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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Redline MTX Fluid

Has anybody put Redline MTX in their Gen 3? I found an old Thread but wonder if more of you have since that thread was created.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 01:05 AM
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Yep -- now nearing 200k, have run it since I drained the factory fill at 50k miles.

Love it.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:11 AM
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If memory serves - it is 75W-80... but most importantly it is GL-4. You cannot use GL-5. Some of us don't like MT1 buffered GL-5 for that matter. I think I have this right...

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 01:10 PM
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Correct -- NEVER run any MTX that is labeled for GL-4 with ANY oil that has a GL-5 rating anywhere, through any means, ever.

It will destroy the synchros; the problem is that GL-5 lubricants have a film strength that exceeds that of the material the synchros are made out of and thus the synchros shear instead of the oil!

Redline MTL is available in 75w80, which is the correct viscosity for these gearboxes and in my experience it produces materially less notchiness, especially when the gearbox is cold, than the factory fill. I've had it in my car since about ~40,000 miles, am now approaching 190k, and have continued to use it -- I've seen no reason to change away from it.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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I'm contemplating on using 75W90 and 5W30 for the engine oil. I like to shift at 3-4k RPM. From what I understand, 75W80 is a fuel efficient alternative to 75W90, and 0w20 is recommended because of CAFE standards (fuel economy) in the U.S. The rest of the world uses 5W30. The manual even indicates it. I live in Florida and do not deal with cold weather. Thoughts?
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 04:30 PM
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I see no reason to do either.

I have UOAs from my engine that say there's absolutely ZERO benefit to switching off 0w20. In addition I see no benefit in doing it with the gear oil either.

If you ever DO travel where it's cold you are you're likely to be quite unhappy with the thicker MTX oil when the car is cold.

I suspect the real reason for the 5w30 being used in other parts of the world is that 0w20 is hard to obtain, particularly away from major urban areas, where it's extremely common here in the United States everywhere. You can get 0w20 at any WalMart anywhere in the US, so that's not a factor here.

There are also fuel quality differences between nations, specifically in the amount of sulfur allowed. Mexico's sulfur annual average limit is three times ours (30ppm .vs. 10ppm) although their absolute maximum on a single run is comparable.

If I had any indication that using 0w20, even living in a hot climate (I'm in Florida) was insufficient, I'd have changed long ago. There's no indication of that at all and as a result there's no reason to do it. I happen to prefer Pennzoil Pure Platinum 0w20, but that's simply because at this point I have nearly 190,000 miles of service record on that oil in this engine and see no reason, absent a loss of convenient supply of it given its attractive price-point and availability, to change. The same is true for my '03 Jetta TDI; that engine has about 280,000 miles on it, all of it on Rotella T6 since the factory fill came out of it over 15 years ago, and the last time I had the rocker cover off to do the timing belt the cam was in very good condition for an engine that has a quarter-million miles on it, remaining perfectly serviceable.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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I was using Pennzoil Ultra in my Focus, but I just ordered Redline 0W20. I had a 2017 Focus and it ran beautifully on Shell Nitro+ 93 octane. Have you tried this in the Mazda 6?
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 12:08 AM
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Yes, but it's hideously expensive in this part of the country compared against regular fuel, and not worth it. I have an OVTune file for Premium fuel as well, but I think I've used it once or twice. I simply refuse to pay the crazy premium for the fuel over Regular 87 octane.

Incidentally when traveling in the mountains (e.g. Colorado) Regular is 85. Not only does the car run perfectly well on that the fuel economy goes UP by a couple MPG!
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Premium burns hotter, cleaner, and if the computer adapts it should give more power at the cost of fuel economy. Also, the additive package will help prevent the carbon that I've read this Skyactiv engine can have. It's not much more for Premium here in Gainesville.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 01:28 AM
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Whereas a direct injection engine (without additional port injectors) can theoretically have issues with intake valve build-up (and indeed, all such engines DO create some deposits on the back-sides of the intake valves) the SkyActiv engines certainly appear to NOT have problems. Injection timings, multiple injection events, and the temperature the intake valves are allowed to get to apparently all play a role in whether the buildup is a little (and not problematic) or a lot. Mazda appears to have been getting the formula right.

I can't see how ANY motor-fuel formulation could affect whether buildup is a little or a lot (as only air + oily crankcase air / fumes) makes its way past the back-sides of the valves. Never fuel-laden air with aerosol droplets of high detergent additive fuel.

Oh, and though the logic module / knock sensor(s) can trim-back on advance (and hence lower power level) in response to lousier than expected, lower than AKI 87 fuel - for whatever reason this SkyActiv engine (in stock form) appears to NOT be able to pull MORE HP / torque out of higher octane fuels. I don't know why...

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Last edited by Cdn17Sport6MT; 07-12-2019 at 02:08 AM.
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