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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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2014 Mazda 6 with Bose upgrade help

Hello all.
I have been wanting to upgrade the bose system in my 6 for quite sometime now. I inquired about this last year and thought I had all the answers I needed to proceed with my install but clearly I was a bit overwhelmed on finding the correct wires to grab signal for my LC6i. I have all the diagrams for the bose system and the more I stared at them the more confused I got. In a nutshell, i am replacing all 4 door speakers with midrange/highs and adding a sub in the trunk all powered by a 5 channel amp.

Its to my understanding that when wiring the lc6i up(post bose amp), its best to get signal for the main input from the dash speakers since they are full range, channel 2 from the rear door speaker lines and channel 3(for my sub) either summed to the main, or get the low range signal from the front door woofers speaker line. Any confirmation or corrections for this procedure would be great.

Also, can anyone confirm which harness
On the bose amp is the post harness(output to speakers) going to the dash speakers, front and rear door speakers? And the color codes for each of them? That would greatly help simplify my install and avoid making errors as i have been triple questioning myself about this for quite sometime now.

Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 02:49 PM
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Not knowing the LC6i (i hate AC stuff) and not knowing what guide you read, i would try to grab the signal pre Bose amp like you could on the 06-08's if possible. Feel free to send me the diagrams if you want some help. Ill be gutting my 3 GT later this year for some vintage Kicker stuff and im guessing its all the same stuff in both cars.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the reply. Audio control advises to grab signal post bose amp. Here are the diagrams, i couldnt find a colored copy for the front doors and its the top page in black and white snapshot.....hopefully its clear enough when u zoom in.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 11:08 PM
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there is no point in replacing the speakers s everything works in conjunction, if you replace the speaker you have to replace the amp and pretty much everything which at that point, what's the point
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazda6Suspension View Post
there is no point in replacing the speakers s everything works in conjunction, if you replace the speaker you have to replace the amp and pretty much everything which at that point, what's the point
If I PM you my shipping addy will you send me some of that stuff you're smoking?

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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there is no point in replacing the speakers s everything works in conjunction, if you replace the speaker you have to replace the amp and pretty much everything which at that point, what's the point
There are multiple people who have integrated with the bose amp which is my goal. The bose amp will remain working and powering the dash speakers and my addon amp will power new door speakers and sub in the trunk.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jdaniels View Post
There are multiple people who have integrated with the bose amp which is my goal. The bose amp will remain working and powering the dash speakers and my addon amp will power new door speakers and sub in the trunk.
As someone who has installed car audio in some sort of fashion or another for close to 30 years. FUCK THAT. Replace it all.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by idrive View Post
If I PM you my shipping addy will you send me some of that stuff you're smoking?
im not on here much, but IIRC, all of his posts are near incoherent.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jdaniels View Post
Hey thanks for the reply. Audio control advises to grab signal post bose amp. Here are the diagrams, i couldnt find a colored copy for the front doors and its the top page in black and white snapshot.....hopefully its clear enough when u zoom in.
Actually its a bit hard, look in the app store for Office Lens, its a free app from M$ that creates PDF's using the camera, its insanely useful.

Based on the diagram in the second pic, its hard to say, but i wonder if theres a data link between the amp and HU instead of actual wires, think like HDMI or TOSLink instead of RCA cables in a home stereo setup. If thats the case, theres no way to split the line level from the HU apart from the amp, which IMHO would degrade the signal horribly because the amp is never a high end piece with low distortion.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TalonTsi90 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdaniels View Post
There are multiple people who have integrated with the bose amp which is my goal. The bose amp will remain working and powering the dash speakers and my addon amp will power new door speakers and sub in the trunk.
As someone who has installed car audio in some sort of fashion or another for close to 30 years. FUCK THAT. Replace it all.

Yeah i totally hear ya, but i dont want to replace the head unit as we all know how it is integrated with other car functions that i dont want to lose, nor do i want to spend the cash buying extra hardware to get it all back with a different unit. Im focused with what i have which hopfully will have better sound than stock.

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