DIY: How to add DRLs if you have switchbacks installed - Page 3 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 06:21 PM
Registered User
 
that1guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by mralexsays View Post
There are only 2 reasons you'd need a relay:

1. If you want the white to turn off when you pull up the hand brake lever. (which you said you didn't want.)
2. If you want the white to turn off when the headlights are on. I recommend this, but it's really up to you.

If you choose neither 1 or 2 above then you really just need to wire the white lead to any ignition source in the fuse box in the engine compartment using a tap-a-fuse. You do not have to use the turn signal ground - any ground will do. My fuse box had a blank position (see pictures in first post) that happened to provide ignition power (plus 90 seconds of power after ignition off) which worked well for me, but you could probably put the tap-a-fuse on the radio/audio fuse if you don't have that.
one more question lol... i have the right switchback installed just for the turn signal right now, however, the second bulb wont turn on when in the socket..but it will turn on when hooked up to a 12v battery. any ideas of what could be the problem with this?

2005 6s GT ATX Sedan:
A&M SRI, grounded throttle body & tranny, Accel Coils, Baffled OCC
Morimoto 5.0 projectors, tinted sidemarkers & tails, led turn signals, 6000k 50w ddm tuning hids
that1guy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
Track Racer
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA USA
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by that1guy View Post
one more question lol... i have the right switchback installed just for the turn signal right now, however, the second bulb wont turn on when in the socket..but it will turn on when hooked up to a 12v battery. any ideas of what could be the problem with this?
That's because we have single filament sockets, but the bulbs are dual filament. The first post shows how I modified my sockets and a later post from @mmceorange shows how he did his.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'08 Tungsten Grey 6i Hatchback
'06 Tungsten Grey 6i Sedan
mralexsays is offline  
post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 09:15 PM
Registered User
 
mmceorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southeast NH
Posts: 4,993
Mentioned: 136 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1047 Post(s)
Thanks: 1,071
Thanked 1,093 Times in 873 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by that1guy View Post
one more question lol... i have the right switchback installed just for the turn signal right now, however, the second bulb wont turn on when in the socket..but it will turn on when hooked up to a 12v battery. any ideas of what could be the problem with this?
Because the socket's wiring has the wrong polarity. You'll need to somehow swap the + and - to get the polarized LED to work. There are a few ways of doing this, but swapping the wires going to the headlight will not work (and will probably blow a fuse or two). Depending on your abilities, you can do what I did and swap the two contacts on either side of the hole in the headlight housing where the long grey blinker bulb holder goes into.



You'll have to flatten the metal alignment tabs (or just break them off if you're confident) in order for them to snap onto the opposite side, but that's it. It's quite simple, transparent, and still works with regular bulbs.

----------------------= EDIT =----------------------

I just realized you might be talking about the other "filament" in the same bulb, in which case the reply above mine (which I just saw) is correct.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2006 Mazda 6s GS | Hatchback | Tungsten Gray

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
mmceorange is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to mmceorange For This Useful Post:
that1guy (10-30-2013)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 01:30 AM
Registered User
 
that1guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmceorange View Post
Because the socket's wiring has the wrong polarity. You'll need to somehow swap the + and - to get the polarized LED to work. There are a few ways of doing this, but swapping the wires going to the headlight will not work (and will probably blow a fuse or two). Depending on your abilities, you can do what I did and swap the two contacts on either side of the hole in the headlight housing where the long grey blinker bulb holder goes into.



You'll have to flatten the metal alignment tabs (or just break them off if you're confident) in order for them to snap onto the opposite side, but that's it. It's quite simple, transparent, and still works with regular bulbs.

----------------------= EDIT =----------------------

I just realized you might be talking about the other "filament" in the same bulb, in which case the reply above mine (which I just saw) is correct.
your post was actually EXACTLY what i was looking for! but both posts will help for this project

2005 6s GT ATX Sedan:
A&M SRI, grounded throttle body & tranny, Accel Coils, Baffled OCC
Morimoto 5.0 projectors, tinted sidemarkers & tails, led turn signals, 6000k 50w ddm tuning hids
that1guy is offline  
post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 02:32 PM
Registered User
 
that1guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmceorange View Post
Because the socket's wiring has the wrong polarity. You'll need to somehow swap the + and - to get the polarized LED to work. There are a few ways of doing this, but swapping the wires going to the headlight will not work (and will probably blow a fuse or two). Depending on your abilities, you can do what I did and swap the two contacts on either side of the hole in the headlight housing where the long grey blinker bulb holder goes into.



You'll have to flatten the metal alignment tabs (or just break them off if you're confident) in order for them to snap onto the opposite side, but that's it. It's quite simple, transparent, and still works with regular bulbs.

----------------------= EDIT =----------------------

I just realized you might be talking about the other "filament" in the same bulb, in which case the reply above mine (which I just saw) is correct.
is this right?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Socket.jpg
Views:	304
Size:	94.2 KB
ID:	99577  

2005 6s GT ATX Sedan:
A&M SRI, grounded throttle body & tranny, Accel Coils, Baffled OCC
Morimoto 5.0 projectors, tinted sidemarkers & tails, led turn signals, 6000k 50w ddm tuning hids
that1guy is offline  
post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 02:26 AM
Registered User
 
kANAkSz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Pearl City Prefecture
Posts: 595
Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Thanks: 243
Thanked 207 Times in 169 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by that1guy View Post
is this right?
A quiccer way to do it without having to swap connection points on the actual headlight assembly is to just break the tabs on the signal stop and flip the stalk upside down.

Worked like a charm and flawlessly for me since Ive done this mod. No issues of it coming out and Oahu,Hawaii has some really bad roads.

Then again,if you feel better swapping points on the headlights then go for it,I contemplated it,but figured Id be better off breaking the tabs if I ever decided to sell my 6.

Couple questions though,are you trying to make a drl switchbacc or are you just trying to get the led signal to light up? Technically speaking,flipping the polarity will get your turn signal to work,but to make it an actual "switchbacc" you would need to wire up a power source to a relay and an extra connection on the signal stalk for the white side of the led to work.

Switching the pins on the assembly will only allow the turn signal part of the switchbacc to function only as a signal.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
kANAkSz is online now  
post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 02:44 AM
Registered User
 
that1guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by kANAkSz View Post
A quiccer way to do it without having to swap connection points on the actual headlight assembly is to just break the tabs on the signal stop and flip the stalk upside down.

Worked like a charm and flawlessly for me since Ive done this mod. No issues of it coming out and Oahu,Hawaii has some really bad roads.

Then again,if you feel better swapping points on the headlights then go for it,I contemplated it,but figured Id be better off breaking the tabs if I ever decided to sell my 6.

Couple questions though,are you trying to make a drl switchbacc or are you just trying to get the led signal to light up? Technically speaking,flipping the polarity will get your turn signal to work,but to make it an actual "switchbacc" you would need to wire up a power source to a relay and an extra connection on the signal stalk for the white side of the led to work.

Switching the pins on the assembly will only allow the turn signal part of the switchbacc to function only as a signal.
That sounds like a MUCH easier way of doing it. Thanks.
Right now I'm just gunna use em as signals until I have time to hook them up as drls as well

2005 6s GT ATX Sedan:
A&M SRI, grounded throttle body & tranny, Accel Coils, Baffled OCC
Morimoto 5.0 projectors, tinted sidemarkers & tails, led turn signals, 6000k 50w ddm tuning hids
that1guy is offline  
post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 03:48 AM
Registered User
 
kANAkSz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Pearl City Prefecture
Posts: 595
Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Thanks: 243
Thanked 207 Times in 169 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by that1guy View Post
That sounds like a MUCH easier way of doing it. Thanks.
Right now I'm just gunna use em as signals until I have time to hook them up as drls as well
Thats what I said when I believe Mralexsays suggested that. Cant remember if it was in his how to or in a separate post.

Essentially,theres 3 tabs that poke outwards on the stalk that you want to break off so that it can be flipped upside down and still be able to be wedged bacc in. If you pull the stalk out,you'll notice that theres like a triangle type point,that if installed correctly from factory will point down. After the tabs are broken the stalk will be installed with the triangular point facing up to reverse the polarity for the leds to work.

Hopefully you'll get around to wiring up the drl's or else you'd just have some very expensive turn signals.lol.

I,myslef,have been thru maybe 3 pairs of switchbaccs before finding a pair that closely matched the color of my parking/city lights. Each set before I believe only got used for like a couple weeks max before I found the ones Ive been running now.

1st set was some high power type 1 samsung led switchbaccs.Very frkn bright but the white didnt match my parking lights. 2nd set was a pair of superbrightleds 5k type 2s that also didnt match.3rd set was a pair of superbrightleds 6k type 1 that,unfortunately,did not match either.The current set Im running now are from ebay that I was luccy to find. It was an auction for 2 pairs of type 2 switchbacc COB leds with projector lens and well,it was as close a match I could find and was happy with. Matches my parking lights and custom made switchbacc sidemarkers almost perfectly.

So now I have 4 pairs of switchbaccs sitting in my trunk,in a ziploc bag,in a tool poccet of a tool bag for whatevers.lol.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
kANAkSz is online now  
post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 01:47 PM
Registered User
 
that1guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by kANAkSz View Post
Thats what I said when I believe Mralexsays suggested that. Cant remember if it was in his how to or in a separate post.

Essentially,theres 3 tabs that poke outwards on the stalk that you want to break off so that it can be flipped upside down and still be able to be wedged bacc in. If you pull the stalk out,you'll notice that theres like a triangle type point,that if installed correctly from factory will point down. After the tabs are broken the stalk will be installed with the triangular point facing up to reverse the polarity for the leds to work.

Hopefully you'll get around to wiring up the drl's or else you'd just have some very expensive turn signals.lol.

I,myslef,have been thru maybe 3 pairs of switchbaccs before finding a pair that closely matched the color of my parking/city lights. Each set before I believe only got used for like a couple weeks max before I found the ones Ive been running now.

1st set was some high power type 1 samsung led switchbaccs.Very frkn bright but the white didnt match my parking lights. 2nd set was a pair of superbrightleds 5k type 2s that also didnt match.3rd set was a pair of superbrightleds 6k type 1 that,unfortunately,did not match either.The current set Im running now are from ebay that I was luccy to find. It was an auction for 2 pairs of type 2 switchbacc COB leds with projector lens and well,it was as close a match I could find and was happy with. Matches my parking lights and custom made switchbacc sidemarkers almost perfectly.

So now I have 4 pairs of switchbaccs sitting in my trunk,in a ziploc bag,in a tool poccet of a tool bag for whatevers.lol.
haha. well at least u don't really hafta worry about running out of em.lol
thanks for all the help man, definitely appreciate it.
so just to get the drl part of it right, im supposed to: hook up a paper clip so that the white led terminal is sitting on it, then hook up a wire to the paper clip for power, to an add-a-fuse to turn on with ignition? sound somewhat right?lol

2005 6s GT ATX Sedan:
A&M SRI, grounded throttle body & tranny, Accel Coils, Baffled OCC
Morimoto 5.0 projectors, tinted sidemarkers & tails, led turn signals, 6000k 50w ddm tuning hids
that1guy is offline  
post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 03:13 PM
Registered User
 
kANAkSz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Pearl City Prefecture
Posts: 595
Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Thanks: 243
Thanked 207 Times in 169 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by that1guy View Post
haha. well at least u don't really hafta worry about running out of em.lol
thanks for all the help man, definitely appreciate it.
so just to get the drl part of it right, im supposed to: hook up a paper clip so that the white led terminal is sitting on it, then hook up a wire to the paper clip for power, to an add-a-fuse to turn on with ignition? sound somewhat right?lol
Thats one way of doing it,that was Oranges' way of doing things,but unfortunately for me,I dont have the patience to do that type of thing.lol.

I just went Alexs' route and bought a pair of dual contact 1157 bayonets from CustomLED.com and pretty much jus ripped and cut the oem contacts off,bored the center out to fit the new bayonet and wired it from there. The bayonets from customLED have 3 pigtails. Red I hooked to the power contact on the stalk and the ground to the ground contact point. The left over white wire is what will power the white side of the switchbacc.

So from the add-a-fuse line,which I tapped into the engine bar fuse,you run to points 86 and 30. 85 is your ground which would be run to your handbrake wire to be triggered when the handbrake is released. This is where a 5 pin relay with a NO/NC is required. The power wire for the white side of the switchbacc will be wired to 87a to turn on when the handbrake is released.

This is how I have mine setup buy also wired in with a 2nd relay to turn off when the headlights turn on. All is explained in MrAlexSays' how to.

Any more questions feel free to hmu thru here or PM. Happy to help a fellow 6er.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
kANAkSz is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome