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My apologies. I did not take photos of every step I made because at the time I was not on this forum. The pics were more for my records and I understood what I did.
But the next step is to locate rear garnish plate from ebay. (or a junkyard). I found one in my color which was for a 2011. Since my car is flawless; I really didn't want a junked plate. So I paid a bit to get it. That's the last year I think they stopped using my color. This is important because the new plate is thicker than the ones for Mazda 6's 2009-2010. This allows room for the camera to clear the liscense plate frame. It also relocated the trunk request switch to the left so the cam can be more centered with the plate. While you do not have to go this route, I did, as it was more stock. I suppose you could try to drill a hole for an aftermarket camera somewhere to the right or the left of the request switch for 2009-2010. You just may have plate interference problems.
Anyway, this garnish plate did NOT come pre-cut for the trunk request switch! I repeat that, NOT cut. It had a slightly raised plastic notch where the factory would have put it, but it was not perforated. I used that outline though to drill me four holes in the corners, then used a dremel tool to cut into the plastic, following the lines. As you see in the photo's i was planning on installing the factory cam, but they wanted $350 bucks for it, and it was not as good as a good aftermarket cam in my opinion. So after thinking about it after the fact, I fabbed a pice of plastic to cover it up and drilled a hole through THAT. I also had my cam painted to match the factory paint just like Mazda had done in 2011. After that year, they stopped the paint-to-match cams and roof antenna's. A cheap cost cutting measure if you ask me. I like that my cam melds in with the car and you don't even notice it's there.
I located and used the wire that turns on the backup lights in the trunk harness. A multi meter is a good way to figure this out before splicing into anything. That way the only wire I HAD to run to the radio was the RCA video plug. Now keep in mind I believe the factory radio requires a 6v source for the factory cam. My aftermarket cam used a typical 12v. So I ran 12v and the turn on lead from the reverse backup wire in the rear trunk harness to activate the cam.
Next I ran the video feed to the radio. You can pass the wiring through the existing boot in the trunk and along the door paneling. The plug part that is compatible with OUR radios can be bought off ebay or online relatively inexpensively. It should have the radio harness at one end, and an RCA end on the other. Buy which ever is the opposite end that is on your cam wiring. You will not need the rest of the wires on that adapter harness as you already hooked those leads up in the trunk.
As far as the trunk request switch now goes, I had to buy a new one from a dealer. I'm sure you can get one off a junker tho. I located the two wires in that harness you see in these photos that control the trunk solenoid. Just used a multi-meter and my key fob to remotely send a signal here. I ignored the other wires in this harness as they are for the factory cam.
Note where I wrote which harness for the cam and which was for the trunk switch. It's only two blue wires, but Mazda bundles this harness all together and I didn't want myself confused!
2010 Mazda 6s GT Kona Blue Mica
2013 Mazda 6s GT Fireglow Red
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