DIY: Firm Up Front Suspension with Front Control Arm Urethane Mod - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow DIY: Firm Up Front Suspension with Front Control Arm Urethane Mod

For those who can't stand the looseness and jiggle of the front suspension here is how you fix it:

Step 1: buy the Urethane window glue shown in the attached photo. I got it from Autozone for a little under $30, and make sure it is not expired.

Step 2: Jack up your car and USE JACK STANDS!!! as shown in the second photo, it is the best place for the jack stands for the car and keep the stands out of your way when working.

Step 3:
Figure out which holes you want to plug per the 3rd photo and clean them out with. cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. I also applied Vaseline to the control arm on the forward side of the bushing where I wanted to fill the gap, with the Urethane only sticking to the bushing and not the control arm.

Step 4:
Apply the Urethane, which is pretty much the messiest thing I have ever worked with, with a caulking gun. Just about nothing touches it for clean up except Acetone which just smears it around. If you get it on your hands it will be there for a week.

Step 5: Wait with the car jacked up for 12 hours if it is room temperature, or 24 hours if it is really cold.
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Last edited by solar365; 12-26-2015 at 10:25 PM.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-27-2015, 06:52 PM
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Cannot stress enough when you do this to use rubber (nitrile) gloves, have zero weight on the bushings (remove wheel), and wait for proper curing.

'16 CX-5 GT
'14 6 GT
'13 Golf R (APR Stage 2+)
'10 GTI (APR K04, 313 WHP)
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-27-2015, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't take the wheels off. I figured whatever the unsprung weight and remaining spring force is would be insignificant relative to the static weight. Maybe it preloads the bushings a little? I'll check the ride height tomorrow. It seemed a little high when I initially dropped the car, a nd had a bunch of stuff in the trunk.

***UPDATE*** I checked my ride height again after a few more days and without anything else in the trunk. I can notice it rides higher when scrutinizing it and measuring. The car now sits about .1" higher up front, really, almost nothing.

Which for me is actual perfect since I had a tiny bit too much rake to begin with. My CG keeps getting higher and higher but when I finally get the corksport springs on it will look like I'm running tanabes and should feel more hunkered down.


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Last edited by solar365; 01-05-2016 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Added change in ride height info
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 09:55 AM
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Seems pretty easy to do, can't wait to do it!

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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 02:41 AM
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So this mod is for rear and front?

Also, how does this affect the height of the car? Isn't that just doing more vibration dampening?

I really want to do this since I swear the steering is exploding every time I drive :-D

Did you get some of the wobble resolve through this mod as well

I already got rotors resurfaced .. wheel balanced .. alignment (2x) done .. etc .. this might be the solution to the annoying sounds :-)
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesxx01 View Post
Cannot stress enough when you do this to use rubber (nitrile) gloves, have zero weight on the bushings (remove wheel), and wait for proper curing.
Why remove the wheel? Isn't the suspension going to be under max drop from the spring anyway?

And I saw that you had high regards for this mod. Did you fill all of the gaps as well?
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 12:53 PM
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I removed the wheel for ease of access only.
Remember, ideally, you want the bushing in "neutral" position when filling! Weighted down or up is not good.
Yes, I filled all the holes.

This can be done with any bushing on the suspension or rear motor/trans mount.

On the 6 the biggest noticeable gain would be the front control arm though.
Manual trans folks would see a improvement it they filled the trans mount.

If you have "wobble or vibrations" before this mod I'm thinking you have a different issue.

I let a guy with a "3" and a "Speed3" drive my car hard around a roundabout that had a nice bump in the middle and they both did this mod afterward. Speed3 guy loved the mod!
He swore it helped in putting down power.

'16 CX-5 GT
'14 6 GT
'13 Golf R (APR Stage 2+)
'10 GTI (APR K04, 313 WHP)
'07 Mazdaspeed 6 (Cobb, CP-e)
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solar365 View Post
I didn't take the wheels off. I figured whatever the unsprung weight and remaining spring force is would be insignificant relative to the static weight.

***UPDATE*** I checked my ride height again after a few more days and without anything else in the trunk. I can notice it rides higher when scrutinizing it and measuring. The car now sits about .1" higher up front, really, almost nothing.

Which for me is actual perfect since I had a tiny bit too much rake to begin with. My CG keeps getting higher and higher but when I finally get the corksport springs on it will look like I'm running tanabes and should feel more hunkered down.
Common when you figure how the arm sits in the bushing with vehicle weight on it vs no weight or even opposite when vehicle is raised. This is why I insure the bushing is at center with no weight in either direction. I actually used a
jack to hold the arm "just perfect" in the center when filling.
Hence why I removed the wheel.
Either way ya do it the difference in ride height is very negligible.

'16 CX-5 GT
'14 6 GT
'13 Golf R (APR Stage 2+)
'10 GTI (APR K04, 313 WHP)
'07 Mazdaspeed 6 (Cobb, CP-e)
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyandi View Post
So this mod is for rear and front?

Also, how does this affect the height of the car? Isn't that just doing more vibration dampening?
Stiffening the lower control arm bushings is going to make any vibration you have worse.

It will reduce the flex of the wheel relative to the steering input, making the car feel more responsive. Its a halfway solution between OEM bushings and something even stiffer, like polyurethene bushings.

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesxx01 View Post
Common when you figure how the arm sits in the bushing with vehicle weight on it vs no weight or even opposite when vehicle is raised. This is why I insure the bushing is at center with no weight in either direction. I actually used a
jack to hold the arm "just perfect" in the center when filling.
Hence why I removed the wheel.
Either way ya do it the difference in ride height is very negligible.
I'm thinking I may try to remove the arm completely for this. Looks fairly simple in the service manual. Is there a drawback to this that I'm missing?
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