Hello everyone. This is my first post, but not a very good post. Am almost giving up. I am from Kenya in Africa, i own a 2010 Mazda Atenza GH series.
Issues. In chronological order.
I had charging issues, changed 2 alternators in a space of 2 months.
Autoshop said the alternators can not be faulty its my car making them faulty.
So i checked for the wires completely with my mech and we found out that the main wire from alternator has touched the belt (alternator, water pump belt) thus being eaten up slowly till the 2 wires from alternator came into contact.
This happened without a working alternator as i wouldn't buy another alternator without first knowing why 2 are already dead.
1 day later i buy new battery & ex japan alternator. Now here is where the rain poures on us literally.
We did put the 3rd alternator and the mech decided to check if its charging buy removing positive terminal from the battery.
The car just died, for 2 hours we tried to make even the dashboard to blick.
We found a blown fuse, we changed and the instrument cluster came back to life.
But almost all warning lights were on except engine oil and AFS.
So we checked all fuses and we found a ABS fuse blown, trying to put a new fuse it blows almost instantaneous thus we concluded the ABS module was fried when we took off the +terminal.
Did a scan of errors and we found Loss Communication with Abs, Steering wheel, Automatic Transmission, Low Charging Voltage.
Bought a new ABS module and the fuse now does not blow.
Problem for 3 weeks now is the warning lights are still there.
Check Engine
Power Steering
Abs
Handrake
Speedometer not moving + mileage
AT
Battery
Key knob.
Now the car runs like new, the only problem is power steering is abit stiff but its charging, changing gears, detecting when key goes out of the car but the warning lights are still there and you CAN NOT erase them using scan obd tool.
What might be the problem? Have taken to some good mechanic, tested can bus voltage, modules voltage and everything seems to be within rage. All mechanics agree its something small affecting the communication but nobody knows where to look now because if AT had problems gears couldn't shift, if not charging car could die on me,
I have a new ECU but not yet programmed with my key and anti theft so it can not work as of yet.
Fellow owners where should i start??
Issues. In chronological order.
I had charging issues, changed 2 alternators in a space of 2 months.
Autoshop said the alternators can not be faulty its my car making them faulty.
So i checked for the wires completely with my mech and we found out that the main wire from alternator has touched the belt (alternator, water pump belt) thus being eaten up slowly till the 2 wires from alternator came into contact.
This happened without a working alternator as i wouldn't buy another alternator without first knowing why 2 are already dead.
1 day later i buy new battery & ex japan alternator. Now here is where the rain poures on us literally.
We did put the 3rd alternator and the mech decided to check if its charging buy removing positive terminal from the battery.
The car just died, for 2 hours we tried to make even the dashboard to blick.
We found a blown fuse, we changed and the instrument cluster came back to life.
But almost all warning lights were on except engine oil and AFS.
So we checked all fuses and we found a ABS fuse blown, trying to put a new fuse it blows almost instantaneous thus we concluded the ABS module was fried when we took off the +terminal.
Did a scan of errors and we found Loss Communication with Abs, Steering wheel, Automatic Transmission, Low Charging Voltage.
Bought a new ABS module and the fuse now does not blow.
Problem for 3 weeks now is the warning lights are still there.
Check Engine
Power Steering
Abs
Handrake
Speedometer not moving + mileage
AT
Battery
Key knob.
Now the car runs like new, the only problem is power steering is abit stiff but its charging, changing gears, detecting when key goes out of the car but the warning lights are still there and you CAN NOT erase them using scan obd tool.
What might be the problem? Have taken to some good mechanic, tested can bus voltage, modules voltage and everything seems to be within rage. All mechanics agree its something small affecting the communication but nobody knows where to look now because if AT had problems gears couldn't shift, if not charging car could die on me,
I have a new ECU but not yet programmed with my key and anti theft so it can not work as of yet.
Fellow owners where should i start??