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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Subwoofer and Amp project

Greetings,

Not really sure where to begin but I'm sure more questions will come to mind assuming this thread continues on..

I'm planning on installing a new sub and amp. I am not planning on taking out the factory stereo head unit. I am trying to keep everything as factory as possible with only the addition of the amp and sub (if possible).

My questions are:
1. What is the rule of thumb when purchasing an amp and sub? More watts on the amp vs more amp on the sub? i.e. 1000-watt amp to a 500-wat sub? or is it vice versa?

2. when adding these 2 components, do I need to consider getting a high end battery? what about a high out put alternator?

3. Are battery caps recommened when installing a sub?

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 06:25 PM
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personally, i always buy a amp thats larger then what i need. that way i can keep the gain down on it, and not push it so hard. so it will last and i wont fry it out over time. plus remember, its easier to blow a sub using to small of an amp, then it is using to large of a amp.

as long as your current battery is doing good. it will more then likely be fine. and you shouldnt have to touch your alternator either. ive been running over 5000watts RMS for like 6 years, and even thought ahead thinking id need to replace my alt. and the stock one is still going strong. (even though i bought a upgraded replacement 5 years ago for the car, but never needed to install it)

caps are more a band aid for a issue somewhere else. like a crappy ground, or too small wiring. instead of buying a cap, or battery, or even alternator. just upgrade your big3 wiring. upgrade the chassis ground, and the alternator charge wire. and you shouldnt have any dimming issues or electrical problems at all.


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonoxideChild View Post
just upgrade your big3 wiring. upgrade the chassis ground, and the alternator charge wire. and you shouldnt have any dimming issues or electrical problems at all.
Please forgive the noob question but whats is big3 wiring adn where can I get these wires?

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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also.. here are the specs on the amp and sub. I take it I should probably get a bigger amp?

Amp:
-----
•GM Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
•RMS Power Rating:
◦4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
◦2 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
•Max power output: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
•MOSFET power supply
•LED power indicator
•Wired remote bass level control included
•Variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
•Compact amplifier design
•Balanced isolator input circuit
•Speaker-level inputs with included high-level to RCA adapter
•Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink
•Chrome-plated RCA level inputs
•Chrome-plated screw terminals
•Variable low-pass filter (40-240 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
•CEA-2006 compliant amplifier

Sub:
-----
•12" Dual 4 ohm
•Power Handling:
◦Peak: 3500 watts
◦RMS: 1000 watts
•Impedance: Dual 4 ohm
•Interlaced basalt/carbon fiber reinforced IMPP cone
•Wide-roll, 3-layer fiber woven aramid radial with honeycomb cloth surround
•Phenol resin coated glass cloth bobbin
•Copper voice coil wire
•Dual 4-layer, long voice coil
•Double stacked (110oz) magnet
•Frequency response: 20-150 Hz
•Sensitivity: 90 dB

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 07:01 PM
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yea. id look for a better amp thats a bit more fitting. as that amp would only be putting out 600 watts wired up to the sub at a normal 2 ohm load. which is half of the RMS of the sub.

here's a few links explaining the Big3 upgrade.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/electric...c-3-wires.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/car-elec...e-4cyl-6i.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/electric...-question.html


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 07:35 PM
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That's a pioneer amp correct? I've used them before and never really liked them. It seemed to be missing from frequencies.

Typically running the amp at around 4 ohms is ideal for protecting the amp and will provide plenty of power to run a sub for daily use. The higher the resistance the easier it is on the amp. I've run subs previously at 8 ohms but it is more costly to have a amp that puts out a good amount of power at that resistance.

The sub you picked out can either be run at 2 or 8 ohms so I would choose a more powerful amplifier or a more efficient sub.

What is your goal? Sound quality or spl?

The brief description of that driver suggests spl.


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riki desu View Post
That's a pioneer amp correct?
Riki desu, You are correct! I was just trying to stick with same brand. The sub is also pioneer. I was going off of what I saw from reviews on line and the reviews for both products seemd to be good.

The goal im trying to achieve is clean sounds. Not really trying to advertise what i have in the trunk but good enough for my ears and passengers. I do like bass.. deep and with some kick.


Thanks MonoxideChild for the links!

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 02:26 PM
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What is your budget?

Other than the fact that I've always thought the Pioneer subs look stupid, I've never heard that sub before and I'm not particularly interested in seeking one out because of mine...

You could go with an Alpine combo or JL or anything else really... Pioneer is not known for their subwoofers, they are known for their head units and the old 720prs comp set was pretty good too.

Also things to take into consideration are: 1. where are you going to mount it? 2. how much space will it require to perform optimally.

I'm assuming you're going to say, in a box in the trunk of the car, but things to consider are enclosure type (sealed, ported, etc.) and more importantly size. With size it's also good to take into consideration mounting depth of the subwoofer. That pioneer has a 7.5" mounting depth which can be too deep for some people who want to save space and make their own enclosures. My subwoofer for instance has an almost 11" mounting depth, but it looks f'ing cool so I have it

So if you name your budget it would be easier to make recommendations for a sub/amp combo and box. If you can make the box yourself it would probably best (if you have the ability to do so).


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