2016 6 Touring sound system build - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 09:52 AM
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The grilles look good, mine didn't turn out so great, so I'll get another pair to try again.

You ran into the same issue with the speaker grilles though. But I'll explain what was happening, there's a wave reflection happening at 300-450 Hz up there and it just messes with everything, staging, response, everything. Cut the grilles open and use cloth, fixed. There's a secondary issue up there I managed to fix before it happened, the wave travels down behind the dash and clashes with the door speaker's wave. Just put a piece of MLV behind the dash speaker. You'll lose a little response range because 3" likes unlimited space, but the wave collision at the bottom will hurt more.

I also recommend two things that Buwalda told me. Do speaker grille cloth on the door card grilles, not sure how I'll do it yet. Cut the speaker adapters in the doors so that they make a cone shape in the back, it keeps the adapter from funneling the speaker and lets it disperse correctly, very important if your adapter is as deep as mine.

My driver door card rattles awfully, so I have to take it off and deaden the hell out of it. But other than that it sounds good for an entirely off-axis car.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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@flyandi - as far as I know, the non-Bose system doesn't have an external amplifier. So yes, I am tapping from the high level signals.

@donkey - do you have a link for the damping material application to the fenders? I am curious where they are putting the stuff. Interestingly, when I was fooling around with the Molex plugs in the front door jambs I found that Mazda had stuffed some foam in between the fender and the body, just across from the Molex plug.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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@TheJesus - thanks for the tips. I don't sense that the dash speakers are cancelling with the doors but will check. I'm crossing them pretty high and have some closed cell foam inside the dash. The doors - I had wondered about that as I'd noticed some colored response from the door speakers that wasn't a problem with the factory speakers. It makes sense. The factory adapters were wide open. I'll see what some chopping on the back side of my adapters does...they pretty much are a 2.5" long cylinder. Did you do this already and did it help?

I've no plans to cut the door card grilles though...that is an expensive proposition.

Luckily, the only door rattling I had to solve was due to the plastic snap-in piece that goes behind the pull handles. I just glued a small piece of foam to the back side of the piece and problem gone.

Did you do anything about the trunk to funnel bass better into the cabin? I am planning to remove the 2 little speaker plate covers in the rear deck but that isn't much cross-section. I had (ok, well, "made") a pass-through behind the rear seat fold-down armrest in my previous vehicle and it made a world of difference. This car...not making those kind of mods.

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 11:10 PM
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I have not done the opening of the adapters yet but if Buwalda says do it, I do it, lol.

The door card grille is one of those things you probably wouldn't benefit from unless you plan to compete in SQ especially since your mids aren't being affected by the reflection.

I think it might be that snap in piece rattling now that you mention it... Hmm...

I didn't do anything because I'm not doing SPL and my sub is powerful enough that I don't need to. If I want a little extra bump I'll fold down the rear seat(s) to allow better airflow. I'm also infinite baffle so my sub is firing towards the cabin.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsun_g View Post
@donkey - do you have a link for the damping material application to the fenders? I am curious where they are putting the stuff.
Sound deadening - Page 2 - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums

I think he put the wrong link there. Reading through the rest of the thread, it sounds like he used the butyl dampener and then put the foam over the top of it, but his results aren't clear either. I've just asked him about it on that thread so hopefully he can clarify.

@TheJesus did you ever find a way to reduce the road/engine noise coming from the front of the car?
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Donkey Grundle View Post
Sound deadening - Page 2 - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums

I think he put the wrong link there. Reading through the rest of the thread, it sounds like he used the butyl dampener and then put the foam over the top of it, but his results aren't clear either. I've just asked him about it on that thread so hopefully he can clarify.

@TheJesus did you ever find a way to reduce the road/engine noise coming from the front of the car?
You'd have to pull the dash honestly. If you did and deadened + MLV'd the firewall with as close to 100% coverage as you could I think it would be approaching luxury car levels. The only other thing I may try if I feel like spending the money is using Second Skin Spectrum/Spectrum Sludge on the wheel wells, mostly in the front. I wish Mazda had not been so focused on "feeling the road" and put weight/strengthening into this car that is obviously not targeting speed demons (I'm sure someone that wants to go fast and drive aggressively is gonna buy the 4200 pound 2.5L 4 door sedan... Idk what Mazda is doing, but they're trying to sell everyone their dreams, but not being able to do any of them well).

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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This weekend I experimented with repruposing the front door OEM speaker adapter to house an MW 172.

I bought a 2015 OEM front speaker ($19 so no big setback) and was surprised to find that although it fit in the same space as the 2016 unit, it had a smaller neo magnet. 2016 unit on the left, 2015 unit on the right.

I gutted the speaker, used a blade to remove the protruding ring at the top of the mounting adapter, and cut a little larger radius to accommodate the MW 172. Next I cut 1/2" HDPE and bonded it on top of the OEM adapter. I soldered the wires to the OEM pigtails coming out from the connector and used the OEM wire clip. Used some Dynamat extreme to deaden the adapter and installed it.

Impressions: not much change compared to my heavy HDPE/birch adapter that isn't so open in the back. There might be a little more upper bass. Well I did succeed in removing about 3 pounds that I'd added to the car
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2016 6 Touring
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jsun_g View Post
When I calibrated the signal from the stock HU I was surprised to find there is some level of equalization coming from it, and the very low bass is essentially filtered out. Very sad.
.
You can adjust that actually in the Infotainment. The underlying system is a standard ALSA linux driver and there is a configuration file that has all the EQ settings in it (hardcoded).
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 11:28 AM
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On another note - I am getting ready to wire my subwoofer. How did you push your positive cable to the battery?

Did you drill through the firewall or use an existing passthrough?
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by flyandi View Post
On another note - I am getting ready to wire my subwoofer. How did you push your positive cable to the battery?

Did you drill through the firewall or use an existing passthrough?
I drilled thru...the location in the pic was the best I could find.

Do you have any link to information about the equalization?
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