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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2005, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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My Maf Customizer was working perfectly fine, and now it doesn't. So I went back and rewired everything, I even took off the scotchlocks and spliced all the wires. And it's still not working. BTW, there is no CEL.
Could it be the Maf Customizer itself?
Please someone help.

100% stock, I don't like mods.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2005, 08:56 PM
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Believe there was another guy here that thought his MAF box went tits up also, I would give the guy over at CPE a call and see what can be done about it. Hope this helps a little...if not then.................... BUMP
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2005, 09:34 PM
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How do you know exactly that its your MAF?

A suggest that I think would be nice on the MAF is a LED showing that it is powered and working correctly, I dont know if cp-e could some how work that out.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2005, 10:09 PM
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well, if your MAF isn't working, i don't believe your car would start.

You need to explain a little more.

Is you car still running but you don't feel the gains?

or does your car not start?

Or is your car bucking uncontrollably?

I've done a little (lot) of trouble shooting with my CPE... you need to explain more.


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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2005, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well, here's the thing. When I first got the kit, it wasn't working. I knew this because I wasn't fealing any gains. I left it as is, and for some odd reason it started to work. I was definitely feeling the gains. Then I started to get a CEL flicker. Finally the CEL stayed on, but I was still feeling the power gains. Just recently, the CEL went out, but I'm not feeling the power any longer. So I figured it was a bad connection, rewired everything and it feels like it's back to stock. So I'm very confused.

100% stock, I don't like mods.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2005, 11:49 PM
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Oh yeah.... i actually read your entire thread about your situation.

I know its going to be a pain in the ass and you're going to feel like a punk, but you gotta take it back to CPE.

It shouldn't be throwing a CEL in the first place.... just be reasonable and let them know that you would like a replacement as it has always been faulty... they know your situation and i'm sure they'll take your old one and refurbish it and give you a new one. They can't afford to lose face with the M6 community as that is their biggest selling point.

Its not a faulty connection- if it were a faulty connection most likely your car will not start... die.... or buck erratically.

Give em a call.


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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-18-2005, 07:17 AM
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If your maf fails, but is still connected, the car will start, and the car will run. It'll just run in safe mode, won't rev, won't go past a certain rpm, and will feel like its going to explode.

The car has redundant intake sensors. MAF, IAT, and MAP. If one has an issue, the other two take over but throw the car in safe mode.

99.999999999% of CP-E problems are loose connectors. I think there was only ever a SINGLE case of a bad mafci system, and that was with one of the very early batches...since then every single person who sent cp-e a mafci back to test, has been fine. Its just the connectors (scotchblocks) going loose.





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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-18-2005, 07:50 AM
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I was the other one with the recent MAFci problem. I'm certain its not my connectors though, I went back and soldered everything. I drove it all weekend with the soldered connections just to make sure the light wouldn't go out, I'm sending in my box today, I'll post the results. The only thing left is either my MAF sensor failed or its the box.

That indicator light on the box would be great. My CEL does stay lit though.

Nisan GTR: 2010 Gun Metallic Premium
Mods: Valentine One Radar Detector, Garmin Nuvi GPS, Tint 15% all around, M25 Laser Jammer

Infiniti G35S (SOLD): 2007 Liquid Platinum G35S MT w/Premium Package
Mods: Tint (35% front, 25% rear), Debadged Rear, V1 Radar Detector, Pioneer 6 disk DVD changer (XDVP6), 1 x 2500.1 Kicker amps, 2 x 1000W RMS Kicker Subs, Myron Davis headrest DVD system (AHDM7L), M-25 Active Laser Jammer, Optima Battery

Mazda 6 (SOLD): Glacier Silver Mazda 6s V6 ATX every option minus Bose
Mods: Twin 8000K HID kits (low beams/integrated fogs), lower NA 13,000K HID fogs, Silverstar front turn signals, Chromax rear turn signals, Euro tails, Magnaflow catback, CP-E MAF Customizer, High Output Battery, Inverted 194 markers, 3 7" DVD screens, 2000W Rockford Fosgate system, Alpine DVA-9860 Head Unit, upgraded ground, Kosei K1 TS Rims, Toyo Proxes 4 tires, completely debadged, Valentine1 Radar detector, Photo Reflective Spray, Photo Reflective Plate Cover, Clear Side Markers, 5LED hyperwhite sidemarker bulbs, M-20 Active Laser Jammer, Painted Calipers, EBC Greenstuff Brake Pads


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-18-2005, 10:46 AM
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A scanner would help diagnosis greatly...





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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-18-2005, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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alright, i opened it up and took a look at it.
the top light is on, the bottom light is blinking.
does this mean anything?

100% stock, I don't like mods.
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