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Need help-dash haywire-won't start.

4K views 29 replies 5 participants last post by  Archerfish 
#1 ·
I'm stranded...Drove for 2 miles and parked the car. Tried to start it again and the dash went nuts and it won't start. Now I get nothing; no dash lights or accessories.



Help.
 
#4 ·
I put a charger on the battery and the voltage meter shows 12.9. Everything is normal when I turn the key to ACC, but then nothing when I turn to Start. The dash goes black.


Then, after I turn the key to Off and remove it, the tach and speedo needles do a complete swing clockwise and then return.
 
#29 ·
I have a similar problem with 2010 Mazda 6 ....While driving, radio, AC, and wipers went out and after shutting engine off, When trying to start, the dash hands swing, and dash lights up but no click or any thing now...(battery is 12.6 v) but at first engine was trying to turn slowly ...I'm wondering about the starter now...or alternator. This is 2nd time this has happened...first time I replaced battery and it started working again but now I have a new battery. Can anybody suggest what part to throw at it now, Alternator or starter ? I've been under and all over engine looking for possible bad ground.
 
#6 ·
It sounds like a ground issue or corrosion. It could also be a bad battery not providing enough cranking amps even though it's holding a charge. Mine did it when i first got the car used. It had a taller battery than factory and was hitting the hood. Needles went everywhere and was acting funny.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Oh nevermind about the battery, you responded while I was typing that lol. I'd definitely check the grounds. Also may sound funny but while there make sure the starter power wire and the starter itself is tight so it's making a good ground.
 
#8 ·
My girlfriend just texted and said "it's probably your alternator." I'll just say "yeah."


But I don't think it's the alternator. Not going to tell her that, because I'm on thin ice as it is...
 
#9 ·
Situation is this: Turn key to ACC and the dash lights up like normal. Turn key to START and everything goes black (and there's no starter noise or clicking.) Turn the key back to ACC and everything remains black. Turn the key OFF and remove, and the gauge needles swing all the way to the right and then back.


Thought it might be the battery so I bought a new one and installed it today. No improvement.
 
#11 ·
It has had a small electrical problem. For a long time, the passenger side power window was not operational from the driver's side switch panel. The issue would come and go like it depended on the weather.


Lately the driver's side window switch had become quirky too. Any idea where the ground is for these circuits and where it's located?
 
#14 ·
That sounds like corrosion or the switch is going out and I would think totally un related to the starting issue. Your main focus should be the engine grounds and anything related under the hood. Follow the grounds and physically touch and wiggle each one. Follow the big red wire to the started and wiggle that one. While there, make sure the starter is tight.

I would also suggest that you take the ground wires off, wire wheel the paint away from the bolt hole to make a better ground and then hit it with clear coat once tight. At times the paint is so thick that it could cause connection issues. Clean and inspect all grounds.

Oh did I say to check your grounds??:wink2:
 
#16 · (Edited)
Looking at your battery, you have 1 there. Follow the path of the black and gray wire. It should have a connection close if not on the strut tower right next to the battery. This is a spliced looking piece from factory. It then goes down towards the block. I was wrong about the red wire. I believe from the factory it's black and red wires that leads to the fuse box and starter.

Edit:There are also many others throughout the engine bay. It's best to make sure all connections are good and not broken like many of the 1st gens.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I just had a voltmeter, and tested both terminals of the starter relay. I'd turn the key to ON and check for battery voltage.


Then I heard a bunch of crazy ticking. It was the trunk opener relay. (What does this mean?)


I checked that first ground point. It looks like new.


.
 
#19 ·
Process of elimination,,,It must be the "S" terminal. And I don't have voltage at the "S" terminal when the key is turned to start.


Going to need a plan, starting to get tired here.


.
 
#23 ·
Tried to start it again after an hour and same problem. I removed that first ground connection (close to the negative battery terminal) and sanded away the paint. Then everything was cleaned with a wire brush and sand paper (everything.)
 

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#25 ·
Well that sucks. Keep us posted on what it was. It may help someone else out in the future.
 
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#28 ·
And it's back. The shop said it was a bad terminal clamp on the positive battery cable. The part was $4.99. It looked perfectly fine to me.

[]
Bad terminal clamp?!? To think that you have gone to all that hassle when it's just an easy fix!

Well, who am I to speak? I had one experience to my old car that it won't start. I left it overnight to a shop and got it the following morning. They won't charge me for the fix. After two days, the car won't run again. The lights are coming on but won't start. I called for help. The guy checked the starter and it's good. Every relay is also good. It was by "chance" when he found out that I have a loose ground terminal to my transmission.

I think that's why the shop won't charge me for the fix last time. I suspect that the car started when they checked it.

[emoji3]
 
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