DIY: 3rd Gen Spark Plug Replacment - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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DIY: 3rd Gen Spark Plug Replacment

Good morning everyone. Haven't seen one of these around here yet, and there aren't too many of us at the point where we need to do this, so here's a quick reference guide.

This is for replacing a 2014, 2015, 2016 or 2017 Mazda6 Skyactive 2.5L Spark Plugs.

The total process only takes 10 - 20 minutes depending on if you like to do all 4 plugs at once, or 1 at a time; I prefer the latter.

Things You'll Need:
  • Replacement Spark Plugs - I recommend stay away from cheap Denso from Amazon.
    • Part Numbers:
    • Boche: 9621
    • Denso: 4711
    • NGK: 94124
  • 14mm Deep Socket (ideally, one with a magnet for removing plugs - seen in photo).
  • 8mm Socket or Wrench, but socket works better.
  • Socket Extension, yes even if you have the plug removal tool.
  • Anti-seize (not necessary, but recommended).

Spark Plug Gap per the Manual:

Spark plug gap [PE01-18-110, PE02-18-110]
Standard: 0.75—1.10 mm {0.030—0.043 in}
New spark plug (reference): 0.75—0.85 mm {0.030—0.033 in}

Spark plug gap [PE5R-18-110, PE5S-18-110]
Standard: 1.05—1.40 mm {0.0414—0.0551 in}
New spark plug (reference): 1.05—1.15 mm {0.0414—0.0452 in}



1. Open your hood (duh) and remove the engine cover by pulling up on it until the rubber plugs pop out.

2. Locate the 4 ignition coils and their individual 8mm nuts (Seen Below):


3. Unplug the wire connector from the coil(s) that you plan to work with. Simply press the plastic center piece down and pull the plug out.

4. Unbolt the 8mm nut from the coil.


5. Pull the coil straight up and out. Should come out without much force at all. (Sorry, no photo for this one).

6. You should now be able to see the plug waaaaayyy down. Time to get it out with the 14mm deep socket.


7. This is where a magnetic wrench or spark plug socket REALLY come in handy. It's hard to tell, but I counted at least 15 full rotations for the plug before it could be pulled out.


8. Compared to the new one it's not looking too bad for 83k miles!


9. If you want to use anti-seize on the new plugs, that's never a bad idea. Just be ABSOLUTELY sure to get none on or anywhere near the plug tip. I like to leave about a quarter to half an inch of bare metal near the tip of the plug so there's no chance of any getting near it.

10. Install everything in reverse order and you're good to go!
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Last edited by Byakuya; 05-05-2017 at 01:10 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 01:45 PM
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Sweet. I plan to do this soon so I appreciate the guide. TY, sir!
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 09:06 PM
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Hi, great DIY! Mind if I ask why you did this? How many miles did you have? Did your MPG go up? Thanks!
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dp741 View Post
Hi, great DIY! Mind if I ask why you did this? How many miles did you have? Did your MPG go up? Thanks!
I was at about 86k miles when I changed them out. They could have lasted another 10k most likely, maybe even all the way to 100k, but I was doing my wife's Mazda 3's plugs and figured I'd get them both done.

MPG hasn't changed that I can tell, but I'm in tons of traffic every day so there's only so much they would change anyways. Definitely feels a little smoother at idle though.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 03:29 PM
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DO NOT overtorque or cross-thread those plugs! It's an aluminum head and pretty easy to hose the threads. If you do you're screwed and will not like the amount of work required to pull the head and have a timesert or similar put in. IMHO for removal break it free and then use your FINGERS to spin it out so as to avoid the risk of placing lateral loads on the threads as the plug comes out of the hole. You MUST start the new plug by HAND, be gentle, make CERTAIN it is in the hole cleanly, and the threads engaged before anything more than very light finger pressure is used on a bare socket extension. You can and should run it all the way down until the gasket makes contact using nothing more than two fingers on the extension. A torque wrench is IMHO NOT optional for tightening either.
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Last edited by tickerguy; 11-12-2016 at 03:34 PM.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 07:17 PM
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I remember someone having issues when they didn't go OEM when they did their plug change on their 3rd gen... others had no issues, but I noticed it was only some '14 people that had issues where generally the '15 guys had none. Of course, trying to search, I couldn't find the post, and am unsure of why it seemed to be only some of the people with '14s. I just wanted to point it out incase someone has a '14 and it seems to reduce performance with the plugs listed, they should try OEM.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 09:28 PM
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Just as a heads up ... and I could be wrong...but if you have a OVT tune.. i remember reading somewhere that you need to tell Mat or get a new log if you change out your plugs? Maybe thats if you go aftermarket? I wish I could remember where I read that.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 12:16 PM
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I have an OVT tune and replaced my plugs with aftermarket, no adjustments required and with no adverse impact. I've got close to 40,000 miles on the replacements at this point and in another 10-20,000 I'll replace them again, since the aftermarket ones are reasonably-priced and a 50k interval isn't excessive.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 05:29 PM
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Make sure it's a plug socket with rubber insert to retain plug as you pull it out of those deep wells.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 09:07 PM
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So my new to me 16' sport just hit 46K and the idle has been a little rough until it warms up. Ended up trying the denso TT plugs and switched back in less than a week. With the denso plugs the idle was much improved, however the car had no low or mid range. Felt very bogged down and was less eager to kick down and go. The denso plugs did seem to be a little more stable at the top end but i don't typically run around that high in the revs.

Went to my local Mazda dealer and they wanted $40 each for plugs. Figure I'll get another year out of the original plugs before dropping the coin on the new oems. I did find them online for $25 each and that is about as low as I've seen oem plugs priced.

So for future, go with oem plugs is my recommendation.

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