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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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New 2016 GT owner, rust proofing and dashcam?

Hello, just picked up a 2016 GT with tech package to replace our 2005 Mazda 5. The 5 was a practical car and we really enjoy driving it, and we would be still driving it. But the rust has gotten to the point where my mechanic say I should save the money and get another car instead of repairing it.

After almost 2 months of search, we finally found the perfect one for us. It was a lease return with 76,000Km, the owner traded it in for the 2018 turbo model. It was one of the best ones we saw. The dealer agreed on new front and rear brake rotors and pads, plus the previous owner left a set of 17" winter tires on aluminum rims.

I do have to agreed that the stock Dunlop tires noisy. But the most pressing matter for me is getting it rust proofed, don't want to have the 6 to suffer the same faith as my 5. Another items is installing a dash cam because my 5 have gotten a couple of hit and runs while parked in front of my house.

So, have anyone gotten there 6 rust proofed and which product did they used, Rustcheck, Crown? How about dash cam, anyone installed one? How difficult was the wiring? Thanks in advance.

Last edited by Davebert; 11-28-2018 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Wrong winter tire size
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 10:53 PM
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You may want to do some research on rust proofing. Consumer Reports as well as others typically do not recommend it on newer cars. Here is a recent thread on rubberized undercoating:

https://forum.mazda6club.com/lounge/...-your-car.html

I started a thread on dash cam recommendations last year. Here is the link:
https://forum.mazda6club.com/car-ele...ns-wanted.html

I ended up buying the Viofo A119S from OCD Tronic via Amazon. I've had it installed for over a year now with no issues. Hard-wiring it was not difficult at all. I purchased the hard-wire kit from The Dashcam Store. I paid a bit more for it as I did not want to take a chance on any of the cheap ones offered on Amazon. Plus, they will ensure you have the right set-up.

https://www.thedashcamstore.com/univ...tallation-kit/

I also purchased a set of trim removal tools which you might also want to consider.

Hope this helps.

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Last edited by neenwht6; 10-26-2018 at 06:15 AM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neenwht6 View Post
You may want to do some research on rust proofing. Consumer Reports as well as others typically do not recommend it on newer cars. Here is a recent thread on rubberized undercoating:

https://forum.mazda6club.com/lounge/...-your-car.html

I started a thread on dash cam recommendations last year. Here is the link:
https://forum.mazda6club.com/car-ele...ns-wanted.html

I ended up buying the Viofo A119S from OCD Tronic via Amazon. I've had it installed for over a year now with no issues. Hard-wiring it was not difficult at all. I purchased the hard-wire kit from The Dashcam Store. I paid a bit more for it as I did not want to take a chance on any of the cheap ones offered on Amazon. Plus, they will ensure you have the right set-up.

https://www.thedashcamstore.com/univ...tallation-kit/

I also purchased a set of trim removal tools which you might also want to consider.

Hope this helps.
Everything he said.

Unfortunately, with the saline solution most wintery places are putting on the roads now, there's almost nothing you can do to prevent the inevitable buildup of rust. Thankfully, this car has quite a bit of plastic covering the essentials of the underbody, so lots of it remains relatively untouched.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I have one more question, where can I get touch up paint for the stock 19" rims. There is a few small road rash, not too deep and I would like to touch it up before the scratches starts to effect the clear coat. Also, what is that colour? Looks to be some sort of gun metal gray.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 04:36 PM
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Yeah I wouldn't "rustproof" either; you may actually make the problem WORSE!

The brine is going to eat anything it touches. The plastics help by keeping it off a lot of surfaces, but still... you would not believe the difference it makes not living in such a place -- I can still get factory-assembled things apart without any problem at all on my vehicles living in Florida -- right near the water! No, the "salt air" doesn't rust things materially. Now if you park outside what the sun does to your PAINT, on the other hand....

Pick your poison.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
Yeah I wouldn't "rustproof" either; you may actually make the problem WORSE!

The brine is going to eat anything it touches. The plastics help by keeping it off a lot of surfaces, but still... you would not believe the difference it makes not living in such a place -- I can still get factory-assembled things apart without any problem at all on my vehicles living in Florida -- right near the water! No, the "salt air" doesn't rust things materially. Now if you park outside what the sun does to your PAINT, on the other hand....

Pick your poison.
Thank you for this - I got in a small dispute with a very well-respected forum member here many years ago because they were convinced that living by the sea (specifically, Florida) was worse than road brine......I laughed the next time I was under my car

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 12:59 PM
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There are various rustproofing methods, coatingsare the most common and they can be the "one time" application onesand the yearly oil type ones such as Krown and Rust-Check.

You need oxygen and humidity for corrosion to eatyour car away, all will corrode if those are present, it's just how fast ithappens. Isolating (protecting) the metal from these elements will drasticallyreduce the rate and the effectiveness will vary on how well the coating isapplied, the surface is prepared and of course, how well the coating ages.

Rubberized coatings are good as long as they donot crack (many do) and how well they are applied and I’ve found many examplesof poorly applied coatings. If you have a point of entry (water and oxygen)behind the coating, corrosion will spread rapidly behind it and you will mostlikely won't see it until it's too late.

Here is a good article I found about this: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/culture/commentary/should-you-buy-rust-proofing-for-your-car/article19839668/

I’ve lived in the tropics, right next to the seaand now I am in Canada, enjoying all the salt that is sprayed during Winter(insert sarcasm here) and IMO, I can assure you the worst you can do isnothing, even more if you keep your cars for 5 years or longer.

Washing your car is the bare minimum but it isalmost impossible to get to all those hidden spots in the underbody where thesalt and brine find their way into.

I’ve always used the rubberized coatings on newcars, I do believe the oil-type ones are better on used vehicles where there isalready some corrosion present.

I bought my 6 used and I was glad to find that itwas undercoated (rubberized type) when new. The floors and rocker panels aremint but due to a poor application (tech didn’t remove the liners to spray the rearwheel wells) I do have some corrosion in that area (was there when I bought it)which I constantly treat with the oil spray type.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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During the search for my current 2016 M6, I saw another gray one, same year and have rust stain at the weep holes in the trunk lid. I can also see the paint around these weep holes starting to blister. That is why I am looking at rust proofing even though my car is in great condition with no signs of rust don't want it to suffer the same faith as my 1st gen(2006) Mazda 5.
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