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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Mazda Pre-Paid Maintenance Plans for 2018 Mazda 6

My dealer offers me a 3yr pre-paid maintenance plan for my 2018 Mazda 6 for $590.
Looks like the typical scheduled maintenance is very 6 months for an oil and filter change. I will not be doing the maintenance on this myself and will be taking into the dealership anyways. But still trying to get a feel for whether the price is right.
I’ve not owned a Mazda so don’t know what the regular price for a 7k or 15k maintenance would be.
Any help or input would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 04:26 PM
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$600 for three years of oil changes at six month intervals? Is he smoking crack?

This is the sort of reason that I do my own; an oil change is a literal 15 minute job, the oil is $23 and the filter (from Mazda, no less!) is about $5 bought four at a time (four-for-three deal at the local stealer.)

So I spend under $30 per oil change, which would be $60/year. That's $180 and about an hour and a half of my time over that period. Of course I wind up needing far more than TWO changes in a year but that's because of how much I drive.

How much is the hour and a half worth? Not $420! And remember, if you take it to them (1) it's five times as long since the paperwork takes longer than the oil change does and (2) you're sitting in their waiting room.

If you can actually get in and out at the dealer for their "routine maintenance" in an hour you're doing well and the TIME is the big issue for me.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 04:48 PM
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Depends on your dealer, but with my Mazda3, it was about $75 for Synthetic oil. Did that about every 7k miles and I cover roughly 22,000+ miles/year. So that was $225 year for 3 oil changes each year. So we'll just say 9 oil changes over a 3 year time frame = $675.

I couldn't get by with just 2 oil changes/year because of my mileage. But if you cover less than 15k miles/year, then every 6 months would make sense, but I still feel like you're paying more than you need to.

Sidenote: does this maintenance plan use Synthetic Oil or Conventional Oil?

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 07:27 AM
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There is no such thing as 0w20 "conventional" oil (the grade required doesn't work with dino base stock.)
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
There is no such thing as 0w20 "conventional" oil (the grade required doesn't work with dino base stock.)
That is the oil requirement only for the nonturbo 2.5, on the 2.5T models, 5w30 is required and those do come as regular dino oil.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 03:02 PM
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Interesting that the 2.5 T requires 5W-30. Better high temp protection given turbo's being hard (hotter running temps in turbo housing) on the oil. Also, in Mexico the 2.5 naturally aspirated is ok with 5W-30. I wonder if the critical clearances on all of these engines are actually the same. I say this / question this 'cuz if 5W-30 were OK for the '14 thru '17.5 Mazda6 - it'd open more possibilities to run lower Noak / higher HTHS PAG or GTL basestock oils.... less prone to carboning up the intake valves. That said - the Skyactiv 2.5 does not hav much propensity to carbon up.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 04:21 PM
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Most 5qu. "jugs" of full synthetic, 0W-20 or 5W-30 cost around $22-25. Add a genuine Mazda filter you're into it around $30 doing an oil change yourself which really couldn't be any easier. Each oil change is at 7.5K miles or sooner if you prefer. Now times 30 by how many times you think your oil will need changed over the three years.

Only other real expense is for an air filter and a cabin air filter around 30K miles. you can buy both for approx. $25. Add the cost of the oil and filter along with the engine and cabin air filter and you have what it would cost you to do your own maintenance. For me, I'll spend close to $215 over the three years. No brainer. Now you just need to determine what's the best for you. If you have a problem you still have your warranty. Just be sure and keep your receipts of your oil and filter purchases.

Don't forget you'll want to rotate your tires.

Up to 30K miles there is no other service required other than inspecting the car, changing the oil and rotating the tires. If they tell you there's more to it than that, run, don't walk to a different dealer or indy.

My dealer offers FREE lifetime oil changes when you buy from them. You might want to ask them about that or even negotiate it into the sale. Sadly I won't be taking advantage of those as they are 300 miles away.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Dougspeed View Post
That is the oil requirement only for the nonturbo 2.5, on the 2.5T models, 5w30 is required and those do come as regular dino oil.
Anyone putting dino oil into a turbo vehicle deserves what they get. It only takes ONE hot shutdown to coke the oil in the center housing and when you do it that will start a degenerative cycle of damage that will result in you buying a new turbocharger.

Incidentally there's a reason I've never had one blow on any of my cars that have had them (nor on either of my boat diesels either, after I swapped two that the previous owner damaged before I got it) and that's because I simply never do that. Get off the highway or any other "hard" operation, let it idle for a couple of minutes before you shut it down. If you have an EGT gauge that's even better for giving you fair warning that you're about to do something dumb (I put them in on the boat) but most cars don't have 'em.

My TDI Jetta (now in my kid's hands, and she's heard the lecture many times too) has nearly 250,000 on the clock -- on the factory turbocharger.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your responses. I am going to pass on the oil change. I’m going to be driving mine at about 15k mikes a year so for a total of 6 oil changes, I don’t think it’s worth the pre-paid plan. Plus my dealership offered me the first one for free.
So makes no sense to spend $590 up front.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
Anyone putting dino oil into a turbo vehicle deserves what they get. It only takes ONE hot shutdown to coke the oil in the center housing and when you do it that will start a degenerative cycle of damage that will result in you buying a new turbocharger.

Incidentally there's a reason I've never had one blow on any of my cars that have had them (nor on either of my boat diesels either, after I swapped two that the previous owner damaged before I got it) and that's because I simply never do that. Get off the highway or any other "hard" operation, let it idle for a couple of minutes before you shut it down. If you have an EGT gauge that's even better for giving you fair warning that you're about to do something dumb (I put them in on the boat) but most cars don't have 'em.

My TDI Jetta (now in my kid's hands, and she's heard the lecture many times too) has nearly 250,000 on the clock -- on the factory turbocharger.
Haha, I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say. I meant that the 0w-20 is the requirement for the regular 2.5L motor, but for the turbo motor, Mazda specifies 5w-30 which are available in both synthetic and regular dino oil, I know none of the 0w stuff is available as anything other than synthetic. I've only used synthetic myself with all my past cars but I was just alluding to the fact that one can't assume the prepaid maintenance plan the dealer is selling will use synthetic since the oil weight for our turbo motors are also available as the cheaper dino oil.

I was also offered that same prepaid plan from my dealership but I did the math and with the low mileage that I drive, it's definitely not worth it. Especially since my own mechanic only charges me $10 to change the oil if I bring my own oil/filter.
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