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post #21 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

Quote:
Originally posted by Cromp


* * * * * * what is this power braking stuff with the AT?
Hold the gas and brake in at the same time, then when it's green let the brake go.

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post #22 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-15-2004, 01:23 PM
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

Quote:
Originally posted by mmarfan


Quote:
Originally posted by CivicTurboSi


wouldnt it be better to power brake the auto?
Doh! Forgot to add that one. Yes you can power brake it, it will achieve good results as well.
In a ery unscientific comparison on my 99 Protege with AT, I found that rather than power braking at 3K, if I take my foot off the brake pedal, hit the gas pedal half way through so that engine revs to 3K, the launch feels better.
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post #23 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-15-2004, 03:25 PM
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

Quote:
Burnout box is a waist of gas. Drive AROUND the water! (unless you're a showoff )
For non slicks this is true. Slicks you will want to do a burn out to warm up the tires.

Quote:
Hold the gas and brake in at the same time, then when it's green let the brake go.
Word of warning guys. Power braking, while not as bad for the car as neutural drop, creates a lot of strain on the car. I wouldn't advise you doing this very often, especially on a daily driver.
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post #24 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-15-2004, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

Quote:
Originally posted by kali9934


Quote:
Burnout box is a waist of gas. Drive AROUND the water! (unless you're a showoff )
For non slicks this is true. Slicks you will want to do a burn out to warm up the tires.

Quote:
Hold the gas and brake in at the same time, then when it's green let the brake go.
Word of warning guys. Power braking, while not as bad for the car as neutural drop, creates a lot of strain on the car. I wouldn't advise you doing this very often, especially on a daily driver.
Indeed, correct on both accounts. BUT if you're going to do it on slicks, get a limited slip differential, because you're very very likely to eather destroy your tranny or rip your axles right out.

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post #25 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-30-2004, 01:14 PM
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Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Another tip on drag racing...

I'll rip your axles right out with my teeth! I'm crazy!


I need to find a track around here, and some nitrous. ;)
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post #26 of 98 (permalink) Old 05-10-2004, 05:27 AM
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

Quote:
Originally posted by kali9934

Word of warning guys. *Power braking, while not as bad for the car as neutural drop, creates a lot of strain on the car. *I wouldn't advise you doing this very often, especially on a daily driver.
Like he said... power braking in an auto will burn up your torque converter.. do it enough and your car won't be moving... i guess it's analogous to burning up your clutch..

speaking of which...

here's some more 1/4 mile drag tips from the resident bimmerforums moderator with 18 years of experience.. this guy is amazing though...you'd have to read about all his experiences.. winning races he shouldn't have based on HP numbers.. but he does because he knows how to launch.. he touches on everything.. weight.. tire pressure.. etc.. etc.. .. btw.. the car he's talking about is gone.. he got a new car.. his old car was a blown 3.0 liter Z3 putting out 321.2 rwhp @ 6500; 290.3 lb-ft rwtq @ 4400.. oh.. and it's not mentioned in the thread.. but he managed 11.71 at 115.6 mph in that car.. for reference as to how well this guy launches.... the next closest Z3 1/4 mile time to him was a blown Mroadster at 420+ rwhp with a 1/4 mi time of 12.56 @ 127.08 mph ... he had about 100 rwhp less yet he's almost a full second faster in the 1/4 mi..


http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...ead.php?t=47538
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post #27 of 98 (permalink) Old 05-10-2004, 06:02 AM
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Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Another tip on drag racing...

oh, btw.. forgot to mention.. in case someone misses this and does try to use the tips.. bmw's are rear wheel drive cars.. not front wheel drive.. so when he talks about tire pressures and such.. apply the tip to the opposite wheel... (front or back)
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post #28 of 98 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 01:26 PM
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

mmarfan,

You asked how I did in the other thread, but that one was about ATX issues so I figured better to respond elsewhere.

Yes, I improved, but not by much. I managed a 15.5 @ 91.9. I'm stock except the Draxas exhaust which as we know doesn't exactly provide that much power do to the cats/precats still being in place.

These are my 5 runs:
Time - Trap - 60ft
15.8 - 88.9 - 2.5X
15.8 - 89.0 - 2.4X
15.7 - 89.8 - 2.4X
15.5 - 91.9 - 2.50
15.6 - 91.5 - 2.34

If I look at the 1000ft difference between my 15.6 and my 15.5, I noticed I was a whole 10th of a second better on the 15.5, which was a 13.2 1000ft.

Here's what I noticed about your car, you got a 12.5 on that 1000ft. THATs what I need to do! A whole 7 tenths? How can I get that?

I did manage a 2.3 60ft time as my final run. But I only ended up getting a 15.6 that run. What I'm thinking is happening on those 2.3 and 2.4 60fts, is that whatever I'm doing to get out of the box, might be making my first 60ft quicker, however, I think at the end of that 60ft, my RPMS are TOO low coming out of the box, so the shift to 2nd takes a bit longer. I just can't believe I can't get better. There was only 1 run where I missed a shift. At least I'm getting more consistent in that I'm not fucking up or spinning the tires through 1st. But I still can't get that perfect run!

My final question to you would be once you get that 2.2/2.3 60ft out of the box, how are high are your RPMs at that point. I've been trying to rev to 3K RPM and then feather the clutch out for a smooth but quick launch. I think I need to try a bit hard, but let the clutch do more of the work to curb wheel spin out of the box.
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post #29 of 98 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 02:16 PM
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Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Another tip on drag racing...

I think the key to those 1000' times is how well you use that clutch. You might be feather it just a bit too much losing a lot of power.

I'm not expert at drag racing at all, but I would think if you're feathering too much not only will you not be getting that full power to the wheels, but you'll redline sooner (if you still don't have the clutch fully engaged) and then get into 2nd too soon, losing every precious millisecond of 1st gear time.

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post #30 of 98 (permalink) Old 05-13-2004, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Replying to Topic 'Another tip on drag racing...'

Nice work on the 2.34 60' GreenNuggs!


My thoughts on the launch RPMs being low, I did notice that when I went to the track, it does bog slightly, and I think that is from the trottle lag. I guess the real trick is to be ahead of that laggy throttle, (mabee floor it 2 tenths or so before you would normally) and shift that thing as insanely quick as possible. Did you let it cool off between runs? That helps slightly.
I tried to vary my RPMs off the line on the start (between 2000 and 3000, I took it up to 3500 once... bad) but came up with the same boggy results, or wheel hop. I think my best 60' was only a 2.34 as well.
The 60' trap is about the top of first gear. I believe you usually hit it at 35 to 38mph. I usually run everything to the 7000 redline, because of the step up in gearing, so you make more power running it over peak instead of shifting at 6500. (plus you already know to leave it in 3ird and bump it off the redline at the finish)
Getting it 7 tenths quicker in the 1000... practice practice practice :D I know you can get it! Hey if you want an Injen intake for a pretty good price, PM me; it'll help out your exhaust.
You do want to slip the clutch on the launch (per the writup), but you pretty much want to drop it while shifting.
BTW what's your altitude at the track?

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