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FINALLY! Remote Start with Secure Takeover

65K views 98 replies 31 participants last post by  Obzen 
#1 ·
Got a remote start installed that works awesome on my ‘16 M6. It works with the factory key fob (important to me since I don’t carry keys) AND the car DOES NOT shut off when you get in, which has always been a sticking point with Mazda’s. Here a quick video I took that shows what I installed and how it works:


 
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#51 ·
So, from what I've read, this will work with the Sport trim, right? But, I would like to hear it from people who actually have the Sport model. Has anyone here who doesn't have the unlock button on the door handle installed this? And did it work?
 
#54 ·
I just did the install myself over the weekend. I did have to buy the additional adapter to program myself ($25) but now I can update and reprogram to any other cars if I trade in. The install was extremely easy. I wanted to see if I could do strictly plug and play without splicing any wires. Found out you can. The parking lights still flash when it starts but do not stay on while running. This makes the install way easier as previously stated the wires for the parking lights are extremely short and I did not want to try and cut into them if I didn’t have to. Everything works great. Highly recommended.

I found the best price from lockdown security in Canada but there were postal strikes that delayed delivery.

I have a 2014 Touring with the push to start but without the door handle button and everything works great.
 
#56 ·
So far I've been mostly happy with the system. It did stop working for some reason earlier this week. The car registered the lock/unlock/lock commands but no remote start. It also then didn't blink out any error codes (it flashes the parking lights to display errors). Disconnected and reconnected the battery and it came back so we'll see how it fares.

I have found the range of the remote hit and miss. Sometimes it works from surpassingly far away, sometimes less than 50 feet. I'm considering just adding the DroneMobile module on my own, looks like it doesn't require reprogramming the start module and is really just a plugin it in, mount it and register the module with the provider type deal. Reading up on people's complaints about the DroneMobile system first as really crappy reviews are the main reason I opted not to use the MazdaMobile starter. I see they have an Alexa skill but it looks kinda limited. Would love for an API to be available and/or an ITTT integration.
 
#58 ·
A strange issue popped up with my remote start (Compustar FT-DC3-LC). Yesterday morning, the car did not start using the Lock>Unlock>Lock sequence. I thought the module had failed, until I accidentally figured out that now it is remote starting with the sequence Unlock>Lock>Unlock, which shouldn't even be an option at least according to the manuals I've been able to find online. I'm taking it in to have it looked at, but now I'm probably going to buy the weblink module so I can program options myself if I need to.
 
#59 ·
I’m having this issue too. First time I noticed it wasn’t starting, I pulled battery and it worked normally for a few days. Noticed again this week and tried u/l/u and found that to work. I’m wondering if the proximity lock function on that car is a factor.

I’m going to have the Drone Mobile add on installed this week which will hopefully make it a non issue but I will bring it up with the installer and see if it’s a programming adjustment.
 
#60 ·
So, I had my installer look at it and they were scratching their collective heads a little on why the Unlock>lock>Unlock sequence was working, saying they had never seen that happen. They reflashed the starter module and reprogrammed. We'll see how it goes...
 
#61 ·
Wow, cool!
Checked ebay right away as I am not from the US, cannot go to a local store.

Sad thing is I need to order it from 3 different stores, parts total cost 300 dollars and another 200 for shipping and customs... :(
 
#62 ·
I have a Fortin Evo One remote starter in my Canadian 2018 GT (equivalent of a us GTR) and unfortunately, the secure key takeover has to be disabled.

When enabled, the front radar cannot be initialized and you get an error message when doing the takeover. The radar cannot be reenabled after that unless you stop and start the car. So no radar cruise control and no automatic braking when remote starting.

I asked the installer to redo the installation without the takeover, so when I open the door, the engine stops.

Fortin's technical support was involved and they weren't able to solve the problem. Maybe with a future firmware. The shop that made the installation will call me back if that happens, but I'm not holding my breath.


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#65 ·
I've had the following error message displayed in the multi information display : Front Radar Sensor System Malfunction.

The message was displayed right after the takeover and every time I tried to enable the adaptative cruise control after that.

Everything worked normally after restarting the car or when starting the car with the push button (without remote starting).

This must be related to the fact that the 2018 has a new radar system with stop and go.


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#66 ·
This must be related to the fact that the 2018 has a new radar system with stop and go.

My ‘18 GTR with compustar doesn’t do this, post takeover works. Wonder what’s different between the 2 systems, maybe there’s an enable CANbus call for the radar system that isn’t happening for you.

For me the only goofy takeover related thing is that before takeover happens, the TPMS light is on. Goes out after takeover but threw me the first week or so.
 
#64 ·
Since adding the DroneMobile module I’ve noticed that it thinks that doors are unlocked and open when they are closed and the usual proximity lock happens. Sending a lock command from the app then shows the closed/lock state correctly. This doesn’t seem to inhibit remote starts but is annoying to see the incorrect status all the time.
 
G
#68 ·
Anyone have the part number for the extra weblink harness to program?


Also, where is the actual harness that I disconnect to install this? The manual online for the unit is worthless. I have the CM-DC3 and the MA3 T-harness.
 
G
#70 ·
Can we confirm that the below included part #’s will work on my 2018 Signature? Anything else I need?

- Compustar FT-DC3-LC remote start module
OR
- iDatastart FT-900s-HCF remote start module
- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness

I couldn’t find any difference between the FT-DC3 and FT-900 module, aren’t they same company?
 
#71 ·
Can we confirm that the below included part #’s will work on my 2018 Signature? Anything else I need?



- Compustar FT-DC3-LC remote start module

OR

- iDatastart FT-900s-HCF remote start module

- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness



I couldn’t find any difference between the FT-DC3 and FT-900 module, aren’t they same company?


You’ll need the USB interface module to program the FT-DC3. Part: ADS-USB

http://compustar.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/45

You’ll also need to splice a few wires for the hood sensor and parking lights so tools and splice hardware of your choice.
 
#74 ·
I wish I would have known that secure takeover with remote start was possible before I saw this thread.

When I purchased my 2018 Mazda 6 last year, the dealer offered to install after-market remote start in my car as part of the deal. They installed a Fortin EVO-ALL remote start that works with my Mazda 6 factory remote. Later, I had them also add in smartphone remote-start, and they used Viper for that. I don't know much about remote-start systems, and the dealer was not very forthcoming on the installation details. It is a bit annoying to have the car shut-off after remote-starting it. Secure takeover would be great, but I don't want to have to buy a whole new remote-start system for that. Does anyone know if it is possible to get secure takeover to work with the remote start setup that I currently have installed?
 
#75 ·
Hi, I have a Fortin Evo One, which is similar. My system use secondary long range remotes. It was supposed to have secure takeover, but the shop that made the installation wasn't able to make it work correctly. They were in contact with the Fortin tech support and the only solution was to redo the installation without the takeover.

My problem was that the MRCC cruise control and probably everything radar related was disable when using the remote starter.

They redid the installation free of charge and will call me back if a firmware update corrects the problem. I'm not holding my breath, thought.

According to my research, they have the same problem with the 2018 CX5.


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G
#76 ·
Ok, so I had my local tint shop install a “3x lock ALCA compustar” and a “DC-3” module. I am able to retain my OEM keyfob and activate remote start by doing Lock, Unlock, Lock. Here’s where my issues begin:

1. I can’t get in the vehicle by hitting the unlock button on the door handle. I must use the keyfob. Post remote start install, completely have lost the ability to use the door lock buttons on the handle, regardless if utilizing remote start or not.

2. Once I open the door, vehicle is still on and all, which is good. However, I see an error message on the dash that says several things like, “Keyless System Malfunction,” “Key not detected,” and “Key FOB battery low. Hold key close to start button.”

3. In addition, my camera is showing up very “staticy” on the screen. Almost as if the monitor is losing the signal to the camera. Not very drastic, but definitely noticeable. Almost like when back in the day, the coaxial wire to the back of your tv wasn’t screwed in all the way.

Secure takeover has only worked 2 out of 10 attempts. I have to literally put the key fob to the “Push to start” button and hope it catches on. Every single time I have put my foot on the brake pedal, the car turns off, regardless if I had the fob on my lap or touching the “push to start button.”

Also, during a “non-remote start” entry, I can no longer just hop in the car, foot on brake pedal, and hit the push to start button while the key is in my pocket, nearby, etc. I literally have to touch the key fob to the start button every single time, whether post remote start or just regular manually starting myself.

Any thoughts, advice? Tint shop is closed until Monday. I had my cousin pick up the car today so I wasn’t able to bring these issues up.
 
#77 ·
I’m wondering if they didn’t use a t-harness and did a generic wiring job. I have a DC-3 with the t-harness and have no issues like that. The fact that the ignition system can’t recognize the key correctly leads me to think they wired something incorrectly, which could only happen if they didn’t use the t-harness.
 
#79 ·
Is the battery in the key fob any good? Some of the problems sound like they could be related to a dead fob battery.
 
#90 ·
Gave up with Fortin finally. Updated my drone mobile to LTE module and found it doesn’t work with Fortin.
So I just took everything out and installed Compustar Firstech DC3 along with Drone Mobile X1.
No radar sensor malfunction anymore, don’t even have to press push to start button.
Now trying to figure out how to make heated and ventilated seats working from AUX, but looks like they won’t ( Mazda specifics)


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#92 ·
I have a question. Did anyone here face issues of heated seats not working completely after doing the initial programming or post the Klon programming for the compustar DC3 module on their mazdas? I have a 2017 Mazda 6 Touring AT. I'm also having trouble learning the ignition sequence. I did not connect the hood sensor or set the input configuration of hood sensor to manual either. As someone earlier said, it works fine without the extra wiring. I used the ADS-MAZ T harness too. Some one help me with my mess. Thanks.
 
#93 ·
Did you program the module before you put it in the car? The modules does not ship with firmware and you have to install it before you can initialize it.

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#94 ·
Did you program the module before you put it in the car? The modules does not ship with firmware and you have to install it before you can initialize it.

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Yes I programmed it before proceeding to read the ignition sequence everything as per the book but did not connect the horn wire, turn signal and hood sensor to the T harness and did not select "manual" for hood sensor input under inputs config in the firmware features as per the instructions from idatalink.
 
#95 ·
Just a heads up for us base model folks. I have a 2016 Mazda 6 Sport and I recently got the remote start put in. It does have secure takeover. I opted to have another person install it to save time and aggravation. He installed it with the IDatalink t-harness ADS-THR-MA3 and Omegalink control module OL-RS-BA. It was done in less than 20 minutes. He did have a omegalink USB adapter connected to I would assume the control module for a minute. But I'm happy I can use my keyfob to start it up in the winter.
 
#96 ·
I am considering installing a remote start kit in my 2018 CX-5 so I greatly appreciate the information you all have posted so far.
I wanted to ask if anyone knows if the IDatalink t-harness ADS-THR-MA3 would work with the DC3 module so I wouldn’t have to cut or splice any wires?
Secondly, we have 2 remotes we use, do you know if they both will support secure takeover? (Reading up on the Fortin installs seems to indicate only one remote would be able to secure takeover. Not that I’m buying that kit after reading about it here!)

Thanks a bunch.
 
#97 ·
Just got done installing mine on my 2015 Mazda 6 GT. Works great. These are the items I purchased and where I got them.

ADS-THR-MA3 $29 at Best Buy
Firstech FT-DC3-LC $104 at Amazon
iDatalink ADS-USB $39 at Walmart

No cable splicing or soldering. Install itself wasn't that difficult. Hardest part was zip tying the module to the firewall, as I am not a small man. Put an old pillow on the ground before you start. Your knees will thank you later. There are a bunch of youtube videos showing the procedure. I advise you to follow those as the documentation is sorely lacking.
 
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