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post #131 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 01:26 PM
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Comment re drain plug: I continue to use the OEM 8mm Allen head plug, ea. time with a new aluminum crush washer + I use a torque wrench to tighten it up. Important to use new washer ea. time! I went out of my way to find a 3/8" drive 8mm hex bit with a great / tight fit into the hex. 23 - 30 lb. ft. torque value if memory serves (please independently check ths 'cuz this sounds too high!). This will serve well over the long run cuz ea. time with a new (soft, uncompressed) Al. crush washer means I can stay at the lowest torque value in the range and not suffer leaks. Key is a new washer!

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Last edited by Cdn17Sport6MT; 01-22-2019 at 01:28 PM.
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post #132 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 01:50 PM
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Thanks Cdn17Sport6MT. My original intent was to continue to use the OEM plug as well, but I'm reading anecdotes of people stripping the hex key hole, requiring the drain plug to be replaced at $12 a pop every few oil changes. No doubt they're not using a torque wrench and/or are tightening the plug too much...but it got me thinking...


A Fumoto valve is only $25 to $30, and should last the life of the car. A few replacements of the OEM drain plug and the valve would have paid for itself. Plus it gives you the added convenience of easier oil changes and less mess. I think I'm just going to go ahead and get the F106S valve. It's got a shorter nipple than the F106N, and while there's no clearance issue on our cars, I don't want the valve body to protrude any further than it needs to.


Also taking this opportunity to re-iterate my questions from yesterday, so they don't get lost in this thread. I'd appreciate any guidance on the oil filter if anyone is knowledgeable on that:


--------------------------------------------

1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:

PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.

I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?

2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?


F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less




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post #133 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 09:42 PM
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Thanks anyway Archerfish. I don't think we have Yojin's warranty in the US. Pretty impressive that you've racked up 30,000 kms on a 2018 already. I'm just about to break 7000 miles on my 2017.5.


Is your car an automatic or a manual? The recommendation around here is to change manual transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.
That means we are fortunate enough to have this so called Yojin's Warranty! I know, part of marketing strategy. Anyways, Mazda has a miniscule share on the market compared to Toyota and others. OVT even decided to "abandon" Mazda because of this.

My car is automatic and I can't see myself going back to manual with the horrendous traffic jam in our place. If I'm feeling lazy, I'd say sometimes that "I don't know how to drive a manual car."

They say that manual is great and automatics are girly, a joke running around us locally, but I guess I'm getting old so I prefer an automatic transmission.


Thank you for the tip regarding the oil change interval for the transmission.

I really enjoy the car and I don't want to drive anything else except our 6. I guess I'm already a fanboy of Mazda, and becoming a Mazda 6 fanatic. That should explain how I easily racked up 30,000 km.




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By the way, what's going on in this photo. did the dealer actually cut out the plastic cover that's protecting your oil pan? Doesn't look like the way it would have come from the factory.
That one has a cover and removed to access the drain plug. The yellow part is the lock for the cover. They almost forgot to return the cover last time. Good thing I noticed.
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post #134 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 10:21 PM
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IMHO MTX has a 50k mile fluid (oil) change interval. And NEVER, EVER, put a GL-5 fluid in there. Only GL-4. Yes, it matters, and if both (GL4/5) DO NOT use it. GL-4 75w80 is the correct spec.

Redline makes an excellent MTX oil that meets that spec. DO NOT use Mobil 1 or similar; they are all GL-5 which is great in a differential but will DESTROY the synchros in a MTX in ~50k miles or less.
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post #135 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
IMHO MTX has a 50k mile fluid (oil) change interval. And NEVER, EVER, put a GL-5 fluid in there. Only GL-4. Yes, it matters, and if both (GL4/5) DO NOT use it. GL-4 75w80 is the correct spec. Redline makes an excellent MTX oil that meets that spec. DO NOT use Mobil 1 or similar; they are all GL-5 which is great in a differential but will DESTROY the synchros in a MTX in ~50k miles or less.
Thanks @tickerguy. I just crossed 6,000 miles in 9 months of ownership (...consequence of splitting mileage across 3 cars). At this rate, I'm a long way away from having to change my MTX fluid, but I value your opinion and have mentally filed your recommendation away for future reference.

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