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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-05-2005, 07:15 PM
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The wires are already 0 gauge, so I guess the cheapest alternative is to try running another 1 farad cap...any other suggestions?
[/b]
Your running 0 gauge negative terminal to chassis, 0 gauge engine block to ground, and 0 gauge alternator to battery?

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-05-2005, 09:19 PM
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Here you go, want a higher output alternator? RPM is selling the Tsunami 190 amp alternators for the 2.3L and 3.0L, only a measly $749.95.

http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.ph...&products_id=52

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-05-2005, 11:53 PM
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Here you go, want a higher output alternator? RPM is selling the Tsunami 190 amp alternators for the 2.3L and 3.0L, only a measly $749.95.

http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.ph...&products_id=52
[/b]
DAMN that's a lot of money! i would try the capacitor first. it doesn't seem to cost near as much as a new alternator. how much are your amps turned up? are you running it full out, or are you using it conservatively? personally, i would buy a 2 farad capacitor. if you are still experiencing problems, i would turn the amps down a little...or at least the bass (some amps have built-in cross-overs).

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna end up buying another 1 farad cap. 750.00 is just too steep for an alternator...if I was going to spend that money, I would be buying the stage 1 tranny kit by CP-E or putting it towards their headers. I dont exactly remember where the 0 gauge wire is running from, but I believe it is running from the voltmeter attached to the battery. I also have a grounding kit attached to one of the terminals.


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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 11:47 AM
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I'm gonna end up buying another 1 farad cap. 750.00 is just too steep for an alternator...if I was going to spend that money, I would be buying the stage 1 tranny kit by CP-E or putting it towards their headers. I dont exactly remember where the 0 gauge wire is running from, but I believe it is running from the voltmeter attached to the battery. I also have a grounding kit attached to one of the terminals.
[/b]
Well you want a 6-gauge wire running from the alternator post to the battery. A 6-gauge wire running up to a total length of 6-feet on a 12V system can be loaded to 1431 watts or 119 amps. The shorter the length of wire, the more it can be loaded to. Obviously it's not 6 feet from the alternator post to the battery (Though someone needs to confirm this through measurement of the actual wire). If it actually gets close to 6-feet long then I would recommend a 4-gauge wire from alternator to battery. From what I have seen, I don't think the stock wire is even 6-gauge.

I would recommend the ground wires (from battery post to chassis and from engine block to chassis) be upgraded to 0-gauge.

I would look into this first before you plunk down triple digits on another cap for what a $10 length of wire could possibly fix.

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks...I'll check out the wires in the daytime tomorrow and see what's under the hood.


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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 07:49 PM
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Your running 0 gauge negative terminal to chassis, 0 gauge engine block to ground, and 0 gauge alternator to battery?
[/b]

I have upgraded my wiring as stated above to 0awg. Everything is 0awg. my lights still dim also, and i am running less superior subs as jl audio. I am running 2 MA Audio 12xls. the subs are dual 4 ohm, and i have them wired at 1 ohm for the pair. the subs are rated 600rms/1200max a piece. so that is 1200rms for the pair if it is accurate. I have a maaudio amp that is rated at 1400rms at 1ohm, again if those numbers are right, and also a ma audio 1farad cap, and when i turn my volume up to around 10 they dim like crazy.

04 Onyx Black Hatch 6i
2 MA Audio 1200XLS 600wrms/1200wmax dual 4ohm
1 MA Audio HK-302SX 1400wrms @ 1ohm
1 MA Audio 1 Farad Digital Cap
1 Optima Yellow Top Battery
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-07-2005, 12:14 AM
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I have upgraded all the big three wires to 0 gauge. I also have an Optima yellow battery. My system is 1200 watts RMS and I also have dimming lights. A bigger alternator is what's needed.

Edit: Stinger makes alternators I'm also looking into H-O alternators. I don't know how they are on price though. Around $500 I'm thinking.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-07-2005, 12:16 AM
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I have upgraded my wiring as stated above to 0awg. Everything is 0awg. my lights still dim also, and i am running less superior subs as jl audio. I am running 2 MA Audio 12xls. the subs are dual 4 ohm, and i have them wired at 1 ohm for the pair. the subs are rated 600rms/1200max a piece. so that is 1200rms for the pair if it is accurate. I have a maaudio amp that is rated at 1400rms at 1ohm, again if those numbers are right, and also a ma audio 1farad cap, and when i turn my volume up to around 10 they dim like crazy.
[/b]
yeah, i forgot to add that i have an optima yellow top also

04 Onyx Black Hatch 6i
2 MA Audio 1200XLS 600wrms/1200wmax dual 4ohm
1 MA Audio HK-302SX 1400wrms @ 1ohm
1 MA Audio 1 Farad Digital Cap
1 Optima Yellow Top Battery
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-07-2005, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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I have heard that you can also have your stock alternator modified with more coil. Has anyone heard something similar?


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