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post #71 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike1Bravo View Post
Can we confirm that the below included part #’s will work on my 2018 Signature? Anything else I need?



- Compustar FT-DC3-LC remote start module

OR

- iDatastart FT-900s-HCF remote start module

- ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness



I couldn’t find any difference between the FT-DC3 and FT-900 module, aren’t they same company?


You’ll need the USB interface module to program the FT-DC3. Part: ADS-USB

http://compustar.idatalink.com/acces.../product_id/45

You’ll also need to splice a few wires for the hood sensor and parking lights so tools and splice hardware of your choice.

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post #72 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 03:16 PM
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If I go with the 900S, do I still need the usb interface?
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post #73 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike1Bravo View Post
If I go with the 900S, do I still need the usb interface?


If they are indeed the same device under different brand names, I don’t see why you would need it for one and not the other.

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post #74 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 02:52 PM
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I wish I would have known that secure takeover with remote start was possible before I saw this thread.

When I purchased my 2018 Mazda 6 last year, the dealer offered to install after-market remote start in my car as part of the deal. They installed a Fortin EVO-ALL remote start that works with my Mazda 6 factory remote. Later, I had them also add in smartphone remote-start, and they used Viper for that. I don't know much about remote-start systems, and the dealer was not very forthcoming on the installation details. It is a bit annoying to have the car shut-off after remote-starting it. Secure takeover would be great, but I don't want to have to buy a whole new remote-start system for that. Does anyone know if it is possible to get secure takeover to work with the remote start setup that I currently have installed?
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post #75 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 05:30 PM
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Hi, I have a Fortin Evo One, which is similar. My system use secondary long range remotes. It was supposed to have secure takeover, but the shop that made the installation wasn't able to make it work correctly. They were in contact with the Fortin tech support and the only solution was to redo the installation without the takeover.

My problem was that the MRCC cruise control and probably everything radar related was disable when using the remote starter.

They redid the installation free of charge and will call me back if a firmware update corrects the problem. I'm not holding my breath, thought.

According to my research, they have the same problem with the 2018 CX5.


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post #76 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 07:37 PM
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Ok, so I had my local tint shop install a “3x lock ALCA compustar” and a “DC-3” module. I am able to retain my OEM keyfob and activate remote start by doing Lock, Unlock, Lock. Here’s where my issues begin:

1. I can’t get in the vehicle by hitting the unlock button on the door handle. I must use the keyfob. Post remote start install, completely have lost the ability to use the door lock buttons on the handle, regardless if utilizing remote start or not.

2. Once I open the door, vehicle is still on and all, which is good. However, I see an error message on the dash that says several things like, “Keyless System Malfunction,” “Key not detected,” and “Key FOB battery low. Hold key close to start button.”

3. In addition, my camera is showing up very “staticy” on the screen. Almost as if the monitor is losing the signal to the camera. Not very drastic, but definitely noticeable. Almost like when back in the day, the coaxial wire to the back of your tv wasn’t screwed in all the way.

Secure takeover has only worked 2 out of 10 attempts. I have to literally put the key fob to the “Push to start” button and hope it catches on. Every single time I have put my foot on the brake pedal, the car turns off, regardless if I had the fob on my lap or touching the “push to start button.”

Also, during a “non-remote start” entry, I can no longer just hop in the car, foot on brake pedal, and hit the push to start button while the key is in my pocket, nearby, etc. I literally have to touch the key fob to the start button every single time, whether post remote start or just regular manually starting myself.

Any thoughts, advice? Tint shop is closed until Monday. I had my cousin pick up the car today so I wasn’t able to bring these issues up.
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post #77 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1Bravo View Post
Ok, so I had my local tint shop install a “3x lock ALCA compustar” and a “DC-3” module. I am able to retain my OEM keyfob and activate remote start by doing Lock, Unlock, Lock. Here’s where my issues begin:

1. I can’t get in the vehicle by hitting the unlock button on the door handle. I must use the keyfob. Post remote start install, completely have lost the ability to use the door lock buttons on the handle, regardless if utilizing remote start or not.

2. Once I open the door, vehicle is still on and all, which is good. However, I see an error message on the dash that says several things like, “Keyless System Malfunction,” “Key not detected,” and “Key FOB battery low. Hold key close to start button.”

3. In addition, my camera is showing up very “staticy” on the screen. Almost as if the monitor is losing the signal to the camera. Not very drastic, but definitely noticeable. Almost like when back in the day, the coaxial wire to the back of your tv wasn’t screwed in all the way.

Secure takeover has only worked 2 out of 10 attempts. I have to literally put the key fob to the “Push to start” button and hope it catches on. Every single time I have put my foot on the brake pedal, the car turns off, regardless if I had the fob on my lap or touching the “push to start button.”

Also, during a “non-remote start” entry, I can no longer just hop in the car, foot on brake pedal, and hit the push to start button while the key is in my pocket, nearby, etc. I literally have to touch the key fob to the start button every single time, whether post remote start or just regular manually starting myself.

Any thoughts, advice? Tint shop is closed until Monday. I had my cousin pick up the car today so I wasn’t able to bring these issues up.


I’m wondering if they didn’t use a t-harness and did a generic wiring job. I have a DC-3 with the t-harness and have no issues like that. The fact that the ignition system can’t recognize the key correctly leads me to think they wired something incorrectly, which could only happen if they didn’t use the t-harness.

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post #78 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 08:45 PM
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FINALLY! Remote Start with Secure Takeover

@Mike1Bravo
I'm not a remote start specialist, but this doesn't seem right to me. I would go back to the shop and ask politely to redo the installation.

The only limitation I have with my Fortin Evo One is the secure takeover that is disabled. Everything else works normally.


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Last edited by dcoulombe; 02-09-2019 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Tagging
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post #79 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 09:38 PM
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Is the battery in the key fob any good? Some of the problems sound like they could be related to a dead fob battery.

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post #80 of 82 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllPurposeBen View Post
I’m wondering if they didn’t use a t-harness and did a generic wiring job. I have a DC-3 with the t-harness and have no issues like that. The fact that the ignition system can’t recognize the key correctly leads me to think they wired something incorrectly, which could only happen if they didn’t use the t-harness.
When you say T-Harness, are you referring to:
ADS-THR-MA3 iDataLink T-Harness? The only items I was billed for was for the two items I listed above in original post.

If so, I’ll definitely bring it up to them.
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