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post #151 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Get Inline View Post
Not all of us bought our Mazda brand new from the factory. A couple full throttle pulls early on in the cars life is all it takes for some minor damage to occur, thus accelerating metal wear. Here's the problem. I could easily make the argument stating the opposite of what you claim, that the use of thinner oils should not be used because they have been around for a very small time period compared to what we have used for several decades. Plus, nowhere else in the world is 0W oil specified as the "recommended oil weight"

Furthermore, your 2006 V6 engine is a Mazda AJ engine, which is purely 100% Mazda design. Ford simply re-branded it as the "Duratec 30" V6 so they could use it in their own cars and make people like you believe that it is indeed a Ford design, when it most certainly is not. This is a whole other discussion which has nothing to do with the topic at hand, but all it does is make me confirm even further that whatever nonsense you have stumbled across this thread with has absolutely zero credibility.

Your comment about semi-synthetic oil also means just about nothing. There are many oils on the market such as Castrol which claim they are "synthetic" but are in fact a Dino oil base with additives poured in that officially calls it "synthetic" Even though it is only a Semi blend. There are good Dino oils out there just like there are bad synthetic oils, so your "logic" continues to mean even less and less to me.

The Mazda 2.5L Skyactiv engine, known as the PY-VPS, is based off the previous generation L5-VE 2.5L engine. You can confirm this by looking at the Bore X Stroke dimensions and overall displacement, which is identical. This means that the Skyactiv motor is NOT a clean-sheet design, and the 10W50 oil suggestion suggests that this engine most certainly does NOT have tight tolerances. Again, all the points you have made are entirely useless.

Hey man, I'm not trying to say that your logic is "half-baked" or anything, but maybe you shouldn't come off as an asshole and question other people on things you know absolutely nothing about.

you've been the one to come off as an asshole, don't bring that shit here. And your self education is shit to boot. You think if you read some tech docs you got this thing about oil all figured out? if you bought a used car then do whatever the fuck you want to make you fell special. I know what I have, how it's been kept and how it will be kept so I like many others here have no concerns about it's previous life.

BTW, can you help me with replacing my struts? I heard that you're a mechanical genius and know all about how cars work. this fucking guy.
This is coming from the same dude that thinks his Mazda engine is built by Ford.
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post #152 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 07:49 PM
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Dang, I thought this thread was finished. Nope, you guys are still at it.
It's the thread that keeps on giving.. and giving.. lol
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post #153 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 10:07 PM
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This is coming from the same dude that thinks his Mazda engine is built by Ford.
Do a little more digging smart guy, the 3.0 in the 1st gen is based off of the ford Duratec engine, while Mazda added the VVT DOHC heads. The Duratec has roots from a Ford/Porsche design back in the 90's. I know I worked for Ford at the time when the first US iteration a 2.5 liter was offered in the SVT Contour. Also your friend Wikipedia might offer some insight.



Do you have ANY practical knowledge or just what you regurgitate?
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post #154 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Get Inline View Post
This is coming from the same dude that thinks his Mazda engine is built by Ford.
Do a little more digging smart guy, the 3.0 in the 1st gen is based off of the ford Duratec engine, while Mazda added the VVT DOHC heads. The Duratec has roots from a Ford/Porsche design back in the 90's. I know I worked for Ford at the time when the first US iteration a 2.5 liter was offered in the SVT Contour. Also your friend Wikipedia might offer some insight.



Do you have ANY practical knowledge or just what you regurgitate?
All of what you said is complete and utter nonsense. Mazda and Ford were partnered up together since the 1970’s. Mazda has some of the best engine designs coming out of Japan, but they were a very small volume company and did not have the money to manufacture their designs. This is where Ford comes in. The deal was that Mazda produces engine and chassis designs which Ford then rebranded and called their own, thus increasing Mazda’s production levels. The Duratec 30 is based off the Mazda AJ, engine, which is a 3L version of the Mazda K 2.5L V6 otherwise known as the Duratec 25. The CD3 platform is a Mazda 6 chassis used in several Ford vehicles and the CD4 is an evolution of this same chassis.

Since you obviously still think you’re right, google the Mazda K engine, which was introduced in 1991. The Duratec 25 wasn’t introduced until 1993 2 years after Mazda designed it. Do you seriously think Porsche designed a V6 engine specifically Ford, who was partnered to Mazda at the time but never actually used the design themselves? Why on earth would Porsche do this. Use your logic. You claim that Mazda designed the VVT system (which they did, along with the whole engine) yet Wikipedia claimed that the cylinder head was designed by cosworth, so there is clearly a discrepancy there. I’m here to tell you that both you and that particular wikipedia link are flat out wrong.

So, this is what i gather. You’re ignorant, think you know everything which is simply not true, AND you have absolutely zero business sense or simple logic. Do you seriously believe that Ford buys a share from Mazda and then just hands them V6 engine designs on a silver platter? Dude. Give me a f*kin break.

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post #155 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 12:11 AM
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Do you not get that you're being laughed at by most of the people here?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratec_V6_engine

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post #156 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 12:23 AM
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Do you not get that you're being laughed at by most of the people here?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratec_V6_engine

he's a special kind, reads between the lines, makes up shit in his head. buys a used car (nothing wrong with that) then uses it as a reason to dismiss the use of the recommended weight oil due to unfounded fears of previous abuse. But then again he makes false claims that I know everything, yet vomits his opinion as fact, hasn't shown a shred of evidence to back up a single thing he's said, yet, he continues.
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post #157 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dave in edmonds View Post
Do you not get that you're being laughed at by most of the people here?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratec_V6_engine

he's a special kind, reads between the lines, makes up shit in his head. buys a used car (nothing wrong with that) then uses it as a reason to dismiss the use of the recommended weight oil due to unfounded fears of previous abuse. But then again he makes false claims that I know everything, yet vomits his opinion as fact, hasn't shown a shred of evidence to back up a single thing he's said, yet, he continues.
Except you’ve provided less information and zero logic or reasoning skills to back up your shit. I bought my Mazda 6 brand new off the showroom floor. When did I ever say mine was used?
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post #158 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Get Inline View Post
Not all of us bought our Mazda brand new from the factory. A couple full throttle pulls early on in the cars life is all it takes for some minor damage to occur, thus accelerating metal wear. Here's the problem. I could easily make the argument stating the opposite of what you claim, that the use of thinner oils should not be used because they have been around for a very small time period compared to what we have used for several decades. Plus, nowhere else in the world is 0W oil specified as the "recommended oil weight"


There you go, opening sentience. I'm done with your idiotic fact-less comments. Maybe you should take this nonsense to bobistheoilguy.com and see how quickly you get shredded.

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post #159 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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There you go, opening sentience. I'm done with your idiotic fact-less comments. Maybe you should take this nonsense to bobistheoilguy.com and see how quickly you get shredded.
Not all of us bought our Mazda's new meaning not all of us know the history of our engines. Dude, it's really not that hard to understand. All engines wear in when new until about 3000 miles. This is why you will notice small metal shavings in your oil filter and at the bottom of your oil pan during the first oil change. Hard aggressive driving before that mileage causes things like your piston rings and valve stem seals not to seat properly, forcefully breaking in your engine the quick way which accelerates metal wear in your engine and increases oil consumption. Consequently, this also reduces power and fuel efficiency. Engines with unknown history or noted oil consumption are the ones in particular where you would want to use a heavier weight.

All I'm trying to do is just educate you, because you clearly need lots and lots of it. All you're doing is spewing garbage which both lacks information and any sort of basic logic, such as your ridiculous statement claiming that your Mazda engine is a Ford block. You even have the nerve to call my logical reasoning and informative responses "idiotic fact-less comments" which could not possibly describe your own personal posts more accurately.

It's OK man. We all got something to learn, just like when @Dougspeed educated me about suspension. The only difference is that he was an informative asshole while you are an asshole spewing "idiotic fact-less comments."

Last edited by Get Inline; 08-18-2018 at 04:44 AM.
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post #160 of 163 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Bottom line, to whoever has gotten this far into the thread - Just use an oil weight appropriate for both the ambient conditions you drive in and the way you drive. With DI motors, it's important to change your oil on time especially if you do short distance city driving, and use an oil with good additives that fight the shearing properties of direct injection such as Liqui Moly or Motul. BMW M engines all use 10W60 oil which really is not far off from the SKYACTIV's maximum oil weight of 10W50, meaning you got lots of room to choose an oil weight best suited to your driving style and conditions.
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