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post #41 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
Well, as long as you're not picking up moisture (or worse, fuel dilution), yes. The problem is that if you are, and are all doing short trips, it never gets evaporated back out of the oil.
Will driving 60 mph for 10 minutes get the oil hot enough that the moisture is removed? That is my typical drive to work.
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post #42 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
Well, as long as you're not picking up moisture (or worse, fuel dilution), yes. The problem is that if you are, and are all doing short trips, it never gets evaporated back out of the oil.
I'm always revving hard, in fact, I use the kickdown quite often just for the heck of it, couldn't care less about fuel economy

that should help somewhat?
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post #43 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 05:59 AM
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The old rule of thumb used to be it took seven miles of driving to get the oil to operating temp on average.

Of course it will depend on ambient temperature, engine design, load, time, distance, etc, etc. What is Mazda’s time recommendation for schedule 2 “severe service.” Is it four or five months?


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post #44 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by GWL View Post
Will driving 60 mph for 10 minutes get the oil hot enough that the moisture is removed? That is my typical drive to work.
No.

It typically requires a good half-hour once the oil is at full operating temperature to drive out any accumulated fuel and/or moisture, and the OIL reaches full operating temperature quite a bit later then the coolant does. In cold weather it takes even longer, obviously.

Your drive cycle is not quite the worst-possible (that would be the same 10 minutes or less at city speeds!) but it's pretty bad.... I'd certainly consider it "severe service." You can mitigate that to a material degree by putting a solid hour's drive on the car on the weekends, but if not, I'd run the shorter change intervals.
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post #45 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
No.

It typically requires a good half-hour once the oil is at full operating temperature to drive out any accumulated fuel and/or moisture, and the OIL reaches full operating temperature quite a bit later then the coolant does. In cold weather it takes even longer, obviously.

Your drive cycle is not quite the worst-possible (that would be the same 10 minutes or less at city speeds!) but it's pretty bad.... I'd certainly consider it "severe service." You can mitigate that to a material degree by putting a solid hour's drive on the car on the weekends, but if not, I'd run the shorter change intervals.
Unlikely that something would happen to the engine, if you are that worried, then do the change every 4 months.

I could drive to the beach, which is like 45 minute drive on the weekends, but that is money I'd be wasting and miles I'd be putting on the car, but as long as it keeps the car in better condition

There is nothing you can do unless you want to quit your job and find another 1 hour away? Who would do that. My job is like 5 miles from home, after I get home, I may go to Walmart to buy stuff, but that's it, why should I drive more without any purpose? Makes no sense. Not to mention, what a pain in the ass having to do that everyday, driving nonsensically every day just for maintenance purposes?

Yeah, let me just drive one hour so I can go see Mandingo who is selling some jamaican food and a meaty appendage to go along with it

I'd stick to going to beach on weekends or whatever

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post #46 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 10:16 PM
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Well I certainly understand -- but there are drive-cycles that are not good from a standpoint of any ICE and this is one of them. ICEs experience most of their internal wear on a cold start and the lubrication system along with internal clearances are designed for the engine at its full operating temperature. It's just how it is.

If that was my primary use for a vehicle I'd buy the cheapest plug-in electric I could find -- it won't mind that commute one little bit. Indeed, stored in a garage and not being operated in a climate where you have salt eating the vehicle literally alive such a vehicle might outlive YOU and would likely have an approximate ZERO maintenance cost as well (the tires would likely rot out before they wore out.)
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post #47 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazda6Suspension View Post
I'd stick to going to beach on weekends or whatever
I'm with you @Mazda6Suspension . Save the miles and the gas and if one is concerned, step up the oil changes a bit. And if you feel the need to go for a drive, hit the beach!

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post #48 of 163 (permalink) Old 12-12-2017, 09:11 AM
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Living where I do, unless I keep it in the garage throughout the entire winter, I'd better get my miles in before the car is, like ticker said, literally eaten alive by treated roads.

I don't mind my crazy commute, and it's what allows me and my family to live where and how we do (happily). I also figure that by the time the car is eaten by saline solution, I'd have put enough miles on it to feel as though I've more than gotten my money's-worth.

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post #49 of 163 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
No.

It typically requires a good half-hour once the oil is at full operating temperature to drive out any accumulated fuel and/or moisture, and the OIL reaches full operating temperature quite a bit later then the coolant does. In cold weather it takes even longer, obviously.

Your drive cycle is not quite the worst-possible (that would be the same 10 minutes or less at city speeds!) but it's pretty bad.... I'd certainly consider it "severe service." You can mitigate that to a material degree by putting a solid hour's drive on the car on the weekends, but if not, I'd run the shorter change intervals.
Plus, DI motors run cooler than port injected or Turbocharged motors. The average oil temp is probably around 80C for these engines, so I have no idea how moisture in the oil would be boiled off.

Any ideas, anyone?
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post #50 of 163 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Byakuya View Post
Results are (finally) in!

@Get Inline, @tickerguy, @Horn17, @Mad Myche and sorry if I missed out on anyone else who may have been interested.

Numbers don't lie, there's no fuel dilution happening here. It doesn't list it, but I changed this at around 6000 miles (as I have been since day 1). I've used Castrol 0w20 every single change for almost 5 years and 110k miles (at the time of the change).

Fuel dilution varies from motor to motor. some owners have so much fuel dilution, their oil level INCREASES from city driving. Me personally, smelling my oil on the dipstick, it smells very strongly of fuel compared to my BMW, which is a port-injected motor.
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