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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Electric Windows (but with a difference)

Hope you good people can help...

Recently I shut the rear door to hear a tinkling sound which sounded like something coming loose and finding its way down the inside of the door. Then I noticed that rear window wouldnt work.
Shortly afterwards the same thing happened when closing the opposite rear door and that window stopped working too.
Tonight my passenger shut their door only to hear a tinkling sound again...yep, I now only have the driver's side operating.
None of the malfunctioning windows work from either the drivers panel or their own switch.

I know about the reset procedure and have used this when the battery has gone flat - this does not work here.

The window lock button has no effect.

The tinkling sound obviously means something has come apart internally and this will mean taking the panels off each door...before I did this have any of you folks experienced similar and could helpfully point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance,

Gowza
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 04:36 PM
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Sounds mechanical to me. I would suggest trying to hear if the motor runs but window doesn't when you press the switch. That would likely go you narrow it down. I'd pull the rear door card and see what you can see when it's opened up.

Alex
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, the drivers door switches light up as normal and when pressed there's a definite drain - a slight dimming of the main and interior lights (if on) however no window movement or whirring of the motor at all.

I've heard 'door card' mentioned before and have been scouring the web without success - what exactly is a door card please?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 03:29 AM
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@Gowza Door card is the English term for door panel. It is really interchangeable these days with global media and just means the interior piece that covers all the door internals.


There is a screw under the armrest cup (pull up the loosely glued fabric to reveal), there is one behind the door lever and another one inside the lower courtesy light (front doors). Once the screws are out (and possibly the tweeter from the upper front corner) then it is just a quick controlled yank to separate the bottom of the panel and then lift up to clear the window channel once all the clips are released. You will have to disconnect the plugs for the door lock, speaker, and window controls (and courtesy light for front door) before clearing it from the car.
The 06-08 panel (card) is a little different with a (2?) screw behind the vertical handle.
You tube can help you with this task as well as the forum.


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Many thanks, I thought that's what it referred to but didn't want to assume.

Been watching vids on YouTube and getting the panel off seems straightforward albeit a tad fiddly. Some vids helpfully show removall of the inner panel/moulding/soundproofing etc.

Will attempt once I'm rid of this man-flu!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 03:09 PM
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It sounds like perhaps you have a failed regulator that froze and broke the control wire. Sorry for the confusion with door card. I think you'll need to take it off to figure out what's going on. Regardless I doubt it is electrical.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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No apology needed, appreciate your very helpful replies.

I'm out of touch with alternative terms as despite me doing the servicing, all that's played up with this car in 5.5 years & 75000 miles is a sticking rear brake caliper (solved by rotating the piston) and a blown headlight bulb. It's by far been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had.

I mentioned the windows to a mechanic (well, more a parts fitter) a few weeks ago and with no explanation suggested the regulator...at a cost of over £200 each + labour + vat!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gowza View Post
No apology needed, appreciate your very helpful replies.

I'm out of touch with alternative terms as despite me doing the servicing, all that's played up with this car in 5.5 years & 75000 miles is a sticking rear brake caliper (solved by rotating the piston) and a blown headlight bulb. It's by far been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had.

I mentioned the windows to a mechanic (well, more a parts fitter) a few weeks ago and with no explanation suggested the regulator...at a cost of over £200 each + labour + vat!
I don't remember what the regulators cost but it does take a bit of labor to get all the way into the door. Most of the job is labor when it comes to replacing them.

Alex
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