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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:06 PM
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Finally installed both the Speedline rear cross floor bar and the Steeda front shock tower brace. Even on the softer sprung Mercury Milan it is noticeably more solid, decreases "felt" roll a bit, but more important to me is that is helps the car take and recover from bumps better - not as big a difference as on my Mazda6 I had, but that was sprung waaay stiffer with a bigger rear sway bar. I think I feel more jittery small movements that don't flex the body shell though, which is interesting, but I'd chalk that up to a suspension that may not be perfectly aligned and the tires grabbing a little bit and that movement not getting eaten up by the bushings - I'd guess that "slop" used to just pass through the body shell flexing, that or I notice it more as other larger movements are quelled. Altogether glad I did them both and I wasn't out much at around $160 - if I get rid of the Milan as well I know a few CD3 owners or could sell them on here, so I wasn't concerned about "getting my money's worth".

To @bluedevil6 - if you can swing it, I would look at doing all 3 braces we talked about; the strut tower brace, H-brace, and rear cross floor brace. Another option instead of the H-brace would be Ultra Racing's front lower member brace - it connects to one of the points the H-brace does, but the other side connects further down the floorpan. Costs way more though. If you plan on keeping the car for a while they are definitely all worth, the sooner you do mods the longer you get to enjoy them!

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:18 PM
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@Sydtron Thanks for the update glad to hear it really does make a difference. I do plan on doing all of them eventually I have my "want" purchases planned as follows lowering springs (hopefully ordering as soon as Eibach is open for orders again), H brace, strut tower bar, floor bar, upgraded front/rear sway bars

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Still Want lowering springs, sway bars, subframe brace, strut tower brace
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bluedevil6 View Post
@Sydtron Thanks for the update glad to hear it really does make a difference. I do plan on doing all of them eventually I have my "want" purchases planned as follows lowering springs (hopefully ordering as soon as Eibach is open for orders again), H brace, strut tower bar, floor bar, upgraded front/rear sway bars

Sweet, this is going to be great!


Can I rearrange your list according to my impressions on "bang-for-buck", is that too presumptuous?

Baseline = Fix all bad suspension bushings.

1st = Springs
2nd = Sway bars
3rd = F. Sub-frame Brace
4th = R. Floor Bar
5th = F. Tower Brace


I would love more stiffness, but aside from the rear components available from Cusco and AutoEXE there is nothing else.

I was thinking that this may be next step (correct application not pictured)

not really.


I would like a floor bar like I had in my Corolla wagon or what is available for the Mk 3.



I am skeptical if this dies much for the Mk 3 Mazda 6 (or my Mk.1 for that matter...) but the Corolla... that thing was the "flexy-flyer"!
When I upgraded the 11 mm rear sway bar (RSB) to a 18-20-22 mm Whiteline RSB it was incredible.... for a month or so.

The vehicle developed so much flex it popped out all the trim panels rivets in the rear.
Here is is in mostly stock condition. (Do you see a trend)?
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2004 6s Wagon 3.0, 5-speed ATX, Performance White (A2N)
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 12:50 AM
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Here is is in mostly stock condition. (Do you see a trend)?
@DrFeelGood somehow I always pictured your Corolla as much older than that.

Alex
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 12:57 AM
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@DrFeelGood all of the front suspension is in/will be in optimal shape I will be doing the passenger control arms when I take care of the frame as i already have them and it will be the optimal time to do the job. The rear is in decent shape shocks are new one upper arm is new the sway bar bushings and links are in great shape admittedly though some of the rear might not be in “top” shape but all is tight and last time I was under there none of the bushings showed any significant wear. I do like your order better it makes a little more sense to order by “bang for buck”.

I’m starting to think someone has a thing for wagons lol it is understandable my last two cars now have been hatchbacks and I love that I can barrel into corners and outrun most vehicles in a straight line as well as fold down the seats and haul just about anything I need to, the wagons even bigger, but doesn’t weigh too much more, so it makes even more sense.


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Mods tinted windows, trans cooler, triple gauge dash pod, EGR tube delete, TB coolant bypass, gutted exhaust w/ MagnaFlow muffler
Still Want lowering springs, sway bars, subframe brace, strut tower brace
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bluedevil6 View Post
I love that I can barrel into corners and outrun most vehicles in a straight line as well as fold down the seats and haul just about anything I need to, the wagons even bigger, but doesn’t weigh too much more, so it makes even more sense.
This is exactly why I'm a big fan of the wagon platform. It drives like a sedan, hauls like an SUV, and looks like a million bucks! You get it all: form and function.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:33 PM
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Having had a few more days driving around the Milan with the front & rear bars, they have definitely changed the character of the chassis response. Car feels more locked down with much less undamped "wallow", but it got a little dartier and little crashy - it was more of a comfy cruiser before. It feels to me like the suspension was tuned really well with the body shell, but now the loads and load paths have changed and it feels like the floorpan is not keeping up with the rest of the car. I can't say I felt this when I did the same mods to my 6 - it had already stiffer springs, Koni FSD shocks, and a stiffer rear anti-roll bar added when I did those though and was already feeling flexy through the body. The Koni FSD's digressive damping worked better the stiffer you made the body too, so it's a bit apples to oranges to directly compare. I'd have to drive it on some poor highway (ie I-96 between Lansing and Grand Rapids with its concrete wobble and ) to really suss out the details, but I'd definitely say I traded some comfort for a more direct driving experience. To contrast, my 6 got more comfortable and easier to control and read at the limit.

Anyway, food for thought. I'd change Dr's order to the following, skipping an upgraded front sway altogether (for traction and balance reasons):

1st: Rear floor cross bar (since you have a hatch)
2nd: Rear sway bar (probably wouldn't go any higher than Steeda's 22.5mm bar, unless you want to really change the handling balance and introduce some harshness)
3rd: Front H-brace or Ultra Racing front member brace
4th: Front shock tower brace
5th: Springs and shocks (or coilovers; regardless do at the same time along with any other control arm and busing changes).
6th: Autoexe 4 member brace set

and the super secret step:

7th: track down a used Steeda Fusion front subframe x-brace (should work on your '07, didn't on the '03-'05). Good luck!

Additionally I would get some thick anti-corrosion spray and spray down the underside after a good cleaning, both to keep the rust away and to reduce some noise. Also, just buy a bunch of Dynamat and start putting it everywhere under the carpet in the car - I'd definitely do this to my 6 if I still had it and it was my DD.
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Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/45 R17 tires (Winter Bridgestone Blizzak WS-70 205/60R16); Racing Beat springs; Koni FSD dampers; Steeda 22.5mm rear sway bar; SURE RDS-06 Rear Brace Bar; Steeda Fusion Strut Tower Brace (w/harness carrier bend-mod
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