Mazda 6 2016 Touring Battery Replacement - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Mazda 6 2016 Touring Battery Replacement

My battery needs to be replaced at 22K miles. Kinda bummed and pissed but it is what it is. If the new one gives out soon will check the alternator.


Anyhow, has anyone bought and replaced the battery yet, OUTSIDE of the dealership?


I checked my car's battery and didnt see any useful info on it. Called the dealership and they told me they will install the interstate battery. So I checked on interstate website and it matched my car with a Group Size 35, 12V, 640 CCA battery. Here are the specs:

30 Months Free Replacement /6 Year Performance Warranty
Our best flooded, non-AGM battery
Part NumberMTP-35
Group Size35
Cold Cranking Amps640
Cranking Amps800
(RC) Min @ 25 Amp100
Length9
Width6 7/8
Height8 3/4
Weight38.2

I was reading the forum and saw something about the i-eloop and i-stop for a GT. Not sure if that applies to a Touring as well.

What are your experiences with self replacing the battery?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 09:35 PM
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Yep -- just buy one that fits; correct size and terminal configuration (group number and you're good.)

I replaced mine with a Wally. Simple, works, done. I have a Sport but the Touring takes the same battery (no iELoop nonsense so no AGM requirement.)

The factory battery was a Panasonic.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 09:52 AM
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Confirmed the factory battery was a Panasonic and that what you're speccing out is correct.

I went with an AGM, however because I've heard enough reports with Cx5 owners that the AGM handles cold starts much better than non-AGM. Was a pretty penny to pay, but will be worth it if/when the battery lasts another 5+ years and 130k miles.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byakuya View Post
Confirmed the factory battery was a Panasonic and that what you're speccing out is correct.

I went with an AGM, however because I've heard enough reports with Cx5 owners that the AGM handles cold starts much better than non-AGM. Was a pretty penny to pay, but will be worth it if/when the battery lasts another 5+ years and 130k miles.
I am using this battery charger in hope that it can extend the battery life.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 09:38 PM
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It won't, unless you frequently park the car for long periods of time without driving it (in which case float charging is helpful to prevent parasitic drain.)

Storage batteries wear out through both time and use, and especially abusive discharging (ANY deep discharge on a starting battery will permanently damage its capacity -- they're just not built to withstand that, so don't do it!)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
It won't, unless you frequently park the car for long periods of time without driving it (in which case float charging is helpful to prevent parasitic drain.)

Storage batteries wear out through both time and use, and especially abusive discharging (ANY deep discharge on a starting battery will permanently damage its capacity -- they're just not built to withstand that, so don't do it!)
My reference for this is the practice for commercial vessels. On board ship, lifeboats are battery started. And yes you are right since it is not used regularly, it is charged weekly.

For radio and satellite equipment, batteries are used as a backup source of power. These are charged 24/7 and monthly discharged/recharged. The same is true for the emergency generator.

These automotive batteries can last up to five years. In this regard, someone said that his battery on Mazda 3 lasted him about five years by using CTEK battery charger.

We all know that the i-Stop battery is expensive and I am really hoping that it will last at least 3 years.

The only way to justify my "claim" is to return here after 3 years.

Last edited by Archerfish; 12-18-2018 at 03:52 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 11:11 AM
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If you drive the car regularly for a reasonable amount of time (that is, "drive it" doesn't mean 3 minutes to the corner store!) then the alternator will properly charge the battery and there will be no material depth-of-discharge. Starting batteries DO NOT like any depth-of-discharge AT ALL; they will be severely damaged by even *ONE* such excursion below ~50% of capacity, so if you like to sit with your car not running and blast the stereo.....

All storage batteries self-discharge at a small, but real rate. There is also parasitic drain on all car batteries in the modern era since they all have electronics that are powered up all the time (e.g. for the push-button fob on the key.) The drain is not large, but it's there and over a period of weeks or months it matters. Thus, if you don't drive it regularly then a tender is a very good idea.

Your typical car battery has ~80AH of energy in it. If there is a 100ma draw for that parasitic load then you have ~800 hours of "idle time" before it's dead. But typical starting service only draws a couple of percent of the available power out of the battery, and impact on service life starts for a starting battery begins at about 20% depth-of-discharge, so in REALITY if you regularly sit for 160 hours between uses (a week), and those uses don't have enough runtime to replace the ~16 AH you consumed... oops! This is also why short trips are nasty as there isn't enough charge time to replace the consumed energy and thus the battery's state of charge continually decreases over time until it starts accumulating serious damage -- and shortly thereafter dies.

In addition it's pretty easy to consume 10 amps or more of power sitting in ACC mode. Do that for an hour and a half (e.g. listening to the stereo) and you're into the "damage" range, ESPECIALLY if you don't quickly run the vehicle for enough time to replace all the energy you consumed.

If your usage pattern fits something like this then a charger while idle is a real good idea. For those who don't fit such a usage pattern, however, it's unlikely you'll see any material difference in its use. In addition while many batteries are claimed to be "maintenance free" with the exception of AGMs or Gels they're NOT -- and if the water level in any of the cells gets low that will immediately and permanently damage the battery too, so you NEED to check that -- especially if you have a maintenance charger on the battery since if it's even slightly out of calibration water consumption will be excessive.

Most "early death" battery problems in cars, save for the rare factory defective battery, are due to depth-of-discharge abuse -- specifically, sitting in ACC mode (and especially if you have an aftermarket, large amp that draws lots of power!) Don't do it. If you must do it buy an AGM battery (they're expensive) which can tolerate that sort of abuse better, but expect shorter service life anyway, and make damn sure after such an episode you either charge it externally or drive the car long enough to fully recharge, which will take AT LEAST a half-hour of operation. SOME modern alternators have at least two-stage charging regulators (older ones, and many newer ones don't) and if you have a voltmeter on the dash (my Suburban does) you can tell when it switches out of bulk mode as the voltage will drop about a half-volt. From there you need AT LEAST 30 minutes of additional driving for the absorption charge phase to reach reasonably close to "full."

PS: Never put anything but distilled water in a flooded battery. Any minerals or contaminants in the make-up water will react with the sulfuric acid and destroy the cell(s) in question.

Last edited by tickerguy; 12-18-2018 at 11:21 AM.
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