FINALLY done with my retro & w/dust cap compilation too - Page 13 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #121 of 191 (permalink) Old 04-20-2006, 04:16 PM
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yes, bosch single xenon. i'll check out the pics of the DOT in your how-to.

just curious, how much is everyone bending back the shield? i'm installing today when i get off of work.
[/b]
just ~1mm-2mm towards the bulbs is sufficient... bending too much will make the cutoff too blurry and will posibly glare oncoming traffic..

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post #122 of 191 (permalink) Old 04-20-2006, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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..and if you get yours from xenondepot, they prebend them befor they ship them. When i got mine, might were already slightly bent. I bench tested them to see the color output and it s was perfect- plenty of color and still a sharp cutoff. Getting more color out of them will sacrafice your sharpness of the cut off and hinder output slightly.

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post #123 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-18-2006, 02:54 PM
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now make pretend you needed to change your D2S bulb or something....can you get the dust cap off without a problem? or would that be a issue? lol this i think is going to be the hardest thing to do...especially without a dremel....


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post #124 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-18-2006, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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removing the dustcap isnt gonna be cake. You gotta drill a huge hole to get the d2s conenctor in there. Thats how I started and wish I didnt do that. I had to seal the hole back up and sealed the hole cap up. But after a little thinking, just cut a chunk out the side of the cap. Insert the bulb and connecotr first, then put the cap on and feed the wire from outta the hole you created.

Whats nice about HID's though is they last a LONG LONG time. You really shouldnt have to touch in until 3 or so years.

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post #125 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-18-2006, 06:59 PM
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i did see the drawing you made, and your explaination was brilliant. Very thought out, and i know the mistake you made with drilling a big hole in the dust cap ie. if you were installing a kit wasn't the smartest idea... but hey you live you learn, and you're helping others out in the process.

Basically what your saying is this..step by step because i'm slow, and also i need to get this done in 1 weekend, as i dont have an extra pair of headlights.

1. after you throw the headlights in the oven to finish up sealing the whole headlight assembly(assuming the projectors have already been replaced with the BOSCH ones)
2. insert the bulb, the bulb holder/retainer(i guess thats what its called...which holds the bulb to the back of the projector)
3. insert the ballast connector to the bulb/retainer
4. then put the dust cap on..approximate where you need to cut than cut the dust cap, so that the ballast connector wire, can feed "through" the dustcap to the actuall projector.
5. fit the dust cap on the back of the headlight assemly, making sure the wire is not extremly tight as to maybe damage the ballast connectore wire, and also not to loose to where a crap load of air could get in.

thats the way i'm looking at it....if that is wrong go ahead and correct me. now for my question to you mr. retro fit dude....

since the hole has been made in the dust cap...and theres a lil play with the wire, its not sealed obviously. So what do we do? I was thinking just take some of that nissan sealant which i should have left over hopefully(i only got one roll...shyts expensive), and kinda seal up the ballast connector wire(which now runs through the dust cap as illustrated in your posts before).

See now heres the thing....that might be a good idea, and you're probably saying "yes, thats fine and dandy..", but now what? do i just stick my fully assembled, ready to go new headlights back into the oven for a little while to get the sealant good and ready on the dust cap? Or can i just stick a hair dryer to for like 10 minutes to get it to work? I also have a blow torch, but i think thats a little over kill...

Someone mentioned cleaning the lenses also befor i put them into the headlight...whats the best way to clean em? canned air...i sure as hell dont wanna use windex, as that crap states its "streak free"..yeah sure..

once again, sorry to muck up your lovely thread, as i hope this benefits others that attempt to go this route....

- Danny


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post #126 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-18-2006, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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steps are right. Yeah use sealent for the hole. Doesnt have to be heated, you can kneed it into place. Doesnt have to be completely sealed. even oem assemblies arent completely sealed. The are 3 or 4 ventilation holes in the assembly so there no to really seal it unless those holes are sealed too.

Oh yeah, extend the wires inside the headlight that the were connected to the halogen low beams. Your gonna need those for the upgrade harness. Or you can test with a digital multimeter to find out which wires are whick in the headlight harness.


Eye glass cleaner solution for the lense with a soft MICROFIBER cloth. Shine a flash light after you wipe it to find any streaks. Distilled water and soft MICROFIBER cloth on reflector bowl, its sensitive. You might be able to just use the microfiber cloth on both with out any liquids.

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post #127 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-25-2006, 03:46 PM
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Okay well just for the record, i dont wanna go bragging or anything, but since i asked so many damn questions, i'd just like to let you know that i've finished my RETRO, and its EFFing amazing. Talk about bright!!!

Man that ballast on the passenger side was a PERFECTTTT fit...probably like less than a mm more and it def. wouldnt have fit.

Thanks again, and i'll be sure to put up some picts somewhere.


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post #128 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Sweet. Congrats! Definetly post up some pics. BTW how long did it take you?

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post #129 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:51 AM
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Sweet. Congrats! Definetly post up some pics. BTW how long did it take you?
[/b]
Thanksssssssssssssss couldnt of done it without your help..and the cut off is hella sweeet even without the washer mod. The bending of the sheild is nice...but i feel like i should have maybe bent it back a little more...but its still Effing sweet right now...

Wayyyyy to long...should of only taken about 6-8 hours...but i didnt get the Secure T20 torx bit that Tim recommended...and all the stores were closed Friday night, when i finally got done opening the headlight. Than i had some wiring issues becuase i blew a headlight fuse, and that killed just about a whole day(Saturday). Finally finished up with 6 hours on Sunday, + the 4 hours on Friday, so totally about 10 hours without issues and problems, but with all the issues i had, it took me all weekend. This was my first retrofit, so if i have to do it next time shouldn't take more than 6 hours or so. But please keep in mind with any project, take your time and always factor in some extra slack time for any unexpected problems that may arrise.

Not to mention about another hour to properly adjust the headlights. Make sure you adjust them before fully mounting the bumper and grill back on because its gonna be SUPER hard to get to the horizontal adjustment knobs...vetical's no problem. I'l take off the bumper today finish adjusting them, and then i WILL take some pictures...i promise!

Lets just say i'm in lovee......


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post #130 of 191 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:53 AM
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Dammit I gotta do this....


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