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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow Adding amp and sub to 2014 6 with Bose

I'll be adding an amp and sub to my 1 month old 2014 GT 6 soon. Finding info on the GT 6 WITH Bose is not that easy to find so I'll be using this thread for my updates. (unless I'm in the wrong section) I did see a great write up on a NON Bose 6.

**rewind** So I had a 2012 3 hatchback without Bose and I added a 6 channel JL amp to run the entire system. i used this harness to gain RCA's for front and read with power turn on an did not have to cut any wires. PAC AOEM-MAZ2
PAC AOEM-MAZ2 (aoemmaz2) Interface that Allows Replacement or

The system sounded excellent with Focal speakers and it looked totally stock.

Today I removed the head unit in my new 6 to see if the harness plugs matched up and to my surprise it does. The plug goes between the HU and the car wiring so I will get signal before the Bose processing takes place which makes me happy. I'll try to do a test run this wknd by putting the amp on my shop table so i don't have to run the power all the way to the trunk just in case the results are undesirable etc..

I wanted to share this harness interface with everyone since I didn't see the Bose system compatibility for the 2014 6. Also I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts to share about this setup.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-08-2014, 05:08 PM
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Do the factory adapter plugs have a wire in every pin location or at least a wire for every factory wire? I don't see why this wouldn't work if it does. It may have to be modified because you don't need the LOC module. You could just hard wire the RCAs to the LOC input wires. Looking forward to your outcome. I'm looking to do this same thing very soon.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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I did my bench test yesterday and it all works just like it did in my 2012 M3. This is a great plug and play alternative to cutting wires. I'm excited now i don't think I can wait till saturday to run the power wires.
PS, you can see my review of that device on the website where I linked it above. That was my M3 review, i'll do a M6 GT review after it's all done.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 09:43 AM
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That's excellent for those who simply want to add amplification (which, as soon as you start changing speakers to those with better range you do, because the better ones tend toward lower sensitivity) and have no desire to swap the head unit.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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In my instance I'll be adding a JL XD 600/1 and a Focal SB 27 V1 sub. This should be an easy way to add that little bit of punch to the low end of the system. Also I should be able to keep the bass level on the HU about 25% to keep the mids from distorting.

I'm not going to change the stock Bose speakers or fiddle with the stock Bose amp. Just adding a little bass.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 02:28 PM
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Swapping out the BOSE speakers for something else is a bad idea, already tried that... doesn't sound nearly as good. Keep us posted, I had major issues with the power system and my amp which was a lot less powerful than the one you are using.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotydlux View Post
In my instance I'll be adding a JL XD 600/1 and a Focal SB 27 V1 sub. This should be an easy way to add that little bit of punch to the low end of the system. Also I should be able to keep the bass level on the HU about 25% to keep the mids from distorting.

I'm not going to change the stock Bose speakers or fiddle with the stock Bose amp. Just adding a little bass.
I would concur with this; the Bose system is almost-certainly tuned in AMP frequency response to account for the specific speakers, and swapping them is unlikely to lead to good places.

Adding a sub should be ok.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 06:29 PM
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When doing your test did you keep the LOC in line? There is really no reason to since the outputs of the stereo are already low level, but I was wondering if it effected the signal any if you did leave it in.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black07 View Post
When doing your test did you keep the LOC in line? There is really no reason to since the outputs of the stereo are already low level, but I was wondering if it effected the signal any if you did leave it in.
Hey Black, I'm not sure I know what you mean. Here is what I did.

I pulled my car up close to a table in my garage and set the amp on the table. I ran power to it and grounded the amp to the frame near the battery. I installed the PAC adapter in my car and removed the glove box so I could get to it. Then I ran the power turn on and RCA's from the PAC to the amp on the table. Then I put a sub woofer in an ported box and put it on the ground and connected it to the amp.

I played some music and turned the gain up and down on the amp, revd the engine a little to see if I had noise. It worked great.
I am a little concerned about the power draw factor after reading other peeps say that our alternators aren't that big. I'll be mounting the amp in the trunk so if i need to add a cap i'll have space for it. Otherwise I would just put it under the passenger seat like I had in my other car.

I couldn't get to it yet but I'm really ready to get it done.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 10:41 AM
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As I noted in the other thread I wish people would cite an actual source on that "poor charging system" claim. The published spec I found was 150A for the alternator, which is 50% larger than nearly everything else that is gas-powered on the road today.

2014 Mazda MAZDA6 Technical Specifications - DriverSide.com

I haven't removed mine and gotten a part number off it to verify this, but that's the best info we have until and unless someone does that -- and it certainly does not imply that there's a problem in this regard.
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