subframe/front front control arm bolt issues - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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subframe/front front control arm bolt issues

I cant remove the bolt that connects the driver side front lower control arm bushing to the subframe (threads into the subframe - bolt is normally blocked by the transmission pan). The bolt spins freely, making it so I can neither tighten nor loosen it, which means I cant actually remove the the control arm. This is the second time it has happened to me. Previously, I ended up swapping the whole subframe (and a new control arm). Now its time to replace said control arms and what do you know, its happened again.

I'm just curious if anyone else has experienced the same. I made sure to torque the bolt to the specs in the Mazda repair manual when I installed it so I'm not sure what the problem is.

See images below to get an idea of what I'm talking about. what are my options to remove the bolts short of cutting into the frame?



Last edited by Bermuda; 06-25-2018 at 01:19 AM. Reason: reworded
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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bumping this since I've added pictures.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 01:36 AM
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Can you access the nut through one of the holes in the subframe? If not you may have to cut your own access holes. Hopefully the nut has flats or a hex shape so you can hold it. That's about the only way to get at it that I can think of. Even cutting or drilling a large enough hole, then tack welding the nut in place may work.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 11:13 AM
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Cut it open and weld the nuts and then weld the holes back up. Only way I can think of doing it.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bermuda View Post
I cant remove the bolt that connects the driver side front lower control arm bushing to the subframe (threads into the subframe - bolt is normally blocked by the transmission pan). The bolt spins freely, making it so I can neither tighten nor loosen it, which means I cant actually remove the the control arm. This is the second time it has happened to me. Previously, I ended up swapping the whole subframe (and a new control arm). Now its time to replace said control arms and what do you know, its happened again.

I'm just curious if anyone else has experienced the same. I made sure to torque the bolt to the specs in the Mazda repair manual when I installed it so I'm not sure what the problem is.

See images below to get an idea of what I'm talking about. what are my options to remove the bolts short of cutting into the frame?


I can't help you, but maybe you can help me. I need to replace the subframe on a 2006 mazda6. You say you've done it before, is it an easy thing to do? can i do it with the car on ramps? any tips?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 02:09 AM
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I have seen this happen with another user (possibly the same bolt)
He used a rotary tool to open access and was able to tighten with a wrench. I believe he left access open.


Sorry mate. Should be less work than swapping the whole sub assembly however.


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 08:40 AM
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This is a fairly-common problem with multiple vehicles; the blind nut inside is sometimes poorly-welded, and sometimes it's a corrosion problem that winds up locking things up.

If it's already spinning on you then the only real option is to use a rotary tool to get access, but beware that once you've done that you've also weakened the subframe materially. If you live in an inspection area (physical inspection) they will likely fail the car for this, although even if you don't you'd be wise to weld the access point back closed when you're done to do what you can to repair the structural deficiency.

A failure of the subframe while you're driving is EXTREMELY dangerous (you're very likely to lose control of the car catastrophically) so making an access hole point is not a risk-free endeavor by any means.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 09:57 PM
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I would hardly worry about any danger, would take a LONG time to rot out, even in salt country.


HOWEVER, there is no logical reason not to weld it closed, in fact, I would personally never cut a hole in any subframe or unibody structure without repairing it by welding it. It would be very cheap to have someone weld it or if you are like me, I have a little MIG welder that would do the job and I am definitely not to be considered a skilled welder by any means.


This is an easy fix, cut a hole and weld it up when you are done. Ask any mechanics about Neons/PT Cruisers and replacing the control arm bushings. I got so good at them all I did was use a hole saw and stick the tip of my MIG in and booger that nut back to the body, lol. I could do them in less than an hour, both sides. I was a used car dealer's mechanic, he sold far too many of those damn things...

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