Tail lights dead :( back to stock and the dealer... - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-17-2007, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Answer: From bottom. see 3-4 posts below
Edit
I need to fix the wire I cut in the hood fuse box to look stock. Where he wires go in the fuse box end they have the female flange connecotrs (cant remeber what there called) that actually connect to the the relay studs (male part ... They are stuck in the relay mounts through the bootom of the fuse inner frame box with a plastic clip holding them on but I cant get the the on I need out. Smaller wire on fog relay. Dont know if the clip is released from top or bottom. Any help?
Edit BOTTOM!
btw female blade connector is what I ment.

Answer: Nobody has said anything to this one = scary -> back to stock and to the dealer
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I was trying to do the mod where you hook your fogs to your parking light relay so they can be on while brights are on or while parkinglights are on. Well I did something bad and now the parking lights and tails dont come on at all neither do the radio lights. I have checked all fuses inside and outside fuse boxes (with ohm meter) and I have swapped relays to check them. The steering column switch seems to be doing what iti is supposed to. I dont think the headlight level adjustment works wither. I was following instructions for this mod as shown in the forum but the speed6 is different so I had to wing and I fu*ked something up. I plugged the fog power wire into someting wrong on the tail relay side. I have narrowed it down to the wire leaving the tail relay. I dont see how I melted it so there must be something im missing.

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-18-2007, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone in the area want to let me borrow the plastic peice that goes above the hood fuse panel? I put a hole in mine so that I could have my boost gauge sensor in there. I figure that will give dealer reason to deny me service as even if I moved the sensor I have an 1/8 hole in the top of it for the pressure tobe outlet. I dont want to have to pay for one so I would love if someone could help me out. Im willing to buy a fender roller and let you use it for this favor.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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How do I release the forlk / flange female connector whatever there called in the hood relay fuse box? So they can be pulled out and the connectore replaced.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 10:32 PM
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id be very interrested to know... i have to replace a wire that I fried...


free bump for you!

Mazda 6 S 2004
Current Mods: AEM CAI, Silver Painted Calipers, 35% Windows Tint, Rotora Front & Rear Brake Pad, Starter, Low beam Meccatune 8300K, Fog Meccatune 6500K, Tanabe Strut Tower Bar, Grounded Chassis, HC3 Hurricane Voltage Stabilizer, Slotted F&R EBC Rotors, Chrome Clear Tailight, Side Skirt, Custom leather seat, Angel Eyes, Retrofit Bosch Projector, B-Quiet, Luminated Door sills, 18" Motegi DP12 hyperblack

Future (spring 07): Front Sport bumper, Mazdaspeed Springs (not installed), Koni Yellow shocks, engine mount.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the bump. I got it out. Felt like surgery. So to release you seperate fuse panel 'inner frame' into its 2 parts (this is after remove whole frame from housing and main wire clip on left). There are two clips under the whole 'inner frame' that you have to feel out and then the two of this 'frame' can be seperated . At that point locate the wire. connector. Look at the top and take notice of which side the larger slot in center is that is same side as the clip on bottom. If your already lost pm me. il get back fast if im on.

To do it right I imagine you push up on wire to free from clip then stick in. Idealy a flat screwdiver head moddified to fit just the width of the bottom of the slot but have a shallow enough plane to insert and push clip down without wedging connector itself to much so it can be pulled down. Right tool with a lil wiggle youll be able to puld down a lil, pull out tool and pull wire the rest of the way (all from the bottom) and your all set. My problem was part due to working from top first and not pushing up on wire to free connector from clip. so it can be dine without making it look like it was done.

The connector is a machine crimp so hard to match it up plus crimps were off as reel for the machine that pressed them so really clean and no solder. S I had to just soler wires back together and hide it up in the slot. So so long as 'they' dont pull that specific connector... My excuse if they do is to say something about 'it looks like somoene was working in there before' is "What, So, your saying this happened before???" Wish me luck. Bought $50 in parts to make it look stock again. No more following others people directions modding my fogs anymore.

Red MS6 GT - BNR - Cobb AP - JBR WP - Spearco FMIC - MAC EBCS - Synapse BOV - DNP - CPE DP->MF - SU RRM - TTFMM - TT + CPE Diff Mounts - Mrlilguy HPFP - Projector HID fogs - TSX projector retrofit - LI jammers - 57Fs w/ 245 M3s - Brembo - BC COs - WL RSB
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