Ok well here it goes!
I started out yesterday by opening the box to the new kit at about 1:30. It had all the directions and warnings i needed. I had been doing some research on these kits and had a basic idea how they were installed.
Step One: Put the lights together and test the bulbs. Both bulbs in this case both worked with no problem.
Step Two: Just a quick note. I did not remove the bumper to do this! Although im sure it would have made putting the bulbs in a lot easier I didnít want to mess up or something so then my lines would match up in the end. Besides it was more work. After removing the caps for the headlights I removed the bulbs currently in the housing. The next thing I did was drill a hole in the plastic cap approximately 1 inch or 25mm.
Step Three: Now I place the HID bulbs in the housing. This was one of the more challenging things because the bulb is longer and it is a real tight space. Also I didnít want to touch the bulb with my hands. To get the bulb in the housing you need to take the three wires that come from the bulb and tuck them in between the fender and the piece of medal that forms the engine compartment. Then slowly slide the bulb in the hole. The bulb will touch the housing as it goes in due to the limited amount of space. You may hear a scrapping sound but this is not damaging the bulb. It is just the metal clamp that holds the bulb in place touching the glass.
Step Four: Once the bulb is in place take the existing wire for your OEM bulbs and connect it to the positive wire from the kit. Wrap the two wires together with some electrical tape. After that put the metal clamp that holds the light in place securely around the bulb. Then place the cap back on the light housing.
Step Five: For the passenger side you must unscrew the three bolts holding the radiator fluid on. This gives you more room to work. Then repeat steps three and four.
Step Six: Pull the wires you stuffed down to get the bulb in back up to the surface so you are able to plug them in.
Step Seven: Plug everything together so you see how much wire you have to work with. Then mount the ballasts and starters in an appropriate location.
Step Eight: I looked for some places to mount the ballasts and starter but it was hard because the engine compartment is sooo cramped. On the driver side i found that on top of the air filter box would work because all I had to do was put down some double-sided tape and stick it right on. If youíre wondering about changing the air filter in the future, no sweat. There is enough slack in the wires to remove the air filter cover to install another one. If worse comes to worse all you have to do id disconnect the wires to the ballast. I mounted the starter on the driverís side about the height of the headlamp. I placed the starter upside down on the tape because it is more flush then right side up.
Step Nine: Mounting for the passengerís side. I placed the ballast on top of the 4 coils that are visible on the picture. I used the provided metal plate to zip tie the ballast to. So in essence the coils, metal plate, and ballast are all zip tied together. The kit comes with zip ties. I mounted the starter underneath the metal plate to the left (if your facing the front of the car) of the coils. I also turned the starter over and mounted it with tape because of the bottom being flush.
Step Ten: For the driverís side grounding wire I used the bolt at the top of the car near the windshield. Itís the one closed to the battery but no touching the plastic. For the passenger side I used one of the bolts I removed to move the radiator fluid holder. When I put the radiator fluid holder back I just placed the ground wire between the frame and the bolt and continued to tighten the reservoir down.
Final Step: Take all your wires and rote then in areas away from heat and so the will look somewhat nice. Bam youíre done!
TIPS: Test the bulbs first!!!!
The hole I drilled in the plastic cap had to be filed a little bit bigger so I could get one of the connecters through.
The plastic cap was a bitch to get on!
Once everything is hooked up test it before mounting it.
The metal clamps that secure the bulbs in place were one of the hardest things to put back on for me. I suggest you study how the clamp works with nothing in the housing so you have an idea of what you are doing.
I noticed that while driving on bumpy rounds the bulbs tend to shake a little in the housings. I can bear with this.
This install took me about two hours. This is the first thing like this I have ever done on a car. So I was very hesitant and scared about doing some things but I got through it.
Since I was the first person to do this on a 6 I was granted some spared expense in return for this explanation. I recommend this kit to anyone who want true HIDS. www.liteswap.com
Feel free to ask any questions! I will do my best to help anybody out!