changing oil at 1000 mi? - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-17-2004, 01:35 AM
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I'm a little leary of the FL-1A fitting Greg. My Merkur XR4Ti uses that filter and it is HUGE! That part is good, but it'll be one hell of a squeeze to get it past the front exhaust manifold/pre-cat. A little more capacity is certainly a good thing, but I do believe that the FL-820S is adaquately sized, unlike some of the stock filters on Honda motors... those filters are tiny!
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post #12 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-17-2004, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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another noob question:

what's the purpose of redlining after an oil change? should it be done only after an oil change? how many times? redline at what gear(s)?

thanks!


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post #13 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 01:24 AM
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Ummm.... I don't think anyone here is advocating redlining the car right after the first oil change as a "to do" item. We just did because our break-in period was officially over and running the engine through the range is fun! In all seriousness, 1000 miles is really an arbitrary number. The break-in process is gradual and a motor might not be fully broken in for tens of thousands of miles. I do believe that you should make an effort to vary road and engine speeds during the first few hundred miles without going WOT (wide open throttle) or lugging the engine. Beyond that just have fun with your car.
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post #14 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 07:24 AM
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The most important thing to do is VARY THE RPM. I'd avoid redlining the car if possible, but try and go through the entire power range...don't use cruise control, don't sit at 2k rpm for an hour, etc. (For first 600-1000 miles)

You want to make sure you flex the car's entire powerband early on, so everything seats properly.

Paul,

84fordman was running the Fram X2 for awhile, which I think is about the same length. Either way, G-cubed is the guinea pig! Not me!

There are some sites which will point out an engine should be broken in as hard as possible, and while their arguments have some merit, I like to err on the combination of their theories and Mazda's.

1) Vary the Rpm Through the Entire Powerband.
2) Avoid prolonged similar rpm's or cruise control. You have 4-5 gears, use them.
3) Avoid harsh takeoffs/stops.
4) Change your oil earlier then the original manufacturers spec's if you want peace of mind.

What I basically did on the way home from the dealership was get on the highway and take the longest possible route home. I drove in the slow lane, and when no one was in front of me, or behind me, I'd swap to a lower gear and slow down to around 2k rpm, then bring her slowly up to around 5-6k, then let the engine slowly brake down to 2k rpm again, repeat 2-3x, then cruise (Not cruise control) for 5 minutes, repeat. I actually changed the oil the second I got home (120 miles)...but I'm insane like that.

I got some pretty weird looks, and who knows if it did anything..I guess we'll see when I dyno in 10k miles or so.





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post #15 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 10:56 AM
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i am of the school of use the entire rpm range... for the people who say to keep it under 3-4k for the first x amt of miles, i think thats absolute garbage, you should break in the car how you want to drive it for the rest of its life. (albeit not as hard, but hit every rpm you can) I have seen engines torn about at 150k, side by side, with one person grannying it and one person driving it (same service records/intervals), and usually the person who drives it, varying ENTIRE RPM range, etc, has a higher post break in HP number as well as better looking internals

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post #16 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 07:13 PM
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When you buy YOUR car the clock starts in respect to 3 mts. 3000 miles or 5 mts 5,000 miles.

The hardest thing on engine parts is starting a car and not driving it. Not warming the car to driving temperatures.

Ask yourself another question. You know when you bought your car. Do you know when the car was delivered to the dealer? For the price of an oil change isn't it worth it?
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post #17 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-07-2004, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by pisadong@Aug 16 2004, 11:35 PM
I'm a little leary of the FL-1A fitting Greg. My Merkur XR4Ti uses that filter and it is HUGE! That part is good, but it'll be one hell of a squeeze to get it past the front exhaust manifold/pre-cat. A little more capacity is certainly a good thing, but I do believe that the FL-820S is adaquately sized, unlike some of the stock filters on Honda motors... those filters are tiny!
[snapback]292831[/snapback]
The last time I changed the oil in my wifes 02 TL, the parts guy gave me an even smaller filter than the one I had been using previously. He assured me it was the right one, and that there had been a change to the current filter. The o-ring barely fits up to base of the filter housing! I hope it is doing it's job, I usually go 5 to 7k between changes on that car with Mobile 1.
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post #18 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-12-2004, 09:39 PM
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So did you guys ever install the FL-1A, and what were the results?

I'm a newbie and will pass 1K miles this week, so I would like to do the change. Also I haven't been under the car yet, but since there is no HOW TO I figure it is pretty easy access to the oil filter?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
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post #19 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-13-2004, 07:28 PM
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Re changing a 6s oil filter:
The local auto parts store sells an inexpensive tool designed specifically for Motorcraft oil filters that fits directly on a 3/8" drive ratchet. A good thing, because it wasn't obvious how I could use a generic strap wrench on that filter.

Do any of you have good ideas how to collect the oil from the filter when removing it, before it runs down the block, onto the exhaust manifold, and down my arm?

It was a very tight fit getting the oil filter between exhaust manifold and frame member. Is that true for everybody's 6s?
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post #20 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 08:42 PM
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proves true for me. The K&N filter rubs during removal/install. The stock filter and the cap style filter wrench wouldn't fit when I took it off.


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