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post #51 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 01:56 PM
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WARNING: do not attempt to do this yourself if you have no prior experience with fixing pcbs/electronic components. Ask a professional for help.

I did not diagnose the problem. All the credit goes to the great people on Polish Mazda forum: Forum MazdaSpeed
The issue is the SMT (surface mounted technology) microchip that has lost its connection to the pcb.


Remove and disassemble the display:




Unsolder and remove the metal frame:




Release tension on all pins and very carefully unbend the LCD screen to remove the black plastic housing:




Unsolder smaller pcb with LEDs:




All components:




This is the microchip. Silicon that covers it needs to be carefully removed. Use a small knife and soft metal brush.




Once you get to the microchip you need to refloat all it connections. You will need a good solder gun like Weller or similar.




Inspect for any shortened circuits / bad solders under the magnifying glass or microscope:




Assemble and test (you can also test the main board with lcd by itself without the leds and other components):



2016 Mazda 6 Touring MeteorGray 6-speedMT
2004 Mazda 6s LapisBlue 5-speedMT - sold


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Last edited by bziko98; 03-30-2013 at 07:25 PM.
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post #52 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 11:30 AM
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Great post and information! Have you tried this yourself?

I would not have suspected solder joints on that chip as the main issue since you would think that would be a problem limited to a specific run of the boards. My original had the issue and the warranty replacement (replaced 3 years 8 months later) also has it now.

I'll definitely look at trying this once I get a nice lighted magnifying glass.
Scott

2004 Mazda 6s GT MTX sports package
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post #53 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerronScott View Post
Great post and information! Have you tried this yourself?

I would not have suspected solder joints on that chip as the main issue since you would think that would be a problem limited to a specific run of the boards. My original had the issue and the warranty replacement (replaced 3 years 8 months later) also has it now.

I'll definitely look at trying this once I get a nice lighted magnifying glass.
Scott
Yes, the pcb in the pictures is from my car, I have successfully reworked my display few days ago and it still works perfectly. According to my friend, who helped me, SMT lead free technology is fairly new and was not fully perfected in early 2000’s and that’s what caused the issue. By replacing a bad part with a new/used one you still taking a risk of it going bad, just like you described in your case.

2016 Mazda 6 Touring MeteorGray 6-speedMT
2004 Mazda 6s LapisBlue 5-speedMT - sold


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post #54 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bziko98 View Post
Yes, the pcb in the pictures is from my car, I have successfully reworked my display few days ago and it still works perfectly. According to my friend, who helped me, SMT lead free technology is fairly new and was not fully perfected in early 2000ís and thatís what caused the issue. By replacing a bad part with a new/used one you still taking a risk of it going bad, just like you described in your case.
Great, glad to hear some personal experience posted here.

I would have thought that they would have resolved any issues with SMT lead-free soldering 3.5 years later.

Any recommendation on a source for a good lighted magnifying glass? Already have the Weller soldering station from a prior life (although it did not involve soldering SMT!).

Scott

2004 Mazda 6s GT MTX sports package
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post #55 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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Hey guys, glad i found this tutorial. my boy repairs cell phones and hes got all the tools and the know how to do this. we spent a lot of time trying to get the metal frame off the LCD display (that things a bitch to take off). Long story short it does work, under the microscope we found that the main chip had a few loose "connections" re soldering fixed the problem. Works like new! thanks for the TuT! beats buying a new one for $150 plus.
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post #56 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Can a mod sticky this. I would recommend your fix be made permanent.


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post #57 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:25 PM
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UPDATE:

A TIP really...

While you have the unit disassembled re solder all the connections! had to remove it again cause those pins you see at the bottom that are connected to the LCD and the board need soldering too. Pretty much solder everything that needs it! but re did it and its like brand new!
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post #58 of 90 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 11:48 PM
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I just purchased an '06 6s (85K miles), and have observed the display does not come on (or does not light up) during the first 15 minutes of so after a cold-start in cool-weather conditions (e.g. 30s F, rain/snow). After the car has warmed up, the display appears to turn on.

How likely is this symptom caused by failing chip solder that's addressed in this thread?
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post #59 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 11:32 AM
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Can someone do this for me? I'd be willing to pay for repair and shipping.
Thanks.
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post #60 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 07:06 AM
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Nice to say "just take out the display". How in the world do I take it out?? Do I take apart the whole dash? Do I take off the console, the radio, heater vents? Where do I start?? Seems like a mess. HELP!!!
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