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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Egr help!

Ok so my 05 mazda 6s 3.0 is throwing codes for the egr valve and is now throwing a code for a cylinder 1 misfire but brand new coil packs and plugs. Can the egr be causing that code?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:00 AM
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Not likely that the egr is causing the misfire. I would check the electrical plug in the coil for #1 . The plastic gets brittle over time and the securing clip can break such that they dont have a positive latch and can vibrate out. I had to zip tie a couple of mine.

What are your codes?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 03:30 PM
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+1 for checking the coil plug. All 6 of mine are broken and have zips ties on them. Also check the EGR plug. Mine was cracked and broken and was not able to stay in. It was so bad that individual pins were falling out of the plug itself. I didn't find that out until about 2 in the morning while I was in the middle of changing my injectors.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
Not likely that the egr is causing the misfire. I would check the electrical plug in the coil for #1 . The plastic gets brittle over time and the securing clip can break such that they dont have a positive latch and can vibrate out. I had to zip tie a couple of mine.

What are your codes?


The codes im getting are p0301 cylinder 1 misfire
02144 exhaust gas recirculation vent control direct low
P2227 barometric pressure circuit range/performance
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:29 AM
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I had the baro sensor code and solved it by replacing both the baro sensor and the three way solenoid right next to it on the firewall above and behind the egr valve. I suspect that your codes could be related to those parts. You might also want to take off your egr and give it a good clean out. They sometimes get gummed up and fail to close or open properly.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
I had the baro sensor code and solved it by replacing both the baro sensor and the three way solenoid right next to it on the firewall above and behind the egr valve. I suspect that your codes could be related to those parts. You might also want to take off your egr and give it a good clean out. They sometimes get gummed up and fail to close or open properly.
How to clean the EGR valve. The code one away for a little bit but it came back. So I'm assuming I need a new one but I will try buying a new sensor. They should be relatively cheap right?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 04:34 PM
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They are fairly easy to remove. So unbolt the ERG valve (there a few good videos on youtube) and have a look at it. If it's really full of crude than you will wash it down with EGR valve cleaning solvent from the parts store.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 08:13 AM
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To clean the EGR, had anyone had difficulty getting the nut loose to the EGR pipe? I can't break it free and am worried about cracking the plastic intake while it's still attached? Did any of you have to remove the intake to get the EGR off?

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazdafish View Post
To clean the EGR, had anyone had difficulty getting the nut loose to the EGR pipe? I can't break it free and am worried about cracking the plastic intake while it's still attached? Did any of you have to remove the intake to get the EGR off?
Yes, that mega nut was a bear.
I pulled the EGR out of the intake before cranking on it. I was able to get to it from the bottom with a 10" adjustable wrench and a 4' breaker bar. I believe I removed the resonator / downstream cat to get at it. I drowned it in PB blaster for a day or two before.
Good Luck.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
Yes, that mega nut was a bear.
I pulled the EGR out of the intake before cranking on it. I was able to get to it from the bottom with a 10" adjustable wrench and a 4' breaker bar. I believe I removed the resonator / downstream cat to get at it. I drowned it in PB blaster for a day or two before.
Good Luck.
I ended up getting the nut to the rear exhaust manifold removed with some heat, an adjustable wrench, and a small piece of pipe as an extension. Thankfully I didn't need to remove any of the exhaust. I just left the EGR pipe attached to the valve the whole time too. Cleaned everything out and it eliminated the P2227 code issue I was having. The EGR port into the intake was completely plugged with carbon soot.

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