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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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2013 Mazda 6 Wagon Fitment

Hi all,

New to the page and been reading for about a week now. I have recently purchased a 2013 Mazds 6 Wagon (GJ) and looking to do some fitment modifications. I have read over 100 pages of wheel fitment threads on this page and I dont normally create posts on forums as i try my best to find my exact question to be answered on other posts or pages, however i dont believe i have found my exact answer so here i am.

I am running BC coilovers (rs) and in the market for some wheels. However this topic can get super confusing. My question is, will i encounter any issues running 20x10 +35 both front and rear? I havent found anyone on this forum running this exact size. Yes i will be rolling my guards for this set up. Also what tyres should i be running on this wheel setup?

Thanks in advance for any replies, i appreciate it greatly.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:31 AM
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We have a lot of wagon enthusiasts here. Let's wait for them to give you their expert opinions.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:41 AM
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North America never received the 2nd or 3rd generation wagon so any data you may receive from us over here will be a guess. Usually a reputable tire shop will work with you to find out. The cost is more than if you were to buy them from a discounter but the extra service and certainty may be worth it.
Good luck.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
We have a lot of wagon enthusiasts here. Let's wait for them to give you their expert opinions.
Appreciate it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
North America never received the 2nd or 3rd generation wagon so any data you may receive from us over here will be a guess. Usually a reputable tire shop will work with you to find out. The cost is more than if you were to buy them from a discounter but the extra service and certainty may be worth it.
Good luck.
Yeah, i agree, great fitment is a harder task than i thought
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:55 AM
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20x10 is a pretty huge rim. I don't think the +35 offset will be enough for that honestly. IIRC when I was looking into rims I had calculated that +45 would be the minimum for 20x10.5 including a fender roll. If you're thinking of lowering as well, you're gonna have to downsize most likely.

Check the differences from OEM here: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

Current:
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:24 AM
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Oh a side note I just remembered.

You're getting coil overs so that's good because the wagons are heavier in the rear and would cause non-adjustable springs to sag a bit in the back if they weren't specifically rated for that.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byakuya View Post
20x10 is a pretty huge rim. I don't think the +35 offset will be enough for that honestly. IIRC when I was looking into rims I had calculated that +45 would be the minimum for 20x10.5 including a fender roll. If you're thinking of lowering as well, you're gonna have to downsize most likely.

Check the differences from OEM here: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Byakuya View Post
Oh a side note I just remembered.

You're getting coil overs so that's good because the wagons are heavier in the rear and would cause non-adjustable springs to sag a bit in the back if they weren't specifically rated for that.
Yeah i have read that +40 is around perfect and i am just curious to see if the 5mm is that big of a deal that will make or break my overall wheels fitting or not...
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeb16 View Post
Yeah i have read that +40 is around perfect and i am just curious to see if the 5mm is that big of a deal that will make or break my overall wheels fitting or not...

I have just fitted 18x9 +35 with 245 45 18 to my 13 wagon. its not lowered. rears are fine. fronts poke a tiny bit, maybe 5mm at most.


So I would say that you will have some issues with 10 inch wide wheels and 35 offset which will end up being 12.7mm wider than 9 inch wheels with the same offset.



So with 40 offset the 10 inch wide wheels will be 7.7mm wider so you will need to account for 12.7mm at the top of the wheel taking into account the assumption the poke I have is 5mm.



You would need some serious camber (bolts may work) and stretch to come close to making them fit though I am sure its possible.


Lets assume you make up 5mm with guard rolling.


You then have a net 7.7mm to deal with. for that you will need camber.


So assuming you have a 235 35 20 tyre you will have an approx. rolling diameter of 673mm which gives a rolling radius of 336.5mm.


Using maths and shit to make up 8mm using camber you would require 1.362 of additional negative camber than I have which is approx. 0.55 so that gives a total of 1.912 degrees of negative camber. I don't believe that is possible with camber bolts so you would likely need strut top camber thingys.


but that doesnt take into account the actual range of additional camber you will need to add because the lower the car goes the more additional negative camber you will need to add to reach the final figure of 1.912.



so say lowering the car by 40mm reduces negative camber by 0.5 degrees you would in theory need to have an additional 2.412 degrees to reach the actual reading of 1.912.


I am no expert on suspension geometry by any means but thats how I see it.



sorry for the long winded disjointed discussion but thats how my mind works im afraid!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Rogers View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeb16 View Post
Yeah i have read that +40 is around perfect and i am just curious to see if the 5mm is that big of a deal that will make or break my overall wheels fitting or not...

I have just fitted 18x9 +35 with 245 45 18 to my 13 wagon. its not lowered. rears are fine. fronts poke a tiny bit, maybe 5mm at most.


So I would say that you will have some issues with 10 inch wide wheels and 35 offset which will end up being 12.7mm wider than 9 inch wheels with the same offset.



So with 40 offset the 10 inch wide wheels will be 7.7mm wider so you will need to account for 12.7mm at the top of the wheel taking into account the assumption the poke I have is 5mm.



You would need some serious camber (bolts may work) and stretch to come close to making them fit though I am sure its possible.


Lets assume you make up 5mm with guard rolling.


You then have a net 7.7mm to deal with. for that you will need camber.


So assuming you have a 235 35 20 tyre you will have an approx. rolling diameter of 673mm which gives a rolling radius of 336.5mm.


Using maths and shit to make up 8mm using camber you would require 1.362 of additional negative camber than I have which is approx. 0.55 so that gives a total of 1.912 degrees of negative camber. I don't believe that is possible with camber bolts so you would likely need strut top camber thingys.


but that doesnt take into account the actual range of additional camber you will need to add because the lower the car goes the more additional negative camber you will need to add to reach the final figure of 1.912.



so say lowering the car by 40mm reduces negative camber by 0.5 degrees you would in theory need to have an additional 2.412 degrees to reach the actual reading of 1.912.


I am no expert on suspension geometry by any means but thats how I see it.



sorry for the long winded disjointed discussion but thats how my mind works im afraid!
Wow! Yeah i was trying to do the math myself but it was nowhere near that in depth. It is crazy because i read so many variants within the wheel game on these cars and i see people with 20x10+40 on the front and they tuck, so it is beyond me.

I really appreciate the long winded response though, it does make a lot of sense. I am just a sucker for deep concave all round but i may have to substitue the deep concave on the front just to allow for the wheel itself!
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