Need urgent help! 2015 6 GT immobilized - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Need urgent help! 2015 6 GT immobilized

Hi there, 1st post and not happy that it's about a dire topic. So my wife has a 2015 GT full equipped and she went over a big pothole on the parkway and the engine shut off. She first thought it was a flat tire but the engine shut off and she was lucky enough to veer off from the middle lane and on to the right lane (no shoulder on the parkway!) with blinkers on. This was at around 9 pm and it was raining so this was extremely harrowing for her to sit on the right lane with the blinkers on with cars coming at her fast. Long story short, the car wouldn't start but no damage to the body or tires and I had road side assistance tow the car to our house. Before it was towed, a cop pulled in and she lowered passenger window to talk to him and 10 min later, the window wouldn't go up either. It's sitting on the driveway and these are the things I have done so far:

1) Removed the negative terminal of the battery, pumped the brakes for about 8-9 secs to let the battery drain hoping to reset the ECS but no luck. The car click but will not turn over. There is power but the windows wouldn't go up or down.
2) Removed both negative and positive terminals of the battery and re-connected after about 20 mins. Same result as above.
3) Looked for an inertia switch even though there is no mention of it anywhere in the manual. I looked in the passenger kick wall area, right panel between passenger door and foot rest, behind the glove compartment, there is no switch.
4) Looked for a fuel line cutoff switch but couldn't find any wherever I looked.

When I press the start button, there is a lock sign right next to the car symbol in the speedometer so I am pretty sure the car is immobilized. I searched all over the internet to see how to get it out immobilization mode but nothing written for the 3rd gen Mazda 6. Does anyone know of a sequence to get the car out of the immobilization mode? Willing to try anything at this point before having to tow it to the stealership!! Thanks in advance for any help.

Last edited by IncTomi; 02-24-2019 at 08:09 PM. Reason: spell check
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 10:50 PM
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I think you have pretty much covered everything . My guess would be the collision sensor which is likely programmed into the ECU itself which may have to be reset . I think in this case you are better off seeking help from the dealer. Keep us posted on the solution. Goodluck.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks MiLr. I figured it was something hard-coded to the ECU preventing this. I will do one more shot of draining the battering in hope of a full ECU reset before taking to the stealership. Will report back.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:54 AM
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That's pretty wild -- sounds like a collision sensor got triggered, but in my experience with most vehicles that's triggered by the airbag controller and the bags go off (in other words if THEY trip they notify the ECU, which locks out the engine.)

I don't know if something like Forscan (which can talk over the MS-CANBUS if you have the correct OBD plug for it) can "see" or reset that or not. The other possibility is that one of the modules involved in authentication with the key has come unconnected (e.g. connector not properly seated from the factory, and the impact dislodged it) and the ECU is throwing up over that.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Tickerguy, thanks for the key tip. Not only could be module be unconnected, it could also be the key itself somehow got screwed up on impact. I will try with the spare key tonight.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 06:47 PM
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Hold the key up to the start button when you try it -- that takes the RF circuit (other than the RFID reader right in the button and key itself) out of the list of possibilities.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 07:17 PM
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Just to close the loop on the issue, it was the battery!!! However, I still don't understand the correlation between the car initially turning off when hitting the pothole. The check engine light is on but I probably just have to clear the codes. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IncTomi View Post
Just to close the loop on the issue, it was the battery!!!
Great news!! How did you determine it was the battery? As for the codes, typically, removing the battery leads for a while will clear stored codes. That said, it would be a bit more interesting to find out what the codes are before you clear them.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IncTomi View Post
Just to close the loop on the issue, it was the battery!!! However, I still don't understand the correlation between the car initially turning off when hitting the pothole. The check engine light is on but I probably just have to clear the codes. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.

Does not happen very often but sometime a very low voltage near death battery can throw a check engine light, but it would be wise to still get that check engine light fault read to find out if anything else may be wrong with the car.


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Last edited by MadStyle; 03-14-2019 at 12:30 PM.
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