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post #41 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 09:09 PM
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Changing the oil more often than recommended by the owners book is a complete waste of money! Follow the book. Ignore the dealer advice too.
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post #42 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-05-2005, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Da 6+Dec 26 2004, 01:13 PM-->
Quote:
I'm going to be doing a 800Mile oil change but I need info on the engine before I do this..I looked and it's a damn cartridge setup but not shure if it's a 4.5 or 5 qt pan. What and where on the engine do I look this info up?
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You will find fluid capacities in the manual that came with the car, in the glovebox.

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@Dec 26 2004, 01:13 PM
How long does the break-in period last?
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Taken from the 2005 "quick tips" book that comes with the new car&#39;s--->
Break in period- first 600 milesrive at varying road and engine speeds: avoid full throttle, rapid acceleration or kick-down of the automatic transmission-

Also it say&#39;s the first oil change should be at 7,500 miles

I was told by two different dealers that the Mazdas have no break in period. Talk about goofy.


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post #43 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-05-2005, 12:40 AM
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How bout&#39; Amsoil, I used it in my 02&#39; protege` and it was really good. The oil change interval for Amsoil is insane! They say it can last 35k miles

http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-...lreallywork.php


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post #44 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-05-2005, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jmcoates+Apr 12 2005, 04:09 PM-->
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* Changing the oil more often than recommended by the owners book is a complete waste of money! Follow the book. Ignore the dealer advice too. [/b]
<!--QuoteBegin-crossbow
@Oct 2 2004, 04:52 AM


Why Your Dealer is a DumbAss and You Should Never Believe a Single Thing They Say.
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This is why you change your factory fill oil out earlier than the factory recomended interval. While you certainly won&#39;t cause your car any severe harm by running 7500 mile changes, do not dismiss more frequent oil changes as folly. Driving habits, weather conditions and the oil used can have a very signifigant impact on the service life of the oil and thereby impact the long term wear of your engine.
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post #45 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-05-2005, 12:48 AM
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Originally posted by pisadong@May 4 2005, 10:41 PM
do not dismiss more frequent oil changes as folly. Driving habits, weather conditions and the oil used can have a very signifigant impact on the service life of the oil and thereby impact the long term wear of your engine.
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Amen, I can&#39;t fathom taking my new engine to 7500 miles before the first oil change. It&#39;s like they are trying to impress you at the dealership. "oh this car has no break-in and oil changes are 5000 miles, har har"


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post #46 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005, 08:09 AM
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Changing the oil early only benefits the oil companies. I have never met a single person who had premature engine failure for not changing their oil enough (although my sister blew up her VW Rabbit engine by running it on less that an quart for quite some time).

I use Castrol Syntec 20W-50 for summer, and 5W-30 for winter. Puralator Pure-One oil fiter (best filtration, and only slightly restrictive).

A car engine does not require "warm up" before you start driving.

Hi everybody!!! My first post here. Love my 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon. I&#39;ve had it for three months and have 12,000 miles on it.

I am NOT loving my dealership though... but more on that later.
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post #47 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005, 08:54 AM
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You might want to start educating yourself.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Quick summary:

1) Higher viscosity oil does not equal more protection. In fact, in some cases (especially engines requiring certain flow characteristics) it can greatly increase wear. Don&#39;t believe me? Check the ferrari guys running 5w-20&#39;s with better wear numbers then the 60wt&#39;s. The 6i and 6s like 20 and 30 wt oils best.

2) Wear metals in the 1st 1000 miles of a cars life are expodentially higher then any other point. Flushing the oil out (costs less then 8 dollars) gets the casting material and breakin material out, and helps prevent cascading wear.

Quick UOA comparison.



Whats a UOA? A used oil analysis...an analysis of the wear metals contained in the oil...kinda of blood work for an engine. UOA&#39;s provide fact and evidence instead of "my uncle&#39;s brother said...".

UOA info at
http://www.mazda6tech.com/articles/mainten...l-analysis.html

Where to get a UOA
http://www.blackstone-labs.com

3) Oil smell, color, and taste are not indicative of protection.

4) Some 20 wt oils actually have superior additive and base stocks then heavier "old tech" oils. Redline 5w-20 has a higher HTHS number them most 40 wt oils!





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post #48 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by crossbow@May 11 2005, 08:54 AM
You might want to start educating yourself.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Quick summary:

1) Higher viscosity oil does not equal more protection.* In fact, in some cases (especially engines requiring certain flow characteristics) it can greatly increase wear.* Don&#39;t believe me?* Check the ferrari guys running 5w-20&#39;s with better wear numbers then the 60wt&#39;s.* The 6i and 6s like 20 and 30 wt oils best.*

2) Wear metals in the 1st 1000 miles of a cars life are expodentially higher then any other point.* Flushing the oil out (costs less then 8 dollars) gets the casting material and breakin material out, and helps prevent cascading wear.

Quick UOA comparison.



Whats a UOA?* A used oil analysis...an analysis of the wear metals contained in the oil...kinda of blood work for an engine.* UOA&#39;s provide fact and evidence instead of "my uncle&#39;s brother said...".

UOA info at
http://www.mazda6tech.com/articles/mainten...l-analysis.html

Where to get a UOA
http://www.blackstone-labs.com

3) Oil smell, color, and taste are not indicative of protection.

4) Some 20 wt oils actually have superior additive and base stocks then heavier "old tech" oils.* Redline 5w-20 has a higher HTHS number them most 40 wt oils!
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I think you meant exponentially, and I don&#39;t care about UOA as it means absolutely nothing. If the particles are small enough to get through the filter, then they will not do any damage whatsoever to an engine. Also, if particles are soft enough to get worn off in the break in period, then they are not hard enough to do any damage to the cylinder walls or rings (the areas of concern).

I will continue to use my higher viscosity oil for summer driving (specifically Castrol Syntec). Depending on the oil pump design, very low viscosity oils can damage an engine (Mobil 1 was not recommended for VW&#39;s for quite a while because of the oil pump design, which required a minimum viscosity). I do not believe for one second that higher viscosity oils can damage an engine at all (over 150 degrees F, they all are like water). Don&#39;t even bring up professional racing engines, as they have no bearing on normal everyday driving. Performance is the only concern there, not longevity.

I will also add the reason you want to vary your RPM&#39;s during break in, is to prevent the pistons "reaching" to the same spot in the cylinders, as this can create a small ridge in the cylinder that when the piston reaches past that point, the rings can chip.

I don&#39;t care if people change thneir oil ever 50 miles. It&#39;s just a waste.
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post #49 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MowerMan@May 11 2005, 08:09 AM
A car engine does not require "warm up" before you start driving.
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I totally disagree with this statement. A car engine needs at least 10-20 seconds after start-up in order to get ALL fluids moving and working correctly. This includes the oil and coolant. The time should increase on colder days (up to 2 minutes in below zero temperatures).

I can personally attest to this. If I start it and go, there&#39;s a slight hesitation in acceleration for the first 30 seconds or so, then it smooths out, no problem. If I let it idle for a bit, then go, acceleration is strong out of the gate.

Crossbow, do you agree?


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post #50 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005, 10:31 AM
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I don&#39;t care about UOA as it means absolutely nothing. If the particles are small enough to get through the filter, then they will not do any damage whatsoever to an engine.
I think you just ruined all your further arguments on this forum with that statement.

Quote:
Crossbow, do you agree?
Since the PCM actually throws check engine lights if you throttle on the car before its warmed up, I&#39;d agree. BMW feels that allowing a car to properly warm up is so important, they build a variable redline into the M3 to prevent idiots from damaging the car. Sitting there and letting it idle isn&#39;t good, but you shouldn&#39;t start the car and immediately go flying down the street at WOT.

Here&#39;s a shot of the variable redline.

The yellow turns to red when you first start the car, and turns back to yellow as the vehicle warms up and the oil and coolant reach operating temps.







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