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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Air box mod

hey i got a 2005 mazda 6 S 3.0 v6 GT i did some of the air box mod i took the tuba off which was really easy but i know there are a few more pieces to take out and i dont know what they are if someone could please give me pics or a really detailed description on what else to take out for this mod that would be great
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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p.s ive looked on this site and google but i havent really found anything
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 05:45 PM
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I found the write-up here but the pics are gone.

DIY: Airbox Mod for 03-08 - 6Crew.com Forum

Someone else posted pics on page 21 of the same thread.

DIY: Airbox Mod for 03-08 - Page 21 - 6Crew.com Forum

Hope this helps.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 06:11 PM
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Basically, there is a bottom plate in the air box that can be removed. Currently the stock air box has this plate and diverts the bottom 1" or 2" of air to the silencer (located in front of tire---access from underneath by removing some screws and plastic rivets along wheel well in front of tire). So remove air box and remove bottom inner plate. Some people remove the flapper on the side (which is controlled by a vaccuum solenoid). I would leave this alone (and have). The silencer is bolted on with 3 nuts. Again, some people remove this, I did not. I drilled about 6 holes in the bottom of it to get at the cold air from infront of the wheel area. Also, by leaving it in you get less water in intake area and less noise. This is the way my current set-up is. I have a 2006 Mazda 6 V6 3.0 litre. I also replaced the stock Mazda air filter with a different one.

The bottom plate is basically the same size as the air box width and length. You must remove the box. If you look carefully at the outside you will see little tabs that stick in to sides of air box. A screwdriver pryed on tabs (I forget from inside or outside) will remedy this situation, at he end a good pull is required if you can't get to a couple of them.

Last edited by BigAlDJ; 03-01-2011 at 06:21 PM. Reason: tabs
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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hey thanks so much you guys u have been a huge help i will be doing this tomorrow or finishing it i should say and once again thanks to both of ya!
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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should i keep the tuba off? will the hot air affect the way it accelerates or anything of that nature?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 08:56 PM
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I left mine on. I don't think it will make much difference. Hot air however is the enemy. This is why I left resonator (silencer on) and drilled holes in it. I would leave flapper on as well. Basically by removing bottom plate you are getting a more straight shot and the holes gained by removing the bottom plate (holes in slot where it is mounted) and drilling holes in the bottom of the silencer are more than enough air flow. By removing silencer and flapper you may not get as much cold air and more crap in your air box.
You can try different combinations. Try it without tuba then try it with it.

Last edited by BigAlDJ; 03-01-2011 at 08:58 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAlDJ View Post
I left mine on. I don't think it will make much difference. Hot air however is the enemy. This is why I left resonator (silencer on) and drilled holes in it. I would leave flapper on as well. Basically by removing bottom plate you are getting a more straight shot and the holes gained by removing the bottom plate (holes in slot where it is mounted) and drilling holes in the bottom of the silencer are more than enough air flow. By removing silencer and flapper you may not get as much cold air and more crap in your air box.
You can try different combinations. Try it without tuba then try it with it.

hey thanks dude ill prob put the tuba back on and remove that bottom plate and drill hole in the silencer like you did just seems better and wont get a bunch of crap in the air box i might post pics to other newbies that dont know how to do this so they dont have to look around
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 09:39 AM
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Excellent! Some people get too carried away with unecessary openings.
When you remove the plate you will have probably 8 small slots extra for air to get in, this combined with the holes drilled in the silencer is sufficient. Not to mention gets at cold air better and doesn't fuck with vaccuum solenoid. This also is helpful if your car is under warranty because it will be harder for the dealer to know you've fucked with it (probably the best reason to leave silencer and flapper on and if you have a major problem it is easy to put bottom plate back on). However, this is my logical opinion. To each his own.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAlDJ View Post
Excellent! Some people get too carried away with unecessary openings.
When you remove the plate you will have probably 8 small slots extra for air to get in, this combined with the holes drilled in the silencer is sufficient. Not to mention gets at cold air better and doesn't fuck with vaccuum solenoid. This also is helpful if your car is under warranty because it will be harder for the dealer to know you've fucked with it (probably the best reason to leave silencer and flapper on and if you have a major problem it is easy to put bottom plate back on). However, this is my logical opinion. To each his own.

i had a code pop p2177 and p2179 says bank 1 and bank 2 are too lean at idle im thinking its because of the mod i looked up the codes and it doesnt seem to be a big deal i also read that there is a device for this to stop popping the codes i dunno what the device is but i am eventually going to put a CAI on anyway just wondering if u had the same problem? i reset the codes and they havent came back on yet
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