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post #121 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jcme0557 View Post
NO! I wouldn't add any moly additive to your engine oil. Good quality synthetic oil like M1 is fine.
OK, thanks been wondering for a while

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post #122 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:59 AM
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Ghost, do you recommend a good indy shop in and around Ellicott City for routine maintenance ? My HOA tightened restrictions on working on cars, and i hate going to the stealerships. Columbia,MD resident here !
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post #123 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 09:03 PM
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[QUOTE=MilR;4857833]Ghost, do you recommend a good indy shop in and around Ellicott City for routine maintenance ? My HOA tightened restrictions on working on cars, and i hate going to the stealerships. Columbia,MD resident here ![/QUOTE]

Actually I'm trying to find one too, Theres a 40 lube and tune, I think it's called that but it's in Catonsville on rt 40 after you pass heritage Mazda on the left there's a shopping center there with panera bread and you'll see a shop right by the Wendy's, I'd go there to get my oil changed, but I have a friend that owns a body shop in East Baltimore, add here usually does my work for me. I just got this car a few weeks ago so I was looking for a shop also, if I find a good one I'll let you know. I know there's an few auto mechanic shops across dobin center where Audio Connections is also, you can check that out.

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post #124 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:11 PM
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Thanks ! Let me know if you do find one. Yes, i'll look check out the ones in Dobbin Center.
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post #125 of 135 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by james92se View Post
Thanks for the confirmation. I ordered that part number this morning along with some replacement clips/screws. Hopefully the actual panel is available. Most of the sites I visited showed it was no longer available. It's pretty surprising that a car still currently in production has parts that are already discontinued/unavailable. I'm used to that in my 20+ year old Maximas and Civic but it's very surprising on a new car. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Anybody know what thread and pitch those screws are? I also did my first oil change recently on a new-to-me 2014 and the cover was missing. I'd rather pick some screws and washers up at Ace Hardware rather than pay $2 each at the dealer. I believe the Mazda p/n is 9CF600516B

- Edit -
Found the info on them if anybody else runs into this issue. Apparently it is a very commonly used screw across the entire Mazda lineup:
M5-1.81 x 16mm with an 8mm hex head and 16mm o.d. washer.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/product_p/a22294.htm
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post #126 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 09:56 PM
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Good write up, thanks for sharing.

Recently purchased 2014 M6 GS (Touring) and I will do oil change tomorrow.
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post #127 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 03:29 AM
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I'm getting ready for the first oil change on my 2017.5 and read through this entire thread. I have a couple of questions for the forum that don't seem to be answered yet:


1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:


PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.


I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?


2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?


F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less


Thanks in advance for any insight.
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post #128 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumVT View Post
I'm getting ready for the first oil change on my 2017.5 and read through this entire thread. I have a couple of questions for the forum that don't seem to be answered yet:


1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:


PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.


I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?


2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?


F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less


Thanks in advance for any insight.


Don't you have Yojin's Warranty? It is not exactly warranty for parts but a free service offered for changing fluids up to 60,000 km or three years whichever comes first.

During that period, I don't have to pay any single centavo as the oil and filter are absolutely free.

Regarding the Fumoto, I'm interested as well. I'm​ now approaching 30,000 km so I'm expecting that I'll​ have to do my oil change, cabin filter, air filter, brake fluid and others.

I don't remember any recommendations for the transmission oil regarding its interval and type. My plan is, I'll ask the dealer to change it at 60,000 km and note how it is done

EDIT:

I remember I have taken pictures of it.

Oil Filter



Air Filter



Cabin Filter



Location of drain plug



EDIT:

I just realized, you might have a different model. What I have is the diesel variant, 2018 SKYACTIV-D 2.2 L. I bought it last December 19, 2017.

Last edited by Archerfish; 01-22-2019 at 04:01 AM.
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post #129 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post
EDIT:

I just realized, you might have a different model. What I have is the diesel variant, 2018 SKYACTIV-D 2.2 L. I bought it last December 19, 2017.

Thanks anyway Archerfish. I don't think we have Yojin's warranty in the US. Pretty impressive that you've racked up 30,000 kms on a 2018 already. I'm just about to break 7000 miles on my 2017.5.


Is your car an automatic or a manual? The recommendation around here is to change manual transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.
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post #130 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archerfish View Post

Location of drain plug


By the way, what's going on in this photo. did the dealer actually cut out the plastic cover that's protecting your oil pan? Doesn't look like the way it would have come from the factory.
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