How to make and install a wiring harness - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2005, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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A. Supplies in order of use.

18-gauge wire
soldering kit
electrical tape
optional assorted crimp male terminals
drill and drill bits
12-gauge wire
1 fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse
assorted crimp ring terminals
optional butt connectors
optional split loom tubing
wire ties
2 relays
assorted crimp female terminals

B. Preparation.

1. Remove the negative clamp from the battery.
2. Remove the front bumper and set aside.
3. Remove the headlight assemblies and set aside.

C. Install the HID bulbs.

1. Place one of the headlight assemblies on a clean work surface.
2. Twist off the round cap and set aside.
3. Pull off the brown OEM low beam wire from the bulb. The black OEM low beam wire on the projector housing can be left undisturbed. I pulled mine off and taped it off.
4. Release the spring clip.
5. Remove the stock halogen bulb.
6. If you want to do the glare reduction modification (removing the up beam reflector) now is the time. The modification is pinned.
7. The brown OEM low beam wire that you pulled off the bulb needs to be extended. Get a long length of 18-gauge wire and strip the end. Snip off the OEM female terminal, strip the wire, and solder the two ends together. If you plan to revert back then use a crimp male terminal instead. Be sure to tape up the joint. This extension of the brown low beam wire will run to a relay.

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8. Carefully insert the HID bulb. Do not touch the bulb.
9. Replace the spring clip.
10. Drill a hole in the dust cap to accommodate the grommet for the wires from the HID bulb.

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11. Route all the wires through the hole in the dust cap. You will have three wires (bulb positive, bulb negative, and brown OEM low beam extension).
12. Twist on the round cap.

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13. Place the headlight assembly on the appropriate side of the vehicle on the floor.
14. Repeat for the other headlight assembly.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2005, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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D. Mount the ballasts.

1. Find a suitable place and mount your ballasts. Use the double sided adhesive pads or screw them to the chosen location.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2005, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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E. Get the juice to the ballasts.

1. Strip both ends of the fuse holder.
2. Crimp on the appropriate size ring terminal to one end.
3. Get two lengths of 12-gauge wire. Be sure the wires are long enough to reach your ballasts. Strip the ends.
4. Twist the ends of the two 12-gauge wires to the other end of the fuse holder. Solder and tape up your joints with electrical tape. If you want to use butt connectors go ahead but soldering is highly recommended.

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5. Attach the ring terminal to the right side of the fuse box. Notice that I left the fuse out of the fuse holder for now.

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6. Run the wires to your ballasts and secure in place with wire ties. Running your wires in split loom tubing protects them and gives it a stock look. The purple wire that you see is for the side marker / turn signal modification that is also pinned.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2005, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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F. Set up the relays.

1. Start on one side of the vehicle.
2. The end of the 12-gauge wire needs to be cut to the appropriate length and stripped. Crimp on the appropriate size female terminal to the wire. This will go to terminal 30 on the relay.
3. Route the wire that feeds the ballast to the relay.
4. Strip the ends and crimp on the appropriate size female terminal to the positive wire. This will go to terminal 87 on the relay.
5. Cut a short piece of 18-gauge wire. Be sure the wire is long enough to reach a suitable grounding point. Keep the ground as short as possible. Strip the ends.
6. At one end of this wire crimp on the appropriate size ring terminal. Bolt or screw this to the suitable grounding point.
7. Twist the other end of this ground wire and the negative ballast wire together and crimp on the appropriate size female terminal. This will go to terminal 85 of the relay.
8. Grab the extension of the brown OEM low beam wire. Cut to the appropriate length and strip the end. Crimp on the appropriate size female terminal to the extension. This will go to terminal 86 of the relay.
9. The middle terminal 87a of the relay is not used.
10. Tape up the connections with electrical tape so that they are protected from dirt and water splashes.
11. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.

G. Install the headlight assemblies.

1. Start on one side of the vehicle.
2. Clip the HID bulb wires and ballast wires together.
3. Plug in the OEM plug to the back of the headlight assembly.
4. Reinstall the headlight assembly.
5. Tie up relays and loose wires.
6. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.

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H. Test the system.
1. Replace the negative clamp on the battery.
2. Place a 30 amp fuse in the fuse holder.
3. Start the vehicle.
4. Turn on the headlights.
5. Leave on for at least 10 minutes to complete the burn in.

I. Tidy up.
1. Reinstall the bumper.
2. Open a beer and savor the fruits of your labor.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2005, 07:16 PM
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I've got a question. I'm going to be getting HID's reeeeal soon, how much is the approx. cost of making this harness, because @xenonking.com they sell it with the kit for an extra $20, is it worth it to get it from them?

Mazda 6s-5door-Lapis blue
Luxury- Bose- Moonroof-Black Leather-Rims- 18" Zinik Z7 Adrian Chrome CP-E Mafci- Autovation Pedals-Tinted Euro's
Halos- 6000k McCulloch HIDS- Eyelids-Tinted 35 %-HW Interior
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2005, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by scottw@Mar 3 2005, 06:16 PM
I've got a question.* I'm going to be getting HID's reeeeal soon, how much is the approx. cost of making this harness, because @xenonking.com they sell it with the kit for an extra $20, is it worth it to get it from them?
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Good question. I have a stockpile of parts in my garage so the only items I had to buy were the two relays from an automotive parts shop. It ended up costing me about $10.00 CAN.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2005, 08:36 PM
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sO $10 CND, what's that about .23 cents US. Just kidding, just got back from Tremblant(love ur country, been going there 6 years in a row) so if you had a stockpile of parts, and it still cost $10 CND(.23 US, HAHA) then I might be better off getting the harness, huh.

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Halos- 6000k McCulloch HIDS- Eyelids-Tinted 35 %-HW Interior
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2005, 10:02 PM
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If you can get the harness for that cheap with a kit i would go that route

I went ahead and bought a harness as well, its just sitting here waiting for my hid kit now


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2005, 10:34 PM
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I bought one for $10.00 complete kit, Autozone.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-23-2005, 11:48 PM
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ok just bought my 8000K HID conversion kit, and i read about all these wire harnesses etc. b4 i had it installed but didnt understand any of it, and i took it to be installed like it said in the instructions and my fuse blew 2 times, then i was told to buy relays which the manual says are optional, and yeah im stilll waiting on the results, theyve been working on it 2 days now (stupid busy ass body shops). but like what i dont understand is why do the manufacturers of the HID kits advertise these as being "plug and play" and as using less power than normal halogens when, unless u have a bigass truck with different fuses etc., there is not enuff power from a 10amp fuse to power the HID bulbs using the stock wiring, they should also tell you its a pain in the ass to install, ESPECIALLY ON THE M6, in the v-6 there is NOOOOOOOOO room in the engine compartment, its really gay and annoying.

you guys are all extremely talented with this kind of stuff i give u props b/c some of the stuff u do is ridiculous.

another quess wut is the purpose of a HID retrofit when u can just buy a HID conversion kit

im about to do the clear side marker mod, is it rly hard to remove/reattach the front bumper? thats the only thing im worried about


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