LED TAIL LIGHTS? or Turn Signals? - Page 3 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-02-2005, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by leftyrev@Mar 2 2005, 01:35 AM
you only need the 3ohm resister if you have leds in the front AND the back , if you have only the back leds and regular bulbs on the front you need the 6ohm resister , according to autoillumination.com

http://autolumination.com/images/leds/installation.jpg
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Mine are 7.5 ohm resistors. if I only use two with four flashers they flash too fast.

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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-02-2005, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by briansage@Mar 2 2005, 05:33 PM
Stickey pads: What about the heat generated by the resistors? I guess they don't get that hot?

Brakes: Good tip on the brakes. I wonder if they would benefit from resistors, too.

Euro Spec: this thread? http://forum.mazda6club.com/?showtopic=30318
Ha ha... that sucks. Maybe some resistors will fix that, too. I can't wait to see photos of your install, either.

Damn! I should have asked around before blowing $18 + shipping on autolumination parts

Thanks for the picture. That helps a ton.

About this funny cruise behavior: I haven't had any problems yet, but I've only replaced the two outer brake lights. I wanted to be sure they were bright enough to be safe before going through all 5 red rear lights. Any knowledge about adding resistors to brake lights?
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STICKY PADS The resistors do get hot but I think the heat sink that encloses them will help. Even if they fall off I won't know 'cos they're hidden inside the trunk lining and can dangle on the wires. I'll keep checking over the next month or so and see how they hold up. But thinking about it if they flash at between 60 & 120 times per minute and you use your turn signals for maybe 15 seconds at a time, how long are the resistors actually powered up.

BRAKES Mine benefited from resistors. If your cruise works with LEDs then you probably won't need resistors. A quick check, turn ignition on and see if there is a voltage- should be a lot less than 12, probably about 5- at any ofthe brake light hot wires DON'T PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. If there is this is what will affect the cruise. Its the drivers side on my rhd Or just shove the LEDs in & drive the car and test the cruise. NA cars may not suffer this prob. ours don't have drive by wire ( or fly by wire), just a good old fashioned throttle cable.

Sorry to all of you but there's not much chance of pics as I don't have a camera and I'm not that computer literate anyway

The outer brake lights on Euro spec cars are the only ones. What you guys call the inner brakes are actually compulsary red rear fogs for us. Technically called rear fog guard lamps. Only to be used in fog or actual falling snow and when visibility is reduced to 300 feet or less.

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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2005, 08:16 PM
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I believe all NA Mazda 6 cars have electronic throttle. I'll have the check my cruise control out since I put in tail/brake LEDs. (Damn, who'd a thunk...)


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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-08-2005, 03:37 PM
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Originally posted by TapDatMac@Feb 28 2005, 11:48 PM
The turn signals are thermal and I just finished my 21LED turn signal to RED mod. There is a resistor that SuperBrightLEDs.com sells that works perfectly. One drawback, you have to put one load resistor on each led turn signal. If you do all 4 turn signals, then you need 4 load resistors. Maybe I should have done an install how to...
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What is 21LED mod? I've fitted 15 LED to my rear turns but they don't seem bright enough in daylight. I got some 24 LEDs but they were to big to go thro' the holes in the lamp cluster.
Hope you can help

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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2005, 08:51 PM
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Are the 15 LED's that fit your tail lights part number: 1156? Anybody is this what I order, 2 of these?
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2005, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bandboy71@May 23 2005, 07:51 PM
Are the 15 LED's that fit your tail lights part number: 1156? Anybody is this what I order, 2 of these?
[snapback]416871[/snapback]
Close but not quite. I think those are the front bulbs.

For the rear, you'll want 7443 bulbs. The _3_ is important, because they're dual-filament bulbs, one for just lights-on and two for brakes-on.

I replaced all four of my red tail lights with the red 7443s, and my rear turns with the amber ones from superbrightleds.com. They look great, but everyone told me the difference between the two "filaments" (lights-on vs. brakes-on) wasn't obvious enough for safety reasons whn braking, so I did my own rear light mod.

I disconnected the red marker lights (the trunk-halfs) from their normal wires, and wired them into the spoiler brake light. Now I have just the two edge lights on fo markers, and the whole back end lights up while braking. No complaints now.

I've also had bad results with LEDs as front "halo" lights. I would aviod using any LEDs up front, because it seems the heat from the headlights kills them before there time. Likewise, I would replace all the rears at the same time, so heat isn't a problem there, either.

My .02, enjoy.


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18" RX-8 oem rims | led tail lights | clear markers | To be continued...
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Close but not quite. I think those are the front bulbs.

For the rear, you'll want 7443 bulbs. The _3_ is important, because they're dual-filament bulbs, one for just lights-on and two for brakes-on.

I replaced all four of my red tail lights with the red 7443s, and my rear turns with the amber ones from superbrightleds.com. They look great, but everyone told me the difference between the two "filaments" (lights-on vs. brakes-on) wasn't obvious enough for safety reasons whn braking, so I did my own rear light mod.

I disconnected the red marker lights (the trunk-halfs) from their normal wires, and wired them into the spoiler brake light. Now I have just the two edge lights on fo markers, and the whole back end lights up while braking. No complaints now.

I've also had bad results with LEDs as front "halo" lights. I would aviod using any LEDs up front, because it seems the heat from the headlights kills them before there time. Likewise, I would replace all the rears at the same time, so heat isn't a problem there, either.

My .02, enjoy.
[/b]
1157's are for the front. Just put seom PIAA extreme white's in. they look hot. I didnt want to throw leds in front because of the heat. although i did put 6-leds in the parking lights and no problems after a month.


Quote:
you only need the 3ohm resister if you have leds in the front AND the back , if you have only the back leds and regular bulbs on the front you need the 6ohm resister , according to autoillumination.com

http://autolumination.com/images/leds/installation.jpg
[/b]
Will the 3ohm resister work with just the rear leds? i'm asking this cause i have PIAA's in the front and want to convert my side markers to turn signals. i assume this means 6ohm since there will be 2 sets of LEDS i dont want to just waste money, and i'm lasy to take off the front bumper right now.

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Will the 3ohm resister work with just the rear leds? i'm asking this cause i have PIAA's in the front and want to convert my side markers to turn signals. i assume this means 6ohm since there will be 2 sets of LEDS i dont want to just waste money, and i'm lasy to take off the front bumper right now.[/b]
Personally, I've just regurgitated other forum advice to do what I've done so far. As far as what you're asking, I really have no idea It's my guess that 6ohms woudl be perfect still, but I'm not really qualified to give a definitive answer. However, I can at least add that my LED rears and front side-markers have worked flawlessly for over a year now


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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 02:14 AM
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Hello everybody,

Has anyone come across 7443 LED bulbs that have a separate circuit for braking and parking? Let me explain what I mean by this...

I have the autolumination SMT Tower II 24 LED in the 7443 size for my brake/tail lights and there is not enough variance between brake on and brake off. It would be nice if half of the lights were dim when the tail lights were on and then all of the lights came on at full brightness if the brakes were applied. I know that this would be more work for the bulb manufacturers, but I think this is what would be needed for the brightness to be correct when compared to the two filament bulbs. Even running the LEDS at a lower voltage is not the same as half-3/4 on and dim.

Has anybody had any luck with LED backup lights? I tried the 906/921 Superstar as backup lights and they were a joke. There is definitely not enough light emitting off of them. My little LED MAG light puts them to shame. Tracy, from autolumination, suggested these.
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
I have the autolumination SMT Tower II 24 LED in the 7443 size for my brake/tail lights and there is not enough variance between brake on and brake off.[/b]
Yeah, I totally agree. It's actually quite dangerous how little difference there is between full-on and half-on.

My solution: I made my outer "reds" the only always-on lights. My inner-reds, I hooked to my center brake light. Now, while just running, only the outer two lights are lit. Then, on brake, the whole back end lights up with that LED "snap" instant-on. It looks really cool, though I keep going back and forth in my mind whether I should swap the outer and inner always-on reds.

Quote:
Has anybody had any luck with LED backup lights? I tried the 906/921 Superstar as backup lights and they were a joke.[/b]
Agreed. No, I haven't. Nor have I had any luck with LEDs as the front light assembly accents, interior lights, or license plate illuminators. The current state of "white" (blue?) LED technology is just too dim. However, as backup lights, I'm happy with the stock incandescent bulbs, since they don't give the egg-yolk effect I looked to LEDs in the first place for.


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18" RX-8 oem rims | led tail lights | clear markers | To be continued...
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