I did use the LuK TOB, but not the pilot bearing. The clutch went in with my long block which had a pilot bearing already installed. Gotta love a shiny new long block!
What FW are you thinking about? I'm really fond of the faster reacting Fidanza, but I hear Rock Auto has the stock dual mass unit for a really good price- I think it was $550ish, but am not positive on that number- was a darn sight less than the dealer for sure.
Wouldn't hurt to do the rear main seal while your that deep in. The clutch fork is a 50/50 thing for me- stock clutch you probably won't need it. I didn't swap my fork, nor did we swap the one in the car shown in the first post of this thread. If you were going for anything heavier- ACT or anything upgraded from the LuK, I would swap the fork without question. It's just a basic stamped steel part, and much like our original HPFP, just good enough for stock use. So, 50/50, up to you totally.
Speaking of, you may want to take the opportunity to reseal your PTO too. There are several seals for the PTO but the only one I've ever needed to replace is on the passenger side between the spacer tube and the PTO. If you have the extra few dollars to spare a set of CNC'd bearing end caps are a nice upgrade while you've got the PTO out and split open, and they're stupid easy to install. Getting there is the hard part
- Stainless braided clutch line is a great idea, and a fine time to flush in fresh fluid for both brakes and clutch.
- You shouldn't need to replace either the clutch master or slave cylinders, but call around and learn about price and availability just so you're aware if things go sideways.
- Pick up a new set of stock FW bolts- they shouldn't be reused.
- Loctite, both blue & red- you really really don't want the fw or clutch bolts backing out
- Loctite gray gasket stuff for the PTO, and for the oil pan if you do the RMS.
Save the box top from the clutch, and as you remove the bolts from the trans & PTO punch em through the cardboard to remember where and from which direction they go back. Some go from the drivers side, some from the passenger side, and I swear no two are the same damn length...
Do have a trans jack- borrowed, rented, stolen or even buy one. I know a few who have muscled the trans out and in, but I honestly couldn't imagine trying to do that without the trans jack. Personally I wouldn't even try without one- bitch be heavy!
All told we spent three slow and short days doing the clutch/FW, the rear main and resealing the PTO & installing the end caps in the PTO- about 20 actual work hours. Of that, I think about 12 was taking everything apart, about 2 installing new stuff, and the remainder reassembling all the bit.