Ok Iím all done, well mostly. I have a few things to button up and to build a little amp rack but the main work part is done. For me I wanted to add more low end to the system. The Bose setup is nice but it lacks punch and like most folks, I wanted more bass. Not so much to draw attention like some do at a red light or whatever but just to make my music sound like it should. Iím a musician and IT guy on a budget.
I chose the parts based on a cost to performance ratio. The amp I used is a BOSS Riot 1100 monoblock. It was $50 on Amazon. Iíve used this amp in my little truck on a pair of 8Ē subs and it was very surprising so I went with the same thing in my car. I know itís a fonky cheapo amp but itís pretty freaking awesome for the money. Iíve had nice gear in many cars. JL, Focal, Polk etc so a good idea of what good sound is. This build is awesome for the money. You can also use this info and change out the components if you want better stuff. Letís be real here this is the one income household version. 😊
For the subs I went with two 10Ē Rockford Fosgate R2-D2 subs. These were chosen for the same reason affordable and good quality. A while back I helped a 16 yr old kid set up a budget system in his car and we bought these same subs and they were surprisingly nice so I went with them. I got a prefab box Belva BBX210BK from Sonicelectronix for $60 and had no issues with it getting here fast and undamaged.
The amp kit I got is from KnuKonceptz. Itís a 4gauge kit and has good stuff in it. I didnít notice that this kit was CCA power/ground instead of OFC but ohh well itís done and Iíll say the cables were very easy to manage and of high quality.
18 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex RED KCA Power Wire
3 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Black KCA Ground Wire
One inline fuse holder with 80A AGU Fuse
One 17 Foot Black Bassik RCA Cable
20 Feet Bassik Black 14 Gauge Speaker Wire
The LOC I used was Metra and bought from Oriely auto parts a mile away from my house.
Now for the install information.
Get an old blanket or cushion to kneel down on, my old knees thank me as I had to sit right outside my car for a while getting the power wire ran and the wire taps connected. The first thing I did was to decide where I was going to get the signal and remote wire from. Thanks to MZ6Alex for the awesome wire diagram and his wire identification notes. The diagram is in this thread a couple of comments up. This diagram gave me all the info I needed to get started.
I unbolted the passenger seat and decided to just lean it back instead of unplugging the seat connections and remove it totally. You will need a Torx socket to unbolt the seat. E12 is what you need.
Here is a picture of what the Bose amp and wiring harnessí look like and also took pics of all sides of the Bose amp for science. I have the model info and stuff from the label.
Notice my very helpful blanket/knee protector.
I decided to grab the signal from the plug that has the high output after amplification. This is the plug with the big red power wire that you can see clearly in the picture. I used the BR/SB and the Y/G wires to tap into from Alexís diagram.
Thatís the yellow/green pair and the blue/brown pair. I tested this signal on a coaxial speaker I had and I can confirm by ear that the signal is full range. Even though these sets of wires go to the door subs, they had lows and highs. This means there must be a passive crossover for the door subs I guess. The wires are taped together in the pairs that go to each speaker which is nice. I removed that tape to give me space for the blue taps.
The way they wrapped the wires for each plug is to wrap them separately with a canvas type flex loom and they taped it closed periodically with fancy high-grade electrical tape. Be careful and cut the tape and peel back the canvas loom to give you some room to work. Try to stagger your taps if possible so that they fit back inside the loom.
I used the purple wire (1 of 2 so get the right one) on the green middle harness to get the remote power turn on. I checked with a multi meter and it worked as expected. SCORE! Also, the wire is pretty thin but the blue wire taps worked with no issue. I did consider getting this from the fusebox since itís right by the power wire but I could not find a good fuse that works like you would expect, only when the car is on. They were all always hot or at least from my 5-minute check with the multi meter but I digress.
I routed these wires to the LOC and used double side tape to stick the LOC to the top side of the plate that the Bose amp is mounted on. The LOC I have had a ground wire you can use if you have engine noise but I did not need/use it. I taped up my loop with the taps in line and moved on to the next step.
I tested that everything still works before I moved to the power wire install. For the power wire I used the rubber boot behind the steering wheel to get through the fire wall. Remove the car battery and you will see a rubber boot going into the cab behind the steering wheel. Go under the steering wheel in the cab and un-tape the electrical tape holding the boot around the wire bundle. It kinda opens up like a flower. See my blue coat hanger going right through it...
If you look close from under the hood you will see a little knobby tit thing on the boot. If you use some dikes you can snip the end of that little tit off and you will see a clear path to the inside of the car. (this was by far the easiest punch through the firewall that Iíve ever used on any car) I had a helper shine the light from in the engine compartment at the hole in the boot that I just snipped and I could see the light perfectly from inside the car. (while upside down under the steering wheel) Stick a coat hanger right through that hole from inside the car into the engine bay. I chose to go from inside the car into the engine bay to minimize how much wire I had to push/pull through that tight fit on the rubber boot. I pulled about 2 feet through. Now remember this hole is about 1/8 inch or 5mm wide so if you are running thick 4-gauge power wire you might have to use some lube to get that fat wire through the tiny hole. I used a few drops of Dawn soap and I was able to get it through without an issue. Just be sure to wrap your power lead around the straightened coat hanger and tape it up real good. Use the tape to make a tapered end to make it easier to push though.
Next, I taped up the boot inside the car (see blue electrical tape) and flapped the insulation back into place and I ran the power cable behind some electronics and fuse box then down the door sill towards the trunk.
I tucked it behind the middle side pillar and continued through the back door sill.
To get the wire through the back seat area and into the truck, I pulled the plastic cover between the seat and the door up to see where the clips were and snapped them free.
I used a phish rod (very handy item) to get the power cable through the side deck panel and into the trunk. Once you are into the trunk you can do what I did or come out anywhere else. I chose to go all the way back to the corner behind the tail light. Form there I sliced an H in the carpet next to the storage compartment and pushed the wire through. I found a screw with a 10mm nut on the frame near the tail light and sanded it down with 80g sandpaper and mounted my ground there. I put a little WD-40 on that sanded area after I made the ground connection so that is doesnít oxidize since Iím in the dirty south with high humidity.
My plan is to make a board like this guy on youtube.
But that will have to wait for tomorrow.
Now you will need to run the remote turn on and the RCA cables. (and bass knob if you have one. I forgot to run mine) I ran them from my LOC mounted to the plate by the Bose amp and the REM wire from the green plug on the Bose harness (see above), down the door sill just like the power wire except on the passenger side of the car. I pulled up the carpet by the Bose amp and door sill and tucked the REM and RCA cables and proceeded to the trunk in the same manner as the other side. I crossed over the trunk under the carpet by the spare tire and came out near where my power wire is. The cables in my kit were the perfect length and there is no stress on any cables. As you can see, the ground wire I used doesnít match. I had one from my 2014 M6 install and it already had a ring terminal on it so I used that one.
Well thatís all for tonight. Hopefully this will give someone information and help execute their install smoothly. I did a little testing and itís just what I was looking for. Itís a very noticeable and itís a much better upgrade to the bass. I will say that if you are trying to beat down the block, youíll need a bigger better amp and or subs but this is perfect for any sensible adult. Letís run the price numbers.
Subs: $120 to both
Torx kit: $25
Thatís a little over $300
Stuff I already had: Sockets, razor, electrical tape, wire cutter/crimpers, pliers, wire taps, phish sticks, time.
I started this job today at 10am and finished around 8pm. While not the fastest install, I do think it was done with attention to detail and done well. Sure, I could have built a perfect box (for about the same price) and used some other components for higher bragging rights, but Iím happy with the end result. (almost end result.) I did a bass test sweep and it seems like the subs roll off around 37 Hz. Maybe tapping in on the signal input instead of the Bose output would be better but this might also be the box Iím using but Iím not going to re do the signal point just on a might be better. Itís fine as is. Still, itís 100 times better than without the sub upgrade. More to come with pics after I get that amp board done.