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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical Issues.. *sigh*

I recently went to did stupid things with a volt-meter and my radio. I was probin' the Aux(Tape) Connector and it sparked.. Now, nothing works.. No lights (Including dome), No start, No door locks, its D...E..A..D..

First things first, I check the 120A Main fuse.. Looks fine, tested fine with the multi-meter.. The main fuse block appears to be getting power (reading 12.3v in the open blade-fuse ports). The All-Data DVD schematics are, frankly, gibberish to me..

Thinking a fusable link/inline, but I have no idea WHERE to start looking.. Also, how in the hell does one get the fuse block out of the housing???! I release the tabs and try and pull up and it hangs on the harness that enters the block directly below the 120A fuse.. There is no slack.. I even removed the air-box and intake, bolts to the fuse-block itself, etc to see if I can lean it forward to get some slack.. Nada..

Help!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 12:36 AM
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I cant remember right off, but I think there is another smaller fuse block under the steering wheel. I havent looked under there in so long I cant remember what exactly is under there.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 08:26 AM
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i would check every fuse in both fuse boxes. its also a PITA to remove the engine fusebox and you are on the right track you just need to pull a little more. just be careful that you dont pull out any of the fuse block wire connections underneath cause you will have a hell of a time putting them back.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 08:49 AM
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Once you un-clip the tabs & lift up a bit, there are also two bolts under the fuse box that need to be removed before you can lift the underhood fuse box.

That said, I doubt that is where the problem lies-

Grab your meter & start looking at the interior fuse panel in the drivers side footwell kick panel.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 07:35 PM
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its a stupid small fuse in the driver's seat area. look to the left compartment.

I've blown that fuse like 3 times. now i just carry a nice complement of extra fuses in the car just in case.

before anyone calls me an idiot for not fixing the problem, rather than patching a bandaid -- I do a LOT of electrical stuff and experimental things in my car. I blow it because i short it out, not because i'm overloading it. I dont like disconnecting the battery :\


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-11-2010, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p057 View Post
its a stupid small fuse in the driver's seat area. look to the left compartment.

I've blown that fuse like 3 times. now i just carry a nice complement of extra fuses in the car just in case.

before anyone calls me an idiot for not fixing the problem, rather than patching a bandaid -- I do a LOT of electrical stuff and experimental things in my car. I blow it because i short it out, not because i'm overloading it. I dont like disconnecting the battery :\


Remember kids, don't be a dumbbutt like me.
Ding! Ding! Ding!

Ok.. This whole ordeal was WAAAY more than it ever should have been..

You were right, it was the 15A ROOM Fuse.. I've dealt with this lil barstid before on other cars, but it's NEVER controlled so much as on them..

It does not only the Radio, Dome, Dash, etc.. It also controls (or at least leads into) the Doors, windows, and ADVANCED KEY..

I did, after many hours of cursing, get the fuse block out to change the 120A main (I mangles it but good before I found it was bolted down), and as an aside, the fuse block itself isn't bolted to anything.. its the 4 tabs. HOWEVER.. The block does come apart in the middle (once you find the releases) and there is almost ZERO play in the harness..

I was completely thrown by the fact that 1) I have Advanced Key and 2) Nothing worked.. I figured the Main fuse blew, but I didn't see any damage to it.. I was getting readings, but the schematics show a parrelle circuit for the brakes/hazards that bypass the 120A main. I was forced to wonder if the 12v I was reading at the fuse block wasn't somehow back-channeling it way thru the ciruit and giving me false readings..

In the end, I had the Airbox out, fuseblock out, Batt out.. $4 for the 120A fuse. because of a 15A blade-fuse inside..

in my defense, I do have to say that the car wouldn't even turn over (no crank) because the advance key/immobilizer wasn't working.. that's what led me to believe it was a system-wide electrical failure.. Once I got a bright moment and tried my aux key.. yah.. worked.. FML..

Thanks again to all who posted in the thread with ideas and tips.. Very much appreciated.. I'd have done something wrong if I had the car towed to the dealer and $90/hr shop time for a 10 cent fuse..
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grommish View Post
Ding! Ding! Ding!







I did, after many hours of cursing, get the fuse block out to change the 120A main (I mangles it but good before I found it was bolted down), and as an aside, the fuse block itself isn't bolted to anything.. its the 4 tabs. HOWEVER.. The block does come apart in the middle (once you find the releases) and there is almost ZERO play in the harness
Does anybody know where these mysterious releases are located and what exactly has to be done to release them?
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