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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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DIY: 2014 Aftermarket mud flaps

Alright so I have been wanting mud flaps for some time now but I wasn't going to be spending $$$ for OEM because at that price they better clean themselves.

I purchases these instead. They seemed very durable and even shot them with my paintball gun to see if they would hold up, and they did.

What you need:
Small and large flat head screwdriver
one fillips screw driver, small
jack stand and caulks
and awl or something to make a hole
Also, make sure your E brake is off! It will be easier to take of the rear tires if it is but I'm sure some will think it would be easier.

You should have a total of 8 screws and 8 J clips...I only got 4 clips so I had to modify. Each flap only gets two clips and two screws.

The front flaps are extremely easy to put on. The backs, well any time you HAVE to take off the tires make any project a pain .

If you have any questions as to which flap is for which side they will actually tell you: This one was for the Rear Left (RL)

Before I even started to install the flaps I spray painted the screw heads so they would match the flap and wheel well. If you don't it will look like this: if you do it will look like this . I simply placed the screws in a rag and painted the tops. The spray I used was your standard out door kryaol spray that you can find at any auto parts store and I have used it before and the stuff does not fade much. Spray them, two coats, and then let them dry. In the mean time you can prep your car.



Step one:
Turn your wheels in the direction of the side you are working. If you are working on your driver side first then turn the wheel to the left.

Step two:
Locate the two pins. You don't need these so its okay if they get torn up, just be careful not to loose your screw driver and have it bang up against your car and scratch it .




If you want to do the easy way then place the small flat head under the small head. Look at them and you will see what I mean. There is a head pin that sits on a ring. If you try to pull them up from the ring its tough. Once you get the center head to pop out you can pull them out with your fingers easily.

Step three:
Simply separate the wheel well from the body and place your two J clips on the holes. The holes for the flaps do line up perfectly with the holes the plastic pins used.


I had to pinch the J clips together so they would stay but just make sure they stay in place. You also need to make sure the larger hole is facing the front. Of course these flaps are installed on the outside but you need these clips for the screws to stay in place. I tried using the OEM plastic pins but they did not feel like they held the flap really secure and I like my painted screws anyway

I found this behind the wheel well...anyone know what this could be? It almost looks like a ground to something or for some sort of upgraded part access.
Step Four:
Once you have your J clips in place simply let the wheel well trim fall into place and line the holes on the flaps with the pre drilled holes; you may need to use an awl to line the clips up better. And just screw in your two screws and you are done with the front. Don't worry about the bottom screw hole, it does line up with a bottom screw hole but you don't have enough screws for that and besides the flap is pretty secure.

Okay for the rear:
As I have already said I only got 4 J clips to use <_< and they were installed in the front. I'm sure I could easily have gone to the store and picked some up but hey "Press on" right .

What takes the most time with the rears is just taking off the darn tire! If I need to write out all the safety precautions of how to use your jack stand then you probably shouldn't be working on your car in the first place .

I will post this pic because it took me some time to find the location of where to place the jack. Look for these two markings on the side frame, that is where you put the lip of the jack. Of course OEM jack stands are the worst to use...


Before you start taking apart the wheel well get your flap and actually install it but using the bottom screw, that hole is a perfect match. You should be able to tell how the flap goes on, there is a small indent on the flap that syncs up with the frame of the car. Once that screw is set, be careful not to over tighten that screw or else you will strip the plastic cap it goes into, the flap will stay up. Now, I took apart the wheel well to see if there were any holes pre drilled and they were so with the wheel well intact I took my awl and made a slight puncture. This area is all plastic and any mess ups will be covered by the wheel well.

It turns out that the holes on the flaps do match up with the pre drilled holes, you just have to verify how you stretched the flap to make sure its in the right position, hence the small pre hole. Once you have made two holes with your awl or drill then start taking apart the wheel well.

Locate the "top hat" nut (screws off with your fingers), two plastic pins and the one metal screw. The metal screw does not need a socket wrench, just use your small fillips. There are two more metal screws beneath that you will have to locate but they are easy to find.


Now, there are these fins
that help keep the wheel well in place, so you have to first pull the wheel well off of the screw thread the "top hat" was on and then out so the fins can come out.

Now, for most people you would simply install the J clips as you did with the front. But for me I didn't want to wait for the hardware to come to me so I found it on the car. I found these two screws, the one I had already taken off with the wheel well. They are metal screws but with a plastic backing that they screw into to get tightened. I simply took the plastic backings off and used a two zip ties, one on top and the other on the bottom, to secure what looked like to be an anchor for another anchor. I played with the back fender and it didn't move any more then when the metal screw was in place. I forced the plastic backings in the pre drilled holes and that is how I secured the supplied screws. I'm sure there were other ways you could do it but hey that is what I came up with.

Not going to post up a complete care pic with them because my car is dirty and I'm ashamed but here is what they look like up close.

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Last edited by nobouncecap; 02-22-2014 at 11:35 AM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 09:11 AM
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Awesome post! Thanks for the write-up, this is something I really want to do and will definitely reference this post when the weather finally warms up.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 09:18 AM
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Nice write-up. Post moar pics of the car with them on!

Changed Title of thread to include DIY so people know

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 07:31 PM
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I would like to comment that the flaps can be installed without turning and removing the front and back wheels respectively. A terminal ratcheting wrench does wonders for tight spaces (I have lot of tight spaces in my two motorcycles). As for the hardware, I would do it right with the correct number of j-clips from lowes/home depot as it is pretty quick and easy to install these flaps. You need total 10 j-clips (6 front, 4 rear). JustAutoTrim only supplies 4.

Fronts: So I installed the fronts with the existing plastic lock screws and used the j-clips and screws combo only on the bottom flap holes. The plastic clips seem to hold the flaps pretty sturdily IMHO. The supplied screw and j-clip combo will anyway hold the flap from the bottom sturdily. I will reinstall them after I buy 4 more j-clips.

Rears: I used the remaining 2 j-clips supplied on one side. Again no need to remove the wheel if you have a terminal wrench and hex extension. For the other remaining side I will install the flap once I buy 2 more j-clips.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyBiker View Post
I would like to comment that the flaps can be installed without turning and removing the front and back wheels respectively. A terminal ratcheting wrench does wonders for tight spaces (I have lot of tight spaces in my two motorcycles). As for the hardware, I would do it right with the correct number of j-clips from lowes/home depot as it is pretty quick and easy to install these flaps. You need total 10 j-clips (6 front, 4 rear). JustAutoTrim only supplies 4.

Fronts: So I installed the fronts with the existing plastic lock screws and used the j-clips and screws combo only on the bottom flap holes. The plastic clips seem to hold the flaps pretty sturdily IMHO. The supplied screw and j-clip combo will anyway hold the flap from the bottom sturdily. I will reinstall them after I buy 4 more j-clips.

Rears: I used the remaining 2 j-clips supplied on one side. Again no need to remove the wheel if you have a terminal wrench and hex extension. For the other remaining side I will install the flap once I buy 2 more j-clips.

I understand that using a terminal wretch would have been easier, didn't own one and wasn't going to buy one but that is great point. I also didn't want to have three mudflaps installed and the only way I saw to put a screw on the bottom of the front was drilling a hole which I did not want to do. Having only two screws in the front, even using the push pins seemed to hold it securely.

Anyway, here are some pics.




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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 12:07 PM
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They look nice - how are they doing so far with lessening the spray on the doors? Once it gets warm out I'll probably be installing these.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byakuya View Post
They look nice - how are they doing so far with lessening the spray on the doors? Once it gets warm out I'll probably be installing these.

They are actually working very well. Can't wait to really clean the car up this week!

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobouncecap View Post
I understand that using a terminal wretch would have been easier, didn't own one and wasn't going to buy one but that is great point. I also didn't want to have three mudflaps installed and the only way I saw to put a screw on the bottom of the front was drilling a hole which I did not want to do. Having only two screws in the front, even using the push pins seemed to hold it securely.
A terminal wrench is cheap investment and a great convenience and you will know how useful it is elsewhere in the house too. I didn't need to drill a hole on the bottom of the front - there is one already in the black plastic rock guard if you look carefully. You just need to slide the j-clip over that. I can take a picture if you like. Like you said the screw will start at an angle and eventually straighten.

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Last edited by CrazyBiker; 03-17-2014 at 01:33 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 03:15 AM
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I installed only the front flaps- didn't want to lower the fantastic ground clearance in the back of the car! Followed these steps, minus the removal of wheels.



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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2015, 06:42 PM
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Proper way...only way

To the OP. When you refer to an easy way and hard way of removed the plastic rivets. There is only one (proper) to do it...what you described as the "easy" way. Doing it any other way is wrong and usually ends up breaking the rivet post. Therefore, rendering it useless. Nice detailed DIY otherwise. Thanks for sharing.

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