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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Bringing an '04 back to life.....

Hi all. Bought my nieces old car for my daughter who won't have her license for another year. A 5 speed. I have insisted she learn to drive a clutch. But it's been sitting for a year and a half cuz niece said it lost power. Just like her father "Cousin Eddie", car breaks, so just park it wherever and buy another one. Car is my avatar pic. Has mechanical and cosmetic issues. All hopefully fixable.



It barely runs, but I limped it home and have a P0340 cmp code. And like everyone everywhere else I've researched this, put in a new cam sensor, and no change . Idles very smooth and quiet, steady 18 inches vacuum, but bucks and spits when I touch the throttle. TCS lights flash and tach goes crazy. I checked the grounds and all is good there, but I took them apart and scuffed them up anyway.



I have read that this could be a false code and really should be looking at the crank sensor instead?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvthesnow View Post
Hi all. Bought my nieces old car for my daughter who won't have her license for another year. A 5 speed. I have insisted she learn to drive a clutch. But it's been sitting for a year and a half cuz niece said it lost power. Just like her father "Cousin Eddie", car breaks, so just park it wherever and buy another one. Car is my avatar pic. Has mechanical and cosmetic issues. All hopefully fixable.



It barely runs, but I limped it home and have a P0340 cmp code. And like everyone everywhere else I've researched this, put in a new cam sensor, and no change . Idles very smooth and quiet, steady 18 inches vacuum, but bucks and spits when I touch the throttle. TCS lights flash and tach goes crazy. I checked the grounds and all is good there, but I took them apart and scuffed them up anyway.



I have read that this could be a false code and really should be looking at the crank sensor instead?
I'd suggest going through this link quickly, you may find it very helpful. Sounds like crank sensor to me.

https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0340/
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. I have yet to check the sensor wiring to the pcm. Need to get some manuals to find the pin numbers.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by luvthesnow View Post
Hi all. Bought my nieces old car for my daughter who won't have her license for another year. A 5 speed. I have insisted she learn to drive a clutch. But it's been sitting for a year and a half cuz niece said it lost power. Just like her father "Cousin Eddie", car breaks, so just park it wherever and buy another one. Car is my avatar pic. Has mechanical and cosmetic issues. All hopefully fixable.



It barely runs, but I limped it home and have a P0340 cmp code. And like everyone everywhere else I've researched this, put in a new cam sensor, and no change . Idles very smooth and quiet, steady 18 inches vacuum, but bucks and spits when I touch the throttle. TCS lights flash and tach goes crazy. I checked the grounds and all is good there, but I took them apart and scuffed them up anyway.



I have read that this could be a false code and really should be looking at the crank sensor instead?

Welcome to the group.


I can't tell if you have a 4 or 6cyl but, there is a known issue with the throttle body causing erratic code presentation and poor running. I believe there is a TSB n this.


Here are some pages from the 2004 workshop manual.
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2004 6s Wagon 3.0, 5-speed ATX, Performance White (A2N)
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 03:07 AM
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I'm with @DrFeelGood . Despite the strange connection, I would suspect the throttle body based on the failure pattern. If memory serves, it's the throttle position sensor within the throttle body. Unfortunately it's not a separately replaceable part.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 02:27 PM
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Dont forget the nasty MAF hose issue too.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Wow, I don't know where to start now. I can get it to run above idle speed but here is the scenario. I hold throttle a bit above idle. It stumbles along and at some point cleans up and revs steady at say 2000rpm for maybe 2 seconds then cuts out like no ignition, tach and tcs lights go wild, almost comes to a stop, and comes back to life again. If I hold the throttle steady it will continue this back and forth. Exhaust gets rotten egg stinky. If I let off throttle it will usually settle down to idle again.


Engine is the 2.3L


What's the MAF hose issue?

Last edited by luvthesnow; 08-21-2018 at 10:36 PM. Reason: added info
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvthesnow View Post
Thanks guys. Wow, I don't know where to start now. I can get it to run above idle speed but here is the scenario. I hold throttle a bit above idle. It stumbles along and at some point cleans up and revs steady at say 2000rpm for maybe 2 seconds then cuts out like no ignition, tach and tcs lights go wild, almost comes to a stop, and comes back to life again. If I hold the throttle steady it will continue this back and forth. Exhaust gets rotten egg stinky. If I let off throttle it will usually settle down to idle again.


Engine is the 2.3L


What's the MAF hose issue?

Take out (don't just unplug) the upstream O2 sensor and give it a short drive. Does it seem better?


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
Take out (don't just unplug) the upstream O2 sensor and give it a short drive. Does it seem better?

OK. Tried that. Ran the same just louder. Can you tell me what you were looking for?

I have tested cam and crank sensor wiring to the connector at the pcm with wiggle tests as well and all is good.

I cleaned out the throttle body and maf off the car. Installed and gave it a run without the snorkel and maf connected. It did run and rev and hold high rpm (with the corresponding tb codes). Put it all together and runs bad again as it did before. It will now hold a steady throttle to 2000 rpm sitting on driveway, but still bucks and acts up if I try to drive it.

We also own an '09 Ford Escape and '11 Fusion (both 2.5's and run great btw) so I know about the tb issues. But I really don't want to throw $300 at a throttle body and hope. What say you?

So that's where I'm at for now. I wish I knew or could find a great diagnostic guy with some tools to see live data.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
Take out (don't just unplug) the upstream O2 sensor and give it a short drive. Does it seem better?
I replied a few days ago but it didnt show up. I had some time and tried the O2 removal and no change. Was this a test for a plugged cat?

I have confirmed good wiring for the cam and crank sensor.

One thing I noticed today when I had to move it out of the shop. Had it running with the ac on. When the compressor kicked on ALL issues went away. Would rev and run smooth at all rpms. What's up with that?


Before spending $300 and hoping a new throttle body solves the problem, I bought a cheap working used one with a 60 day warranty and I will hope on that. Should have an answer by end of week.
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