~2007 Sport Wagon Rebuild Thread~ - Page 5 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #41 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-20-2019, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Not an update really, but I had forgotten I took photos of the steering rack tie rod replacement.
I purchased Ac delco boots and inner/outter tie rods from Mevotech. The mevotech came with all required nuts and cotters, but the lock washer they supplied with the inner tie rod has issues. I'd probably avoid it the next time.


Easiest way to work on a steering imo. What I recommend is that before you remove the steering rack, break loose the outter tie rod jam nuts its much easier.


After boots removed, bent back the tabs on the lock washer so you can get a crescent wrench there.


Like so...then remove the tie rod.


Problematic mevotech lock washer/ring...the pink stuff is locktight from mevotech. The lock washer has an inner diameter too small to install on the rack so modification is needed. Sorry no pics of exactly what I did, but basically the ring needs to be tulipped so it can fit over the rack end. To do so I used a hacksaw and cut a bit of the ring in 4 places so I could pry the ring out. Its not going anywhere.


Here's what the modified lock ring after it is installed and dimpled/punched.


Rack boots installed. I used the supplied zip ties for the smaller/outter portion of the boot, but I was never a fan of using zip ties to hold the big end. So in OEM fashion I used safety wire and tied up that end (although not pictured).


Been reading through @DrFeelGood thread on chassis bars and really want to add some on mine too. So after I get the car a bit more sorted, its next on the list!
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- 2007 Mazda6 Sport Wagon VE, A6, bought Nov 30th '18

- 2017 Chevrolet SS Nightfall Gray 6mt & LS3
- 1957 Chevrolet Sports Sedan
- 1992,1994 Infiniti G20 2.0L, 5mt
- 2000 Infiniti G20 2.0L, auto

Previous Mazdas: 89 & 2 x 92 626s

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post #42 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Started the weekend by visiting a wrecked '06 6 at one of the pull-a-parts. It was picked over a bit, but I got what I was looking for.

- Radiator Fan Shroud
- Front valve cover breather tube
- Auto Climate parts
- replacement hardware
- odds and ends

Being my wagon is the sport value edition, auto climate wasn't part of the package. I think the controls are much more attractive and well its cool to have. Luckily, it doesn't appear too difficult to add....Although there are a lot of threads discussing it, none seem to have gone through with it. At least with my '07 wagon, the solar sensor is in the dash already, so that is a plus. I'm assuming it is just there as a placeholder and unplugged. So anyway, I picked up the complete HVAC unit, climate head unit and the dash harness. From what I have seen so far the chassis harness itself doesn't need to be changed. Anyway I'll be tackling this soon and confirm it all.



Looks like the breather tube had broken at one point and repaired with shrink tubing. The repair was collapsing a bit and I wanted to get another one. "new" one is on top.


Routing of the MSDS/Nautilus on a '07. Instead of going underneath the subframe like 06-08 does stock, the MSDS goes up and over. It makes for a tight fit in there though. The header mounts seriously close to the jackshaft and it's bracket. I also had to remove the heat shield for the jackshaft for the header to fit. Instead of the supplied O2 extenders, I just used defoulers for now on the "after cat" O2 sensors....If it ends up setting off a CEL I'll use the supplied O2 extensions. But if the defoulers work, its a cleaner/easier set up imo.

Anyway, with some patience I managed to get the headers lined up and mounted up as in the photo. Problem came with the gasket....I needed the y-pipe to mid pipe donut gasket and no one in town had one. Its apparently special order only and the gasket that came with the headers does not work with the stock system, only nautilus' midpipe. So I used a gasket I thought might work from Autozone but it leaks...just not as bad as the last time.


I changed the front wheel bearings and it was a bit of relief that it went pretty smooth! Here is the passenger side with the hub pressed out. The grease was really dried out and the bearing cage was half gone. Turning the wheel it felt gummy and this proved it.


Bearing race pressed out and the knuckle is ready for reassembly. Notice the brake shield is missing. I tend to mangle them when doing bearings, but for the next round of upgrades they do get in the way anyway so off they came (stay tuned) A couple wacks with a hammer and they pop off.


Here I have the new bearing pressed in already and completing the final press of the hub into the bearing. Sometimes you have to be creative to get this to work.


I also did the driver side just didn't reuse the original hub since it was rough shape. After doing the wheel bearings I also replaced the jackshaft bearing. In the pic, I pressed out the jackshaft and what we see is the bearing retainer. I didn't realize until I pressed the bearing out, the bearing retainer is suspended in a hard rubber!


Jack shaft after the bearing is pressed out of the retainer.


Jackshaft bearing removal apparatus! large screw driver and small cheapie harbor freight puller


Jackshaft bearing reassembly isn't too bad. Just need to do some measuring as per the FSM as the retainer doesn't have a stop in it (MS6 one does though). If you play your cards right you can reuse the bearing dust covers. I don't have any photos, but to reassemble, the new bearing is pressed in the retainer, the dust covers are pressed in to the retainer and then the shaft is pressed in viola! jack shaft is refurbished.

After reassembling the front end, the wheels are rotating way easier! Bearing replacement is a bit of a pain, but definitely worth the effort

So I have the subframe torqued down as per FSM specs, along with all the lower arms. The engine mounts are all torqued and ready to go. I ended up and went a little crazy and decided to pick up ST Suspension coilovers and the rear suspension bits (Moog toe control arm, moog upper control arm, oem lower control arms, and moog bushings for the trailing arm) and rear wheel bearings. Originally I wasn't planning on doing the rear suspension (at least right away), but I was looking at the rear end over the weekend and the bushings were in worse shape than the front. Cracked and crusty. With all the time & money on the front, I figured it wouldn't do it justice if I didn't take care of the back end. In addition since I have the coilovers coming, I decided to pony up on the front upper control arms. A bit spendy but I decided to give the megan ones a try. I'll report back how it goes.

Next weekend, I am planning the following

- Auto Climate
- Condenser drier element change
- A/C Evac & Recharge
- Radiator shroud change (mine is broken in a couple spots)
- Coilovers
- MS6 Brakes
- Replace Y-pipe gasket

With all this suspension work some chassis bars are in the works.
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- 2007 Mazda6 Sport Wagon VE, A6, bought Nov 30th '18

- 2017 Chevrolet SS Nightfall Gray 6mt & LS3
- 1957 Chevrolet Sports Sedan
- 1992,1994 Infiniti G20 2.0L, 5mt
- 2000 Infiniti G20 2.0L, auto

Previous Mazdas: 89 & 2 x 92 626s

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post #43 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurddawg View Post
Started the weekend by visiting a wrecked '06 6 at one of the pull-a-parts. It was picked over a bit, but I got what I was looking for.

- Radiator Fan Shroud
- Front valve cover breather tube
- Auto Climate parts
- replacement hardware
- odds and ends

Being my wagon is the sport value edition, auto climate wasn't part of the package. I think the controls are much more attractive and well its cool to have. Luckily, it doesn't appear too difficult to add....Although there are a lot of threads discussing it, none seem to have gone through with it. At least with my '07 wagon, the solar sensor is in the dash already, so that is a plus. I'm assuming it is just there as a placeholder and unplugged. So anyway, I picked up the complete HVAC unit, climate head unit and the dash harness. From what I have seen so far the chassis harness itself doesn't need to be changed. Anyway I'll be tackling this soon and confirm it all.



Looks like the breather tube had broken at one point and repaired with shrink tubing. The repair was collapsing a bit and I wanted to get another one. "new" one is on top.


Routing of the MSDS/Nautilus on a '07. Instead of going underneath the subframe like 06-08 does stock, the MSDS goes up and over. It makes for a tight fit in there though. The header mounts seriously close to the jackshaft and it's bracket. I also had to remove the heat shield for the jackshaft for the header to fit. Instead of the supplied O2 extenders, I just used defoulers for now on the "after cat" O2 sensors....If it ends up setting off a CEL I'll use the supplied O2 extensions. But if the defoulers work, its a cleaner/easier set up imo.

Anyway, with some patience I managed to get the headers lined up and mounted up as in the photo. Problem came with the gasket....I needed the y-pipe to mid pipe donut gasket and no one in town had one. Its apparently special order only and the gasket that came with the headers does not work with the stock system, only nautilus' midpipe. So I used a gasket I thought might work from Autozone but it leaks...just not as bad as the last time.


I changed the front wheel bearings and it was a bit of relief that it went pretty smooth! Here is the passenger side with the hub pressed out. The grease was really dried out and the bearing cage was half gone. Turning the wheel it felt gummy and this proved it.


Bearing race pressed out and the knuckle is ready for reassembly. Notice the brake shield is missing. I tend to mangle them when doing bearings, but for the next round of upgrades they do get in the way anyway so off they came (stay tuned) A couple wacks with a hammer and they pop off.


Here I have the new bearing pressed in already and completing the final press of the hub into the bearing. Sometimes you have to be creative to get this to work.


I also did the driver side just didn't reuse the original hub since it was rough shape. After doing the wheel bearings I also replaced the jackshaft bearing. In the pic, I pressed out the jackshaft and what we see is the bearing retainer. I didn't realize until I pressed the bearing out, the bearing retainer is suspended in a hard rubber!


Jack shaft after the bearing is pressed out of the retainer.


Jackshaft bearing removal apparatus! large screw driver and small cheapie harbor freight puller


Jackshaft bearing reassembly isn't too bad. Just need to do some measuring as per the FSM as the retainer doesn't have a stop in it (MS6 one does though). If you play your cards right you can reuse the bearing dust covers. I don't have any photos, but to reassemble, the new bearing is pressed in the retainer, the dust covers are pressed in to the retainer and then the shaft is pressed in viola! jack shaft is refurbished.

After reassembling the front end, the wheels are rotating way easier! Bearing replacement is a bit of a pain, but definitely worth the effort

So I have the subframe torqued down as per FSM specs, along with all the lower arms. The engine mounts are all torqued and ready to go. I ended up and went a little crazy and decided to pick up ST Suspension coilovers and the rear suspension bits (Moog toe control arm, moog upper control arm, oem lower control arms, and moog bushings for the trailing arm) and rear wheel bearings. Originally I wasn't planning on doing the rear suspension (at least right away), but I was looking at the rear end over the weekend and the bushings were in worse shape than the front. Cracked and crusty. With all the time & money on the front, I figured it wouldn't do it justice if I didn't take care of the back end. In addition since I have the coilovers coming, I decided to pony up on the front upper control arms. A bit spendy but I decided to give the megan ones a try. I'll report back how it goes.

Next weekend, I am planning the following

- Auto Climate
- Condenser drier element change
- A/C Evac & Recharge
- Radiator shroud change (mine is broken in a couple spots)
- Coilovers
- MS6 Brakes
- Replace Y-pipe gasket

With all this suspension work some chassis bars are in the works.


Yet another great update, this thing is going to be awesome once you’re done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2007 6 Hatch 3.0 V6 ATX

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Mods tinted windows, trans cooler, triple gauge dash pod, EGR tube delete, TB coolant bypass, gutted exhaust w/ MagnaFlow muffler
To Come lowering springs, sway bars, subframe brace, strut tower brace
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post #44 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 04:13 PM
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Yes... VERY awesome!! Tell us more about the auto climate swap. How much wiring harness swapping have you determined is needed? It seems that the Gen1.5s were less likely to have auto climate. Also, note that the auto climate is different in the speed than in the usdm built 6.

Can't wait to see your progress.

Alex
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post #45 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedevil6 View Post
Yet another great update, this thing is going to be awesome once you’re done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I can't wait to take'er out

Quote:
Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
Yes... VERY awesome!! Tell us more about the auto climate swap. How much wiring harness swapping have you determined is needed? It seems that the Gen1.5s were less likely to have auto climate. Also, note that the auto climate is different in the speed than in the usdm built 6.

Can't wait to see your progress.
The auto climate discussion is still academic at this stage, but here is what I know from hands on from a '06 6s Sport, my wagon and the '07 FSM & '07 Wiring diagram.

The auto climate requires input from a few sensors to perform its function.

Inputs
1. Ambient air temp (outside)
2. Ambient air temp (inside)
3. Solar load sensor
4. Water temp sensor
5. Evap temp sensor

Outputs
- Air mix servo
- Inside/outside air servo
- Mode servo
- PWM fan control module
- A/C control

As far as I've seen, the manual climate equipped cars have 3 of the 5 sensors. Namely 1, 3, 5. 3 from the list is just based off the observation of my '07 wagon. Mazda changed its option/trim packages varied so much from year to year its probable to have a car not follow what I've seen. Based off what I've seen prior to '06 the V6 models all had auto climate. From '06 it was possible to get manual climate in the V6 models. Basically put...

2003-2008 I4 = Manual climate, unless MS6

2003-2005 V6 = All trims had Auto climate
2006 V6 = Sport, Grand Touring, Grand Sport had auto climate. Base trim had manual climate.
2007-2008 V6 = only the Grand Touring trim had auto climate

So, @waughoo you are right the 1.5 gen/series 2 cars have a higher chance without it.

Manual climate controlled cars also have most of the servos for the climate actuation....except for the air/mix door control. It is cable driven from the knob. The mode control and inside/outside air control is controlled the same as the auto climate.

The auto climate function/calculation is all handled within the auto climate head unit. The inputs pretty much all go into the head unit and the head unit sends signals to the outputs (servos, fan control, etc).

Since the outside ambient temp sensor is equipped on all cars, the engine bay harness isn't needed as the data is routed through the BCM. The BCM provides the ambient temp data to the auto climate head unit & the LCD screen/strip in the console. According to the oem part sites the BCM is the same for all Mazda6s i or s. I'm 98% sure the cabin/chassis harness is the same and so the dash harness will plug into the chassis harness to make all the necessary connections for the auto climate to work.

It *may be* possible to just grab the dash harness, Air mix door servo and linkage, PWM fan control module, auto climate head unit (w/console bezel), Water temp sensor and inside ambient temp sensor & tubing. I haven't looked at the manual HVAC casing to see if you can 'bolt-on' the ambient temp sensor tube and the water temp sensor to it or not. if the oem part numbers are any indication, the cases are the same between the models so the parts should 'bolt-on'. I just grabbed the complete HVAC unit just in case. The PWM fan control module mounts in place of the manual climate fan resistor pack in the fan/blower casing. If I can get away with it I hope to keep the car's original HVAC unit in as the heater hoses are a pain to access with engine in the car and I won't have to drain the coolant. As they say if there's a will there's a way, so I'll do what I need to get this to work
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- 2007 Mazda6 Sport Wagon VE, A6, bought Nov 30th '18

- 2017 Chevrolet SS Nightfall Gray 6mt & LS3
- 1957 Chevrolet Sports Sedan
- 1992,1994 Infiniti G20 2.0L, 5mt
- 2000 Infiniti G20 2.0L, auto

Previous Mazdas: 89 & 2 x 92 626s

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post #46 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 01:32 AM
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That's my favorite kind of mod: the factory option swap. When I did my speed 6 interior, lots of hours were spent pouring over wiring diagrams from the speed and my 04 to see what I'd need to do to make the full auto windows work. It was a lot of work but i sure do love having them. They wouldn't be that hard for you to add to your 1.5 gen if you wanted to do them. Let me know and I'd be happy to walk you through what I did.
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post #47 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
That's my favorite kind of mod: the factory option swap. When I did my speed 6 interior, lots of hours were spent pouring over wiring diagrams from the speed and my 04 to see what I'd need to do to make the full auto windows work. It was a lot of work but i sure do love having them. They wouldn't be that hard for you to add to your 1.5 gen if you wanted to do them. Let me know and I'd be happy to walk you through what I did.
I love the factory option swap too! I'll definitely contact you on the full auto windows I had read a bit about it as it came up while I was searching why my passenger window did work from the master switch (I know now it has to be reset).

- 2007 Mazda6 Sport Wagon VE, A6, bought Nov 30th '18

- 2017 Chevrolet SS Nightfall Gray 6mt & LS3
- 1957 Chevrolet Sports Sedan
- 1992,1994 Infiniti G20 2.0L, 5mt
- 2000 Infiniti G20 2.0L, auto

Previous Mazdas: 89 & 2 x 92 626s

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post #48 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurddawg View Post
I had read a bit about it as it came up while I was searching why my passenger window did work from the master switch (I know now it has to be reset).
@hurddawg it is rather a lot easier to do the full auto on your gen 1.5 than what I did to adapt the auto to a gen1. Regardless I have a lot of the schematics and such needed to sort it out. Let me know if you wanna dig into it. I'd be happy to share what I learned.

Alex
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post #49 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 12:12 PM
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Make sure that solar load sensor is actually a sensor. There is one that looks like it's there but it's just a dummy part with no electronics in it.
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post #50 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Make sure that solar load sensor is actually a sensor. There is one that looks like it's there but it's just a dummy part with no electronics in it.
Yep, I have the one from the '06 just in case anyway. I was more excited that I didn't have to make the hole in the dash for it

- 2007 Mazda6 Sport Wagon VE, A6, bought Nov 30th '18

- 2017 Chevrolet SS Nightfall Gray 6mt & LS3
- 1957 Chevrolet Sports Sedan
- 1992,1994 Infiniti G20 2.0L, 5mt
- 2000 Infiniti G20 2.0L, auto

Previous Mazdas: 89 & 2 x 92 626s

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