliminate them as a potential problem I ordered some replacement aftermarket pins and boots. I finally had some time this weekend to replace them and I discovered a possible culprit to the shuddering. The little rubber bushing on each of the lower pins had become enlarged and worked itself up to the base of the pin. You can see in the attached picture the old pin on the left compared to the new one on the right. The little rubber bushing should spin freely on the pin, but shouldn't dislodge itself easily. Again, the old pin was harder than it should have been to remove from the bracket.

I cleaned out as much of the original grease as I could from inside the bracket, liberally applied new caliper grease to the new pins until they created a bit of suction once installed. I also replaced the rubber boots as one of them had started leaking a bit of grease I noticed.

I haven't worked the brakes out hard, but here's hoping this is the simple fix to this issue.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 07:04 PM
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Always a good read, thanks.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
Always a good read, thanks.
Yes, a nice article to read. Now I understand what happened a few years ago with my CR-V 98. I "committed the mistake" of MYTH # 6.

It is only now that I'm learning about cars. So now, I'm concerned with the brakes. When I purchased the 6, I just drove it home and used it like anyone uses it. Then there is that sloping road that until I reach the corner that I'll brake hard. I felt the car shuddered. Later, someone told me it's the ABS that I felt. I think the 1st generation of CR-V doesn't have ABS and coming from that old car, I know very little about ABS.

I just used the 6 without understanding brake bedding. Then after 3 months, I participated in a race.

My concern now is about bedding which I think I didn't do. Are these brakes properly bedded from factory?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasrider View Post
Ok, bit of a thread bump to my own thread. The last time I was in the brakes to replace rotors I noticed the caliper guide pins were awfully hard to remove, even though I always grease them properly. Just to eliminate them as a potential problem I ordered some replacement aftermarket pins and boots. I finally had some time this weekend to replace them and I discovered a possible culprit to the shuddering. The little rubber bushing on each of the lower pins had become enlarged and worked itself up to the base of the pin. You can see in the attached picture the old pin on the left compared to the new one on the right. The little rubber bushing should spin freely on the pin, but shouldn't dislodge itself easily. Again, the old pin was harder than it should have been to remove from the bracket.

I cleaned out as much of the original grease as I could from inside the bracket, liberally applied new caliper grease to the new pins until they created a bit of suction once installed. I also replaced the rubber boots as one of them had started leaking a bit of grease I noticed.

I haven't worked the brakes out hard, but here's hoping this is the simple fix to this issue.
Oh that would do it; you'd get dragging for sure and with that will come problems, and likely rather quickly too.

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Are these brakes properly bedded from factory?
No.
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