Blown Bose speaker - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Blown Bose speaker

Well, I had a bad vibration on the passenger side door when I was playing music. So I took the door panel off because I figured something was vibrating and I found that it was vibrating bad in the speaker. Anybody know where to get a new one or how to fix?


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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 03:23 PM
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Besides going to your dealer?

Couldn't tell you the brand or if it's possible to get another one from elsewhere. Knowing the cost of OEM speaker parts, you might be better off just getting a pair of new ones for your front doors.

The speakers *might* be available somewhere else, but I can't say for sure, sorry.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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If I replaced the front two, how would I get something that sounds the same, is the front one a sub/speaker combo? It sounds like it has normal sound coming out but it also has bass?


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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 04:29 PM
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Is this Bose?


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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 04:58 PM
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Is this Bose?


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Yes, at $137. The speaker for us non-Bose plebs costs all of $19 lol
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 11:22 AM
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I know it's 6 months later but i had the same problem- bad vibration passenger side door speaker.

I took the speaker out and found that the smaller rubber cone detached from the metal frame and was causing the viration. So i cleaned the cone and frame and glued the cone back on and solved the problem.

I just hope the glue holds!!!!!
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 08:38 PM
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@Jimzap What glue did you use? Did you research which glues are best for this repair? I've got the same issue, speaker distortion in my driver's side door, removed speaker, see the softball sized flat rear almost cone is about 40% detached from the metal - which caused my distortion. Did you have full separation or like me was it partial? I'm thinking of gently forcing a full separation so I ensure I get glue 100% around, but I'd welcome your feedback, thanks. Especially since your last post was 18+ months ago.

Upon deeper investigation this is due to moisture. I can see that the rubber cone is still firmly attached to the paint that was on the under side of the metal frame and a distinct rust color can be seen between the paint and the metal - cheap Bose crap, should have been powder coated and not painted, would have prevented the rust - would have helped if Mazda would have put a plastic sheet behind the speaker to block it from external moisture. I took my speaker out after driving home and rain that day. After you take the speaker out you can see into the door cavity and the backside of the door sheet metal - it was wet from the rain, I'm guessing some spray up from the road and some down in from the window, though I kept the window shut all day. There is a drain hole in the door directly underneath the speaker - poor design choices by Mazda. In older cars that I've taken the door panels off of they usually have plastic to help keep that moisture away from the speakers and other stuff in the door. The power window stuff is all separated from the door cavity via plastic, so I might try to glue some in at least around the back side of the speaker hole - otherwise I can see this happening again, I'll likely take the other doors apart and put plastic in.

I am thinking super glue might work fine since I'm trying to reattach basically paint or a very thin layer of metal to itself - vs. that rubber speaker cone to the metal again.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2017, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by slickriven View Post
@Jimzap What glue did you use? Did you research which glues are best for this repair? I've got the same issue, speaker distortion in my driver's side door, removed speaker, see the softball sized flat rear almost cone is about 40% detached from the metal - which caused my distortion. Did you have full separation or like me was it partial? I'm thinking of gently forcing a full separation so I ensure I get glue 100% around, but I'd welcome your feedback, thanks. Especially since your last post was 18+ months ago.

Upon deeper investigation this is due to moisture. I can see that the rubber cone is still firmly attached to the paint that was on the under side of the metal frame and a distinct rust color can be seen between the paint and the metal - cheap Bose crap, should have been powder coated and not painted, would have prevented the rust - would have helped if Mazda would have put a plastic sheet behind the speaker to block it from external moisture. I took my speaker out after driving home and rain that day. After you take the speaker out you can see into the door cavity and the backside of the door sheet metal - it was wet from the rain, I'm guessing some spray up from the road and some down in from the window, though I kept the window shut all day. There is a drain hole in the door directly underneath the speaker - poor design choices by Mazda. In older cars that I've taken the door panels off of they usually have plastic to help keep that moisture away from the speakers and other stuff in the door. The power window stuff is all separated from the door cavity via plastic, so I might try to glue some in at least around the back side of the speaker hole - otherwise I can see this happening again, I'll likely take the other doors apart and put plastic in.

I am thinking super glue might work fine since I'm trying to reattach basically paint or a very thin layer of metal to itself - vs. that rubber speaker cone to the metal again.
That won't work, the back wave of the speaker will excite the plastic and rattle like crazy. You're probably thinking of vapor barrier, which is a cheesy way to "seal" a door but extremely common. The problem with vapor barriers is they aren't behind the speaker, they are behind the door panel in between the door card or door plastic, and door metal. Mazda uses a really nice reinforced plastic panel to do the job of this so the bass response (once the door is deadened) is superior in every way.

BTW you can take an XTC foam baffle, cut it so it forms a shield around the speaker, and prevent water damage to the driver. Alternately, there are a select few aftermarket brands that purposely built their speakers to survive the harsh door conditions. Stereo Integrity is one i know (has a shield on one side), and Audio Frog is another (was made to be essentially weatherproof, and sound amazing. There are others, but those are two recent ones to mind. A good example of a failure is my really expensive Image Dynamics I had in my other vehicle, they started getting coil scraping noises because rust particles invaded the coil gap. The rust was coming from the speaker itself! Fail, and only about a year old.

When you are in those doors, deaden! And use something like 1/4" neoprene sheet to decouple the door panel from the door metal. Huge gains from that.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2017, 10:34 AM
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I had exactly the same problem on my preowned GT. I've cleaned rust as much as possible with rust cleaner/killer and glued it back with rubber glue. After that, I've generously applied hot glue on top of first ring of rubber that attaches to metal. I don't think it has affected the quality of sound and now it can withstand high volume and bass vibrations. This setup holds fine for more than a year now.
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