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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 10:39 AM
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Aahhh, very clever sir. I was trying to think of a safe way to spread the bracket arms. That seems like the perfect method. I'll be (attempting) to install them tonight. My mechanic said the links lower bushing was 1/8" too wide. I realized late last night that they never compressed the sides of the bushings. I used a C-Clamp and quickly compressed the sides....I found my 1/8" of compression. :-)

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Totally capable of daily driver use!

No NVH or anything, and they don't use spherical rod ends like the AWR EL's do so I expect that these will not only be quieter but will last quite a bit longer too.

Ive got the rears installed already, about 1/4 inch longer than stock, and they fit better than the Racing Beat EL's that I was using, and have more busing area to absorb NVH than the RB's do.

Looking forward to installing the fronts.


Couple pics of the rears-



I didn't know these existed so I went with AWR's, but only the fronts. I'm yet to replace the rears...

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-07-2015, 07:12 AM
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Do these end links work on a MS6?


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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-07-2015, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 23TDuratecMerkur View Post
Do these end links work on a MS6?

Yes.
And with no real malice I feel compelled to add "obviously"....

I'm the one who started this post about installing the parts on my car, and it's in the Speed6 section.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-07-2015, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Yes.
And with no real malice I feel compelled to add "obviously"....

I'm the one who started this post about installing the parts on my car, and it's in the Speed6 section.

No worries.I'm thick skinned. I'd have said the same thing.

Early morning post, should have read the section.


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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 01:59 PM
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@TiGraySpeed6 did you ever cut the hole a bit larger in the lca so that you could fit the Steeda endlink on the stiffer setting? I've been noticing some creaking sounds and upon inspection, my oem end link is essentially destroyed on the driver side. Was considering going with an adjustable end link and both the steeda and awr look incredibly beefy compared to stock

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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I did open up the rear LCA's to better allow the stiff setting on the WhiteLine RSB. Used a small diameter grinding wheel (read that as "worn out") to open up the side towards the front of the car, only takes a few minutes per side once you drop the arm & remove the spring. Remember to spray a touch of black paint on the bare metal to prevent rust.


In other news- the Steeda links are off the car now. As a matter of fact they only lasted about a year / ~14,000 miles. I'm back on stock fronts and RacingBeat rears.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 12:14 AM
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Nice! I've been planning on checking a shop's work on my coilover install anyway so grinding out the lca would be a good time to get it out of the way as well. The spray is sound advice. I'll even go a step further and apply a little naval jelly to try and rid them of rust while I'm at it (damn Jersey winters lol)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
In other news- the Steeda links are off the car now. As a matter of fact they only lasted about a year / ~14,000 miles. I'm back on stock fronts and RacingBeat rears.
Well that's disappointing. Why did you decide to go with the racing beat instead of a different adjustable end link? I've been searching online for the best way to optimize a rear sway and I've read that the bar should be parallel to the ground with no preload on either side. The stock end links definitely applied some sort of load to the bar that I imagine aided in their demise.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Rear end links- few things here-

The upper part of the steeda is good enough. No real problems there.

The lower portion won't really allow the link enough movement to lean far enough to connect to the stiff mount on the WL RSB. Remember, it's got to lean so much that you're looking at modifying the LCA, and the bushing design with it's large washer style outers just won't let that happen properly. To correct it you need to swap the lowers with Spherical Rod Ends like AWR uses. Problem with SRE's is that they're loud and short lived. You can get rear end links from AWR ready to install but expensive, or build your own for much less from someplace like Midwest Controls, but will need to make your own spacers for the lower mount- the SRE's aren't wide enough so need two spacers each to center and support them.

FWIW, you can build your own, both front and rear, with parts from Midwest Controls. They carry the exact same pieces that Steeda uses, so if you wanted to put the extra effort in you can make a set and not need to pay for the Steeda name.

As for length, you can't really make them any shorter or they will contact the LCA, and making em longer, if you're lowered, will only increase the problem you want to fix.

RacingBeat rear end links are sturdy, inexpensive and functional enough to work.


As for the steeda fronts, stock front end length is same as the steeda at full short adjustment. The ball joint ends wore very fast and started knocking over any little bump. I tossed my 100,000+ mile stockers back on just to test, and haven't taken them back off yet...

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 03:33 PM
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Thank you for taking the time explain in such a thorough manner This is exactly the information I've been searching for in regards to our car. It seems like any modification we want to do comes at a compromise and this is certainly no exception. I was perfectly fine with cutting the lca but if it's as you explained, the steeda doesn't allow you to run the stiff setting on a lowered car properly and SREs wear out fairly quickly, I don't really see a point in going through all the trouble unless it was a dedicated track car...which it isn't....at the moment ...lol

I checked out Midwest controls and I wouldn't even know where to begin with all of those options haha. After doing some research on nonadjustable endlinks i.e. Stock, Moog and RacingBeat, I feel like the Racingbeat looks like the best option, especially with your endorsement haha. Thanks again TiGray for sticking with the community and sharing your experiences. Much appreciated!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Rear end links- few things here-

The upper part of the steeda is good enough. No real problems there.

The lower portion won't really allow the link enough movement to lean far enough to connect to the stiff mount on the WL RSB. Remember, it's got to lean so much that you're looking at modifying the LCA, and the bushing design with it's large washer style outers just won't let that happen properly. To correct it you need to swap the lowers with Spherical Rod Ends like AWR uses. Problem with SRE's is that they're loud and short lived. You can get rear end links from AWR ready to install but expensive, or build your own for much less from someplace like Midwest Controls, but will need to make your own spacers for the lower mount- the SRE's aren't wide enough so need two spacers each to center and support them.

As for length, you can't really make them any shorter or they will contact the LCA, and making em longer, if you're lowered, will only increase the problem you want to fix.

RacingBeat rear end links are sturdy, inexpensive and functional enough to work.

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