Possible slipping clutch - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Possible slipping clutch

I've read the symptoms of slipping clutch but I'm not sure I know if that is what my problem is. It's a 2007 MS6 with 70k miles on it. The issue is when I am in 5th or 6th gear and get on the gas not even too hard, the car will rev up high, then catch, and accelerate normally. I read to never go WOT in 5th or 6th gear and I never have but this just under somewhat harder acceleration. It doesn't happen in any of the other gears really. So what I'm wondering is if your clutch can be slipping in just a few gears and not all of them. Thanks for reading this lengthy post.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2014, 12:26 AM
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Certainly sounds like the clutch starting to go.

5th and 6th gear will have the highest loads, and accelerating in those high gears is a classic test for worn clutch. Time to gut check your credit cards and decide just how mechanically competent you are...

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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any recommendations for clutches then?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 08:51 AM
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A Luk clutch with either an OEM or Fidanza flywheel would be a wise choice. Great drive-ability and reliability.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 09:22 AM
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Same answer from me- I run what I affectionately refer to as the Lucky Dog clutch combo- Luk + Fidanza

Luk manufactures the stock clutch and pressure plate, so when you see the luk clutch referenced it's actually the stock clutch, just purchased anyplace BUT the Mazda dealer so that the price is significantly more reasonable (cheaper). The Luk clutch is used in a variety of things so feel free to shop around for the lowest price you can find- mine came from ebay - you're searching for a Luk 10-064

The stock FW is a dual mass unit, and most places will not resurface a DM FW. Some do, but they are few & far between. Also, the springs that allow the DM to function tend to wear out starting around the mileage you're at now, and in my opinion you would be asking for trouble to continue using your stock original FW even if you can get it resurfaced. Replacement DM FW will only come from Mazda, and is very expensive- IIRC it's priced around $1100 from your local Mazda parts counter, and that's only the FW.

Considering that you can get an entirely new clutch & FW setup for significantly less than the cost of just a new Mazda DM FW you can see why changing to a different FW is a very popular option. Fidanza is by far the most popular option when collecting your own components separately. There are, however, a few other options from ACT and others- but the Luk is the only one that will give you the stock pedal feel.

So, common options-
Luk Clutch- cheapest you can find, but ballpark ~$250
Fidanza FW - ~$340

You can shop Speed 3 clutch stuff too- it's the same as the 6 and sometimes easier to find.
Act, for normal street driving you want to stay away from the 6 puck & other fancy ones, and go with the Street kit. Lots of folks will say they like their 6 puck and that it's very streetable, but it's a short lived clutch, lasting often only around 20,000 miles.

Better to look at this for street daily driving.
ACT HD Performance Street Clutch Kit (Mazdaspeed 3/6 2006-2011) - Modern Automotive Performance


If you launch or drag often, or otherwise have issues with the stock clamping power then by all means consider a heavier duty clutch like the 6 puck.

My power levels vary between 325 and almost 400 hp, and the Luk has been good for me, but I'm a soft touch on clutches, always have been, and I don't launch all that often and almost never repeatedly. Random hustle from a stoplight and autocrossing is about it for me.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 02:41 PM
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I have a 2006 Mazda Speed6 GT. Almost always with a slipping clutch there is a burning smell ( like an industrial fiber smell burning). It may be an adjustment. You must make sure all the pressure is off the linkage rod. Old posts tell how to do this when members were trying to eliminate the low clutch engagement, that came when the cars were new. This is just a thought. There has been technical bulletins and free replacement on the clutches before , but that usually ends at 60k miles. If you are good friends with a dealer and had lots of service there---- they may help you --- they have been very good to me. Stick with the stock set up unless you are racing or have heavy duty use, it lasted 70k miles. thanks Oldvet
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Same answer from me- I run what I affectionately refer to as the Lucky Dog clutch combo- Luk + Fidanza

Luk manufactures the stock clutch and pressure plate, so when you see the luk clutch referenced it's actually the stock clutch, just purchased anyplace BUT the Mazda dealer so that the price is significantly more reasonable (cheaper). The Luk clutch is used in a variety of things so feel free to shop around for the lowest price you can find- mine came from ebay - you're searching for a Luk 10-064

The stock FW is a dual mass unit, and most places will not resurface a DM FW. Some do, but they are few & far between. Also, the springs that allow the DM to function tend to wear out starting around the mileage you're at now, and in my opinion you would be asking for trouble to continue using your stock original FW even if you can get it resurfaced. Replacement DM FW will only come from Mazda, and is very expensive- IIRC it's priced around $1100 from your local Mazda parts counter, and that's only the FW.

Considering that you can get an entirely new clutch & FW setup for significantly less than the cost of just a new Mazda DM FW you can see why changing to a different FW is a very popular option. Fidanza is by far the most popular option when collecting your own components separately. There are, however, a few other options from ACT and others- but the Luk is the only one that will give you the stock pedal feel.

So, common options-
Luk Clutch- cheapest you can find, but ballpark ~$250
Fidanza FW - ~$340

You can shop Speed 3 clutch stuff too- it's the same as the 6 and sometimes easier to find.
Act, for normal street driving you want to stay away from the 6 puck & other fancy ones, and go with the Street kit. Lots of folks will say they like their 6 puck and that it's very streetable, but it's a short lived clutch, lasting often only around 20,000 miles.

Better to look at this for street daily driving.
ACT HD Performance Street Clutch Kit (Mazdaspeed 3/6 2006-2011) - Modern Automotive Performance


If you launch or drag often, or otherwise have issues with the stock clamping power then by all means consider a heavier duty clutch like the 6 puck.

My power levels vary between 325 and almost 400 hp, and the Luk has been good for me, but I'm a soft touch on clutches, always have been, and I don't launch all that often and almost never repeatedly. Random hustle from a stoplight and autocrossing is about it for me.

I just bought this clutch: Luk 10 064 New Clutch Set | eBay

Which seems to be the Luk 10-064 you recommended. So I guess I just need to find a Fidanza FW. Do you know where you got yours if it was online?

Also, thank you so much. You have been immensely helpful. I've been looking around and it was nice to have all that information compiled into one post.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 07:54 PM
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Great price on that clutch! That is indeed the correct one

I got my Fidanza here-
Fidanza Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel (Mazdaspeed 3/6) - Modern Automotive Performance

You want to be aware that single mass FW's will chatter a bit from time to time. Happens at idle with foot off the clutch pedal which is when the engine pulses are transmitted through the clutch to the gears in the trans. It's the gears you hear chattering. The DM will absorb the pulses. I think the lighter FW is way very much better to drive so the minor chatter doesn't bother me at all, but it's been know to bother others.

You can google for single mass fw chatter and see plenty on conversation about the topic.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 08:16 AM
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I would have verified the hydraulic circuit was working as it should, before I bought any parts to replace a clutch!


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHeartGroceries View Post
I would have verified the hydraulic circuit was working as it should, before I bought any parts to replace a clutch!
How would I do that? Thanks!
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